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Okay, boys, I'm back. I am starting to get drops of oil on my left shoe while I ride. Looks like it's coming from the left side of the timing belt cover as there is some leakage evident. Any suggestions? I don't think it's the belts themselves as there isn't any oil in there. I read on a post at one time about a replacement seal kit but I can't remember what seals they were talking about or where located on the bike.

Ruaidh
 

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Could be the cam seals,behind the belts would mean taking the covers, belts,and pulleys off.
 

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There are three seals, one each for the camshafts and the crankshaft. You might want to take a look in there before a real mess develops. If indeed one of those seals has begun to go, it couldn't be good for the belts to get well oiled. It shouldn't be more than a matter of pulling the offending pulley, picking out the offending seal and tapping a new one in.
 

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*sigh* Yeah, kind of what I was thinking after reading more posts. Are these a dealer only part or is there a chance of picking them up elsewhere? If I'm getting that far into it I'm doing the belts too.
 

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If the belts got oiled and aren't nearly new, I'd replace them. Probably the quickest way to get the seals would be from Honda unless someone here knows aother source. I'm sure they are pretty standard seals, but cross referencing can be a bear sometimes.
 

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Thanks, Paul. I know they cross-reference the belts with Gates and NAPA and I think I can get them about $15 ea. but wasn't sure on the seals. I'll have to see if I can find some tomorrow.
 

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Before you buy anything to fix the leak I would wash off any oily residue with varsol, then soap and water, rinse it then dry it completely and go for a ride.

Those oil leaks can be deceptive because a bad shifter seal can allow oil to migrate up to the cylinder head at speed and capillary attraction can make the same oil leakflow toward the timing cover.

A bad valve cover gasket can also drip oil onto your shoes.

Vic
 

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Thanks for the suggestion Vic. I first noticed the leak as I was changing the oil 4-5 days ago and it actually, while stopped and on the side stand, had 3-4 small drops fall from the bottom edge of the timing belt cover. I had warmed the engine for the oil change but it was stopped at the time. No drips while stopped since, but tell-tale drops on shoes, etc.

On the left side timing belt cover there is a little seepage about 1-2 inches along the bottom edge of the belt cover. The sort you would see from an older engine trying to tell you that the gaskets/seals are old.

(Gee, I wonder why that would be... :baffled:)

Ruaidh
 

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Additionally, I was looking for a former post that had instructions and pics to replace the belts on an '85 Aspencade that included some comments about securing something inside the engine (?!?) so it wouldn't fall down while the belts were off (I may be completely confused here!) but now I cannot find it. I guess it's time to get Eeyore up on the lift and start pulling things apart. Too bad there aren't any closer "friends" that felt obligated to stop by and tell me which way to turn the wrench.

Sometimes it seems like I am trying to do these things with mittens on or rented fingers...

Ruaidh
 

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Ruaidh wrote:
Additionally, I was looking for a former post that had instructions and pics to replace the belts on an '85 Aspencade that included some comments about securing something inside the engine (?!?) so it wouldn't fall down while the belts were off (I may be completely confused here!) but now I cannot find it. I guess it's time to get Eeyore up on the lift and start pulling things apart. Too bad there aren't any closer "friends" that felt obligated to stop by and tell me which way to turn the wrench.

Sometimes it seems like I am trying to do these things with mittens on or rented fingers...
You can handle this Ruadh, just take your time and be gentle on the parts.

Remove the spark plugs.

Remove the timing inspectionwindow.

Drain the coolant and remove the radiator.

Remove the timing covers.

Turn the crankshaft with a wrench until the T1 mark shows up in the timing window.

Check the alignment of the belts by having the crank at the T1 position, the cam pulleydots aligned with the inner timing covernotches and UP marked on the cam pulleys facing upward. This will show you if the beltsare installed correctly and help you become familiar with the alignment markings.

Once that's done you can start removing the belts;

Remove the lower pulse generator.

Loosen the tensioner pulley bolts.

The left side (as you sit on the bike)cam pulley will remain stationary when you remove the belt. The right side cam pulley will rotate counter clockwise about half a tooth when the belt is removed. Do not turn the crankshaft to match up the marks and make the belt go into place. Turn the cam pulley clockwise to align the marks as you slip the new belt into place, then install the right side belt.

To adjust the belt tension turn the right side cam pulley approximately half a tooth clockwise and allow the tensioner's spring to place tension on the belt then gently push the tensioner into the belt just enough to overcome any stiction at the tensioner plate then tighten the bolt. Adjust the left side belt by gently pushing the tensioner into the belt slightly and tighten the bolt. If the belts are too tight they will make a whining noise when the engine runs.

Now, using a good light and getting your self into a position where you can eye the timing marks, make sure they lign up as they should.

Rotate the engine gently by hand until the T1 mark ligns up again and double check the alignment of the marks. While rotating the engine if you feel any mechanical resistance DO NOT push past it. Turn back and find out where you misaligned the marks, otherwise you'll bend valves requiring cylinder head removal to repair.

If all the marks lign up reinstall the parts you removed and fill the bike up with new coolant and water mix.

When you have the belts off spin the tensioners by hand to check for bearing noise or roughness, replace if bad.

DO NOT crush the new belts together as you could damage them if you allow the radius to become smaller than one inch. The internal cords will actually break and render the belt useless.

Good luck and let us know how it runs after you get her all fixed up.

Vic
 

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Ruaidh wrote:
Additionally, I was looking for a former post that had instructions and pics to replace the belts on an '85 Aspencade that included some comments about securing something inside the engine (?!?) so it wouldn't fall down while the belts were off (I may be completely confused here!) but now I cannot find it. I guess it's time to get Eeyore up on the lift and start pulling things apart. Too bad there aren't any closer "friends" that felt obligated to stop by and tell me which way to turn the wrench.

Sometimes it seems like I am trying to do these things with mittens on or rented fingers...

Ruaidh
I think what you are refering to is the gear for the starter, and not letting that fall into the engine when the starter is changed. the cam belts are pretty staright forward



rodger
 

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rcmatt007, Ive got the starter out on a GL1200 engine sitting on my workbench and try as I might I can't get the gear to fall out of place.

Now, if the Earth's gravity reversed it might make for a different story, but, from what I see before my eyes it would take some kind of magic for that gear to simply fall out of place because gravity holds it into the chain which is held in place by rear cover and there is just no room for the gear to go any place else.

I think what people misunderstand about that starter gear is that you have to grease the o ring on the nose of the starter before installation, then wiggle the starter around quite a bit before it drops into the splines on the gear.

I have changed GL1100 and GL1200 starters on several occasions and always did so while the bike wason the centerstand.

Please prove me wrong so I don't misinform other Wingers.

Vic
 

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I stand corrected. I have not changed a starter, I have just heard people say that the gear can slide into the engine



now, I have taken off a lot of transmssion covers
 

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Goldwinger 1984, I think it might be worth storing up a few of these processes such as belt timing and brake caliper overhauling in a file onthe computer. That way it would be just a matter of pasting the data into a reply form instead of typing each time.
 

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Good idea Paul. Maybe we could ask Steve if he would want to start a new forum called The Gold Wing Maintenance Library. In that library we could have bona fide tech info that is accurate and proven. What we could possibly dois to first post the maintenance topic on the Tech Forum and get all the responses we can from everyone who has performed each individual procedure. Then once the posts that are not accurate or workable are weeded out they would then be pasted into the library. These would be filed under categories for GL1000's, 1100's, 1200's 1500's and GL1800's.

This woul;d weed out false theories and leave only workable and accurateprocedures that we could rely on for Gold Wing maintenance and repair.

So many very unique and intelligent people out herehave so many different ways of doingmaintenance and repair tasks on Gold Wingsthat we maygain a lot of new info through the library.

Might be too much work for Steve alone, but, if some of the more dedicated members were willing to spend some time sifting through posts to find all the best ones it might work.

Once it was all archived and locked it would make things so much easier than typing up new answers each time we respond to a new post.

Any additional suggestions and comments on how this could be accomplished are very much welcome and appreciated by newbies, members and GURU's alike.

Of course, Steve would have to approve everything before any changes could be made.

What's your opinion Steve?

Vic
 

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I noticed this as I was browsing the forum for the first time. I just bought a GL1000 a few months ago with the left side covered with oil and crud. The culprit was the left fork seal. I was amazed at the amount of oil and crud collected, even though the oil volume in the fork was very little depleated. The mess went all the way back to the rear wheel. Replacing the seals fixed it quick! I don't know about the 1200, but my old 1000 lets me pull the left belt cover without pulling the radiator. Just have to be patient and protect the radiator fins. They even make a special tool for removing the inner bolts on 1100s and 1200s.
 

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Goldwinger1984 wrote:
Good idea Paul. Maybe we could ask Steve if he would want to start a new forum called The Gold Wing Maintenance Library. In that library we could have bona fide tech info that is accurate and proven. What we could possibly dois to first post the maintenance topic on the Tech Forum and get all the responses we can from everyone who has performed each individual procedure. Then once the posts that are not accurate or workable are weeded out they would then be pasted into the library. These would be filed under categories for GL1000's, 1100's, 1200's 1500's and GL1800's.

This woul;d weed out false theories and leave only workable and accurateprocedures that we could rely on for Gold Wing maintenance and repair.

So many very unique and intelligent people out herehave so many different ways of doingmaintenance and repair tasks on Gold Wingsthat we maygain a lot of new info through the library.

Might be too much work for Steve alone, but, if some of the more dedicated members were willing to spend some time sifting through posts to find all the best ones it might work.

Once it was all archived and locked it would make things so much easier than typing up new answers each time we respond to a new post.

Any additional suggestions and comments on how this could be accomplished are very much welcome and appreciated by newbies, members and GURU's alike.

Of course, Steve would have to approve everything before any changes could be made.

What's your opinion Steve?

Vic
I'm game for this, as I mentioned in the General forum (I didn't read your post her Vic until just now).
 

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Time to close this one out; problem solved.

Grabbed the new camshaft pulley seals ($17 ea.) , two new NAPA belts ($15 ea.) and some fresh coolant ($9/gal.) and went to work yesterday. Got a late start (Noon) and followed the Clymers Manual (had to pull hte radiator because I have such fat hands...) and a quick (?!?) 8 hours later I had it done. I know next time will go faster as I've been down this road before. Really hoping there isn't a next time or at least not for a long time, LOL.

No more leaking oil, no belt noises at all although when I got inside I found one new belt and one old belt (hmmmmm...) so I am glad I did this now. I also found that Dexcool antifreeze contains no silicates!

This morning it was a sweet 58 F. and I didn't want to stop at work. Looking forward to my next run; maybe the Veterans Memorial in WY in August...

Thanks to all you guys for all the help!

Ruaidh
 

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Glad to hear it worked out for you!
 
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