[red_bike]

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I left the house a little before 5 this morning heading to a PGR mission about 100 miles away. About 20 mins out my oil light came on for a sec or two then went out. A few mins later it flashed again so I turned back and headed home. I was running about 63 mph with the cruise on and was turning about 27k RPMs. On the way back home it never came on and I ran about the same speed. I had changed the oil last week and had only rode it a few short places since changing it and the light had never came on until this morning. Now that it’s light outside, I have checked the oil level and it is fine and there is no leak showing. So what do you guys think, where do I start looking?
This is a GL1500 with about 45,000 miles.

 

[DaveO430]

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What filter did you put on it?

 

[red_bike]

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Honda oil filter.

 

[satan]

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If your level is fine (between the lines on the stick without the stick screwed in, and measured warm/hot after a few minutes allowing of oil to settle)... You may wana look at the dipstick for oil condition immediately after shutting down, looking for foaming or emulsification

You may wanna verify pressures in the case (11psi hot idle & 18psicold idle) to kinda validate that the pressure switch is correct to turn on the lamp.

Personally, I would "skip" ahead a bit and since this happened after an oil change assume that there's some contamination or copromised oil -- I'd add a solvent cleaner to the crankcase oil for no less than 30-minutes of run time (not beating on it) then re-do the oil and filter change. My hopes would be that a quick flush and hot oil change would remove/reduce any contamination on the pickup screen, the relief-valve, remove contamination among other things like assuring that the filter and oil are above reproach.

Doubting the pressure-switch is a good first step, just not the easiest or cheapest (depending on oil/filter & disposal costs), and I would definitly measure the actual case pressure just to be certain... you can measure the oil pressure at the port used by the oil pressure switch (remove lower cowling and right-side lower fairing; Oil Pressure switch is just to the 'center' from the right-side horn) the relief valve should open at about 70 or 71psi (you should get this pressure before you redline the tach)

Repairs to the pump, strainer, and or loose bearings will involve pulling the engine to split the case... And typically, the internals will not be your issue.

 

[red_bike]

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Would the solvent cleaner be seafoam, if so how much should I put in before taking a 30 min ride?

 

[red_bike]

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Okay, my bad, my bad and I mean MY BAD. One of the guys at our church used to have a 1500 and when he sold his bike he had a few things left over and I bought them at the church yard sale, one of the things in that box was a Fram oil filter. When I ordered my plugs, air filters and so on back in March, I also got several Honda oil filters. Well somehow the fram oil filter ended up on the shelf with the other oil filters. I must not have looked at the filter when I grabbed one to change my oil because I just went out and looked, and there is a fram on the bike. I laid there and realized that I must have put the fram on the shelf.
So, could that fram oil filter cause this problem? I am thinking of putting some seafoam in, taking a ride, buy more oil and change it again ....using a honda filter.

 

[satan]

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Oil pressure for the bike is measured AFTER the filter, with the filter being pressurized directly from the pump. For the filter to be an isue, it would have to be pretty severly blocked with a bad bypass valve...

.. stranger things have happened, and age / contamination at the filter conntribute to other issues certainly.

Seafoam in the case is a 1.5oz/qt of oil so 6oz is the "normal" dosing for the 1500 -- I go a bit heavy-handed thinking that stronger concentrations will help more, and knowing that the SF won't be in the case for very long (their website indicates that the 1.5oz/qt dosing could be left in for the entire oil lifespan --- not me!).

 

[JerryH]

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Fram oil filters are JUNK!!!. I know of 2 engines DESTROYED by Fram oil filters. One was a Kawasaki Voyager XII engine, on another forum, and one was one of my companies vans. Both filters were COMPLETELY plugged from the factory. I would never ever, consider putting a Fram oil filter on ANYTHING. Yes, I have used them. I guess I got lucky. But no more. If anybody has one or more, please throw them away. If you have one on your bike or car, please change it now. Hopefully if the light only came on for a few seconds, it did not damage the engine. All the moving parts of a running engine are coated with oil, and can survive for several seconds without damage with no oil pressure.

 

[ceasefire49]

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Yep Got to agree with Jerry Here on this one. But I think everyone knows that. Went to the randak adapter on mine now I use WIX or Napa Gold(Wix) only.

 

[tlbranth]

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Never had a problem with Fram filters. Been using them on cars for probably 40 years.

 

[Mr Magic Fingers]

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+1 with Tlbranth,



I have used them in all my cars and bikes over the years. You hear one horror story and then it gets multiplied a gazillion times. Bad news travels better than good news. Too many people jump on the bashing ban wagon. It starts riots!!



I doubt it is your filter. Have a look at your oil screen.



Tim.

 

[red_bike]

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I did a search but could not find anything telling me how to look at my oil screen so I am asking, how do I do that?

 

[BHAZLET]

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Check out this video of Wix vs Fram. Which one would you buy. I would like to see the inside of a Honda filter.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNDpzyu0aWE&feature=player_detailpage

 

[satan]

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red_bike wrote:

I did a search but could not find anything telling me how to look at my oil screen so I am asking, how do I do that?

The pickup screen (intake for the pump) would require splitting the case.



I've had some luck using a modified filter casingto back-flush the screen, but the 'goop' you flush off is only pushed into the pan... which isn't really a pan ...



Kinda why the "flush, change, &pray" approach from above :congrats:

 

[red_bike]

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Thanks Satan, that is the only way I could think of to check it but wanted to make sure I was not missing something.

 

[DaveO430]

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Get rid of the fram and your problem will be solved. That was what I was getting at when I asked what filter.

 

[machinehead]

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Fram is the biggest supplier out there and i mean by the millions , but **** happens now and then even with good quality control. There are now many sub types of filters for each particular engine so now you can spend a few bucks for a "standard" filter all the way up to three times the price for a "synthetic oil" type that is very heavy duty to stand up to the longer oil change intervals that synthetic oils provide. The micron pass specs. are printed on each box and its up to you to decide which is best for you.
I wouldnt doubt that the Honda filter is also built by Fram ! Would be interesting to find out .
To determin your motors health i would follow satans advise and flush the motor then install an oil pres. gauge as he descibes , this will provide an absolute indicator of your oil pres. and if all is well ., no more worries.

 

[DaveO430]

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machinehead wrote:

I wouldnt doubt that the Honda filter is also built by Fram ! Would be interesting to find out .

They did in fact build filters for Honda at one time, but to Honda's specs. Nobody wanted them anyway so they don't buy them any more.

 

[ceasefire49]

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tlbranth wrote:

Never had a problem with Fram filters. Been using them on cars for probably 40 years.

3 years ago almost to this date My Ex Neighbor in Oregon toasted his engine on his Town Car. Reason..Fram Filter failure..He got a new engine.Motorcycle Oil and Filters

 

[JerryH]

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While I only know of 2 "absolutely for sure" failures of Fram filters, I have heard dozens of horror stories about them on different forums over the years. I just can't verify them. The thing is, I have never heard those stories about ANY other oil filter. I have long used Emgo filters, both the spin on type, and the pleated cartridge type, without any problems. I've never heard of anyone else ever having problems with them either, and they are cheap.

BTW, as far as I know, it is only the spin on (metal can) type Fram oil filters that have failed. I'm just assuming that's what the 1500 has. Seems like Fram fills them full of glue, plugging up all the oil passages. To the original poster, I'll bet if you install any filter designed for your bike and not made by Fram, you will not have the oil light problem anymore. Those of you who choose to use Fram filters do so at your own risk, I would do some research on Fram filters first, but it is your bike.

Just Google "Fram oil filter problems" and see what you come up with. Then do the same with any other brand.