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Ok, so I changed the engine oil, and the final drive oil today. There had been a lot of valve clatter, and vibration from the engine, so I was anxious to put some new oil in there. Anyhow, I pulled the drain plug out of the bike, and the oil that drained out was as thin as water. I used my infrared thermometer, and it was reading about 220 Farenheit. (105 C) There was no water seperating out, and there was no smell of gasoline. Is that what 10w40 acts like at these temps? The color was ok, about that of light molasses. (Brown when backlit)

Anyhow, the engine is much quieter now, and smoother. I do know that the pervious owner had put slick50 in that batch, but I don't think that has any bearing in this.

Anyhow, I also did the rear drive. Oil came out black with grey clouding. (Normal, I'm guessing.) I refilled with 80-90 Hypoid gear oil in a bid to help with the inherrent oil starvation problems. (I'm thinking that the dual weight will stick to the parts a little bit better, and reduce wear a bit better.)

Oh, and the engineoil I used? The same stuff that is in my other bike, and my car: Castrol GTX.Resists breakdown and sludge, and doesn't mess with the wet clutch.
 

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That light oil will pour real easy when hot. The colour you describe is good and healthy. The grey cloudyness in the diff oil is the fine bits of metal that would normally be filtered out if it was in an engine so you don't have much to worry about.
 

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Phil, you really only need to have the engine good and warm to change oil, 220F is a bit dangerous, especially if you get a handful when pulling the plug. At that temp, it will be thin as water. The fallacy of Slick 50 is pretty well proved. If it was as good as it claims, your clutch wouldn't work. The SAE 80/90 won't make much difference over 80, it'll work just fine. I really don't think there's all that much problem with the rear drive even though there have been those on the forum who claim it's badly designed and doesn't hold enough oil. My bike has 94,000 miles and the rear drive is just fine. I check the level every 3,000 miles and will change it once a season. My 1200 had 65,000 miles on it and the rear drive was in good shape. I think the argument about it being a bad design is bogus, I have enough faith in Honda that they would have corrected it if there was a problem, after all they designed a fine machine in the Goldwing. I'd bet that the folks who have problems either didn't maintain the oil level or brutalized it.
 

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Well, The place I work on my bike is about 15 miles from where I live, so whenever I work on a bike, it's always warm at the beginning. What I do to be safe, is use long woble extensions so my hands are out of the line of fire, plus I wear latex gloves underneath mechanics gloves until the stuff cools down, when the mechanic golves come off.

I pulled the inspection and drain off of the final drive, and let it drain while I undid the drain and filter on the engine, then I went inside and watched TV for half an hour. Then I buttoned things back up, and filled everything up. Bada-bing...

I know it's hot, and dangerous, but hey, I'm stupid and reckless sometimes. Also, I like the oil to be as hot as possible. Since it came out like water, I'd like to think that it carried a lot of the bottom sludge with it.
 

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Yeah there's no doubt you're getting more of the old crud out. Just be careful, we don't want you to be boiled in oil!
 

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Well, potatos boiled in oil make fries, and I like fries...

Fries are good, so are potato chips, and hashed brouwns...

Mmm...

Fresh-made Hashed browns, and waffels...



I'll be back in an hour. The stomach beckons!
 
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