Oil
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Most people use regular oil, there's no real proper motorcycle oil in spite of what the oil companies. Oil molecules get crushed by the gears and that's just a fact with a shared engine/gearbox. We can't use gear oil in the engine eitherbecause it's too thick. Just use a good quality motor oil and change it regularly.
Most people use regular oil, there's no real proper motorcycle oil in spite of what the oil companies. Oil molecules get crushed by the gears and that's just a fact with a shared engine/gearbox. We can't use gear oil in the engine eitherbecause it's too thick. Just use a good quality motor oil and change it regularly.
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Well said Jason. The oil companies would love to sell their special oils, at an elevated price of course. I used Havoline 10w40 in my wing for the first twenty years and switched over to synthetic about three years ago. I have used both Mobil One and Amsoil. Call me insensitive, but I cannot tell the difference. Just don't use STP or other additives that reduce friction and may cause clutch problems.
Well said Jason. The oil companies would love to sell their special oils, at an elevated price of course. I used Havoline 10w40 in my wing for the first twenty years and switched over to synthetic about three years ago. I have used both Mobil One and Amsoil. Call me insensitive, but I cannot tell the difference. Just don't use STP or other additives that reduce friction and may cause clutch problems.
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darbike wrote:
Now the good news, 15W40, 20W50, any of the CD oils, & motorcycle oil's are NOT required to be"energy conserving" so most do not contain moly.
If you choose a 15W oil, or a 20W50, or even most 10W40 oil there is a good chance it doesn't contain molly & also has a good concentration of phosphorous.
A quick guide is to turn the oil container around, on the back you will find a circle, in the top half of that circle there will be the words (API service), if the bottom half of the circle is blank, thenit isn't "energy conserving " so is probably OK for wet clutch motorcycle usage. If the bottom has the words (energy conserving) then it is probably not the best choice for your bike.
Twsity
darbike wrote:
darbike, what your were told is at least partially true. The reference to auto oil being 10W30, 5W30, 0W40 etc. Due to fuel mileage concerns in late model cars & light trucks the oil spec for those has been changed to "energy conserving". Those particular oil's could (not all do though) contain molybdenum (moly). There is great concern that high concentrations of moly in a wet clutch motorcycle could cause some clutch slippage. That hasn't really ever been totally proven but there is actually data supporting both sides on that matter. Most "energy conserving" oil's contain less phosphorous also & phosphorous is a good addition to motorcycles that sit forextended periods.
Now the good news, 15W40, 20W50, any of the CD oils, & motorcycle oil's are NOT required to be"energy conserving" so most do not contain moly.
If you choose a 15W oil, or a 20W50, or even most 10W40 oil there is a good chance it doesn't contain molly & also has a good concentration of phosphorous.
A quick guide is to turn the oil container around, on the back you will find a circle, in the top half of that circle there will be the words (API service), if the bottom half of the circle is blank, thenit isn't "energy conserving " so is probably OK for wet clutch motorcycle usage. If the bottom has the words (energy conserving) then it is probably not the best choice for your bike.
Twsity
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Jason wrote:
Twisty
Jason wrote:
Jason, actually a lot of motor oils are a higher viscosity than gear oil. Gear oil's use a different rating system & viscosity chart. A 75 weight gear oil is about equal to 10-15 weight motor oil, 90 weight gear oil is close to 40-50 weight motor oil. The big difference is the additive package & pour points, there are other subtle differences also as most gear oil contains a high concentration of sulfur based products (that's what gives it that unique smell)
Twisty
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the key to remember is that because of the clutch/gearbox the oil will most likely break down sooner than it would in an auto engine. I have run synthetics for years with good success. I have also used stp with my bike that has the sidecar and never had clutch slippage problems. When I have taken long trips (and I have too much scottish blood to pay a shop to change my oil) I start with a fresh change, and have added stp on the trip.
just my two-cents worth... but I bet this topic has as many opinions as proper tire presure, brands of gasoline, after-market floor boards, the color of your bike, mpg, and should your wife should dye her hair (lol)
the key to remember is that because of the clutch/gearbox the oil will most likely break down sooner than it would in an auto engine. I have run synthetics for years with good success. I have also used stp with my bike that has the sidecar and never had clutch slippage problems. When I have taken long trips (and I have too much scottish blood to pay a shop to change my oil) I start with a fresh change, and have added stp on the trip.
just my two-cents worth... but I bet this topic has as many opinions as proper tire presure, brands of gasoline, after-market floor boards, the color of your bike, mpg, and should your wife should dye her hair (lol)
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A couple years back, I read an article in one of the popular motorcycle rags....they took two identical Honda CB900RRs and ran them to 100k miles. One with "Honda" motorcycle oil and one with regular Castrol GTX. They took them apart and put a mic to everything. They said there wasn't any appreciable difference, they actually thought the Castrol showed a tiny bit less wear.
A couple years back, I read an article in one of the popular motorcycle rags....they took two identical Honda CB900RRs and ran them to 100k miles. One with "Honda" motorcycle oil and one with regular Castrol GTX. They took them apart and put a mic to everything. They said there wasn't any appreciable difference, they actually thought the Castrol showed a tiny bit less wear.
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