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Oil Viscosity

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The hot weather is overdue here and one of these days it will be here and stick around for the next 3 months or so. Question is should I go to a different wt of oil. Theory, I believe, is with hot conditions use a thicker/heavier grade of oil. Average temperatures will range in the high 80's- low mid 90's and 100 not uncommon. Whaddaya think? I normally run what the manual calls for - 10W-40. When the temps hit high 90's/low 100's on these concrete freeways here it feels like riding in a blast furnace. Can't imagine what it's like just east of here. :X
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The temperature variance of oils today is so great, I see no need to change to a different weight oil. The first number 10W stands for how viscosity is when it is cold outside and this number is supposed to be good at -20. The second number is viscosity for when it is hot outside and 40 is supposed to be good at way over 100 degrees. Hope this helps.
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You'll find a number of people running 20W50 in very hot areas (Phoenix for example).. or synthetics like 5W50... but escondido is not that hot... (more like sandiego:waving:) and 20W50 might be too thick in the cooler months (since we can ride year round in SoCal)...
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Escondido consistently runs in the 90's during the hottest months but ambient temperature is not the whole story. Freeway temperatures are intense. I was shocked how hot the freeways are. Of course one doesn't notice in an AC cooled vehicle. 20-50 is a good suggestion. Whaddaya think of 5W-30? I've got a couple k on my last oil/filter change and I need to hit it with some seafoam before I change it and then I could switch viscosities for the season. I remember using more oil in my old Nighthawk every hot season and I'm convinced it was because I was running 10-40.
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escogold wrote:
..... Whaddaya think of 5W-30?.... .
I know what is is like in Escondido (check my name) and 5W30 is too thin... and probably also "energy conserving" as most 5W30 oils seem to be... those additives are not good for the clutch... check the API seal on the can..
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I use DELO 400 (15W40) in all weather. It's performed well for me in temps down to freezing or a bit below and holds up well in temperatures over 100F.
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Oil Viscosity is a heavy subject. Most people believe they understand it, and for what it is worth, their understanding of how it works is actually good enough for maintaining their engines. For instance a 10W-40 oil should NEVER be mixed with a 10W-30, even in the same brand of OIL. The Polymers are totally different. But,again your understanding of this this is not important to the upkeep of your engine. Just stick with the owners manual recommendations and do not mix different blends together.

A 10W-30 Oil will flow exactly like a regular (Straight) 10 Viscosity oil at 13 Degrees below zero. But a straight 10 Viscosity oil will thin out a lot as the temperature rises. At 100 Degrees a regular 10 Viscosity will STILL flow like a 10 Viscosity Oil would at 100 Degrees. Where as the 10W-40 Oil would flow like a 40 Viscosity Oil would at 100 Degrees.

To make this even more abstract, the Multi Viscosity Oil will start to lose this ability to do this soon after it is put into service. This is one reason why you need to change your Oil. Oil does a LOT, but right now we are talking about Viscosity.

Some things you would NEVER want to put a Multi Viscosity oil in. An aircompressor for one (Although the cylinder does get hot) never gets as hot as your Motorcycle Engine (Spark and Fuel burns HOT). The Actual Aircompressor does not have a spark plug and fuel, although it may have a Gas Engine to Turn the Pulleys on the Compressor.

Some of you will not see or understand the Difference between what I've just posted and what sethan12 posted above. And like I stated, it really does not matter if you don't. We are really saying the same thing for the most part. Both of us are just skimming the surface, the actual viscosity of oil decreases in a logarithmic and predictable manner, and the Polimer Chains actually keep an oil tighter or closer to it's consistancy. A Straight 10 would vary a LOT from flowing like a 10 at 13 Below to flowing like a 10 at 100 Degrees. It would thin out a LOT! The 10W-40 would not thin out near as much. Did I describe this well enough? For those of you who believe I did a good job then I did. For those of you who think I said the exact same thing as Sethan12 you are also right. For those that think this was boring, guess what? You are right too. Like I said, you do not have to understand any of this if you will just follow the manufactures recommendation.

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20W-50 in my 100°+ summer rides.
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I'll have to read it a few times but thanks very much for taking the time to try to describe it.
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Sandiegobrass what did you mean by "those additives are not good for clutch". Did you mean the Seafoam?
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He was talking about friction modifiers in the oil. Listed as energy saving on API
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SETHAN12 wrote:
He was talking about friction modifiers in the oil. Listed as energy saving on API
Yep...
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exavid wrote:
I use DELO 400 (15W40) in all weather. It's performed well for me in temps down to freezing or a bit below and holds up well in temperatures over 100F.
I live in So Cal and travel a lot to the river, temps vary a lot. Been using Delo 400 (15w40) for a long time. Like the way it feels with the clutch as well. I'll stick with it.
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