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I just recently bought a 1981 Goldwing with 26,000 miles on the clock. I havereplaced the timing belts, front fork seals, water pump and the twoo-rings on the water pump because of coolant leaking from the weep hole,probablydue totheprevious ownerusing the wrong coolant. After the new water pump & o rings were installed, I took transmission cover back off and replaced transcover gasket & 2 smallo-rings in each corner of the cover. Now I have oildripping from the weep hole of the water pump. What would be the next thing to check? I'm really stumped by this. Don't know if the problem is the water pump or o-rings. Can someone advise me? :(
 

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Hi & welcome from Halifax, NS Canada! A much more knowledgeable guru will be along soon, but in the meantime...did you replace the oil seal on the water pump drive shaft?

Also, many times coolant weeping from the weep hole can indicate the pump bearings themselves are worn out....was there any play at all if you wiggle the impeller?

I believe oil can also leech out if the bearings are toast along with an oil seal.

Stay tuned for more info...Dave
 

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My 1200 was showing the same symptoms. I was hoping that it was just the rear oring. It was bad bearings in the pump. If you replace the pump. The orings and gaskets kit does not include the mechanical seal on the shaft from the oil pump that also turns the water pump.......... order that seal also. An easy check is to remove the water pump front cover only. This is the cover the lower hose connects to. You will see the water pump impeller in there. If you can wiggle the impeller.... your toast.

Hope this makes sense...... best of luck to you.
 

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Only a couple of places; the crush washers on the three bolts that hold the p[ump in place, the oil seal that the shaft goes though or the o rings that seals the pump against the casing..and that gets my vote easy to pinch it while installing anew pump..
 

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There are a total of SIX O-rings to replace whenever you pull your cover, and that's if you don't replace the water pump. There are the two shown on the parts diagram, two around the collets, one on the oil pump, and a small 7.8x1.9 oring that goes around the dowel pin on the upper left of the cover (left from a seated position on the bike, right if you are looking from the front). Randakk's site gives a good description with photos (www.randakks.com). If you lose the small o-ring (7.8x1.9) you will get coolant and oil mixing.
 

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I actually went through this exact thing and became very proficient at removing the transmission cover due to finding new leaks on my 82 aspencade. One of the places mine leaked oil from after the reinstall was the small o-ring on the pump. If the ring doesn't have perfect dimensions(which could vary bike to bike even though it shouldn't) then when you tighten the bolts down, it won't compress the o-ring to get a good seal. I coated this ring with silicone because I was frustrated on a sunday night and sure enough, it worked. Also, did you change the oil seal between the water pump and oil pump?
 

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I am going to order a new set of o-rings and a new set of sealing washers that go on the bolts I did not replace the washers the first time. The new water pump had a new oil seal and bearings already installed on the pump.
 

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The oil seal that everyone is talking about is the one the shaft of the water pump goes through where it hooks up to the oil pump.
True, there is a new seal that is installed on the pump, but the oil seal is pressed into the engine andit can be a slight pita to remove. That is the one that more than likely needs to be replaced and is allowing oil into the water cavity.
It is also very easy to bugger up the seal lip when putting the pump back in. All it takes is a tiny nick on the lip and oil can come through. When you put the cover back on, be sure to put some grease on the end of the water pump shaft and make sure you have sanded off any sharp edges or burrs on the water pump shaft. Also be careful to put the cover back in as straight as you can so the pump shaft won't put too much sideways stress on the seal lip.
Hope this helps.
Jim(inSC)
 

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Thanks for the advise. I did not replace the oil seal that is stamped in the block some of the people that I talked to did not talk about the replacment of this seal . What is the easiest way to get the old seal out and put the new one in . I have not done this and if it comes out easy enough I have to also replace the oil seal that the shifter rod goes in because of oil leak.I have not seen a thread about the replacement of oil seals. Thanks.
 

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you can pop it out with a proper sized flathead screwdriver. just be careful not to nick the case or gouge the o-ring seat around the outside of the seal hole. it will destroy the seal to remove this way but it will come out.
 
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