Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 42 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
imported post

Hey guys;

Is it ok to run synthetic oil in the bike? Also I would like to know what oil weight I should use. I am getting ready to change my oil and have it ready for next spring and would like to know what is the best way to go.

Also, what about spark plugs? Is there only one type to get, or do I have a choice?

Thanks

Jay
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,474 Posts
imported post

:shock:



ah young grasshopper you seek the wisdom of the ancients! To be safe in your journey refer to the manual. Nobody (well mostly nobody) argues with Mother Honda. But you should be getting some replies shortly.:waving:Keno
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
627 Posts
imported post

woodworks wrote:
Hey guys;

Is it ok to run synthetic oil in the bike? Also I would like to know what oil weight I should use. I am getting ready to change my oil and have it ready for next spring and would like to know what is the best way to go.

Also, what about spark plugs? Is there only one type to get, or do I have a choice?

Thanks

Jay
as far as oil i run 15w40 shell rotella-t in the LTD.smoother shifts, quieter gearbox,

and lower oil temps. it does not break down like some other oils can. or use

mobil 1 . either of these oils are good to go.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
606 Posts
imported post

Hey Jay. I asked the shop where I bought my Wing the same question just a week or so ago. They told me "not" torun a full synthetic oil in my 1500. They did say that Honda made a partial synthetic oil especially for the 1500, but I don't recall what they said the name of it was. I asked them what the problem with running a full synthetic was and they said something about causing a clutch problem. I am sure that there are some on here that are running a full synthetic oil without any problems, but this is what the shop foreman at the Honda shop told me. According to the Shop manual for the 1500, there are 3 plugs that Honda recommends. Standard heat range NGK DPR7EA-9or ND X22EPR-U9: Cold weather below 41 degrees NGK DPR6EA-9 or ND X20EPR-U9: Extended high-speed riding NGK DPR5EA-9 or ND X24EPR-U9 plug gag 0.031 to 0.035

Cobra

:15grey:
 

·
Administrator
02 GL1800 w/Auto Pilot
Joined
·
59,727 Posts
imported post

I run Chevron's Delo 400 15w40 in mine.

Made the gear box a lot quieter and the shifts smoother.

Probably my imagination, but I'm happier with it. :D
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
285 Posts
imported post

Where oil is concerned you have a motorcycle that will run 200000+ miles using honda mc oil or the rottela-t or delo, how many more miles would you expect to get using the more expensive synthetic oil? And oh yea 10w40 for now or early spring 15w40 in the summer should be good for the weather in ohio

Another point is if you are storing it for the winter you should change the oil now and then again in the spring before you start to ride it again.

As far as plugs go, how many miles are on the plugs? They last a long time. But i have seen a lot of talk about the iridium but they are costly, don't know if they are worth it.

But check out http://cyclemaxohio.com/inc/sdetail/750this they are fast, good and cheap.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
627 Posts
imported post

the 84 gl1200 interstate i owned had 365,000 on the clock and i ran rotella-t. i bought it with 20,000 miles on it and never overhauled the beast. just the routine stuff like every 50,000 miles change the cam belts and tensioners, oil at 3500 miles, valve cover gaskets every 2 years, and tires as needed.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
33 Posts
imported post

Woodworks,
I do not see a reason not to use synthetic if you want too. The Rotella T 5W40 will pass the JASO MA clutch friction tests as will the 15W40 convention oil. These "universal" diesel oils will meet API Categories for gasoline engines - API SM also and are sold for fleets containing diesel and gasoline engines. They pass the JASO MA because they generally do not contain friction modifiers, at least for now. One benefit for synthetics is easier cranking and oil flow when the engine is cold.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
339 Posts
imported post

The synthetics will run great in your wing and give you a smoother quieter shifting, but it is still important to change the oil by the manual recommendations. Go ahead and give it a try; the worse thing that can happen is that you don't like how the oil works in your bike and change it back to a dino oil!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,539 Posts
imported post

I was told by my dealer, just last week, that once you go to synthetic oil you can not go back. (2008/1800) Anyone have comments on that?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,502 Posts
imported post

wilkoi wrote:
I was told by my dealer, just last week, that once you go to synthetic oil you can not go back. (2008/1800) Anyone have comments on that?
Yea only one comment, he is an Idjuit. :D:D:D:D I should not have read this thread I am in a very good mood and will just get into trouble. Kit
 

·
Probationary
Joined
·
4,535 Posts
imported post

My Honda manual states it is much more important to change oil every 90 days as it becomes corrosive during combustion. I just changed oil/filter on Oct 15, so next change is Jan 15, then April 15, then July 15....

I use a good 15-40 in the Warm months & 15w40 in the colder months.

I keep a list ofinterchangable oil filters in the trunk, and useany,except Fram. I usually get 4- one gallon jugs of oil + 4 filters every Spring to keep myself from procrastinating....which I would do if the oil & filter weren't 'right there'.

Then there is the SUV, F-150, the 500 Shadow & the Lawn Tractor...on the same schedule. I'll be picking upeight 5 quart &eight 4 quartjugs of oil tomorrow, while the price is down.

It's also time for plugs, wiper blades, washer fluids, etc. There goes a Sunday afternoon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
imported post

Kit Carson wrote:
wilkoi wrote:
I was told by my dealer, just last week, that once you go to synthetic oil you can not go back. (2008/1800) Anyone have comments on that?
Yea only one comment, he is an Idjuit. :D:D:D:D I should not have read this thread I am in a very good mood and will just get into trouble. Kit
Ok, we have one votefor Idjuit. Do we have two???
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
428 Posts
imported post

AZgl1500 wrote:
I run Chevron's Delo 400 15w40 in mine.

Made the gear box a lot quieter and the shifts smoother.

Probably my imagination, but I'm happier with it. :D
Me too! Changed about 500 miles ago from Castrol 4T 20-50 and quite a noticable improvement.

Chuck
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
428 Posts
imported post

rollen dean montoya wrote:
the 84 gl1200 interstate i owned had 365,000 on the clock and i ran rotella-t. i bought it with 20,000 miles on it and never overhauled the beast. just the routine stuff like every 50,000 miles change the cam belts and tensioners, oil at 3500 miles, valve cover gaskets every 2 years, and tires as needed.
Valve cover gaskets . . . is this a neccessary maintanence item?

Chuck
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
285 Posts
imported post

I agree if you can't go back why can you start? Thats a myth started by the synthetic oil manufacturers, or just urban bs. There is no proof or logical reason for this just someone starts saying it and everybody starts believing it.

Its like i have heard people say at the begining of the season they run a tank of premium or some high octane fuel through the bike because it cleans it real good.
 

·
Administrator
02 GL1800 w/Auto Pilot
Joined
·
59,727 Posts
imported post

rhughes wrote:
I agree if you can't go back why can you start? Thats a myth started by the synthetic oil manufacturers, or just urban bs. There is no proof or logical reason for this just someone starts saying it and everybody starts believing it.

Its like i have heard people say at the begining of the season they run a tank of premium or some high octane fuel through the bike because it cleans it real good.
What it cleans out real good, is the wallet of the believer :cheeky1: :dude:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
155 Posts
imported post

I thought that myth about not being able to run dino oil after sythetic had died a timely death. The man may not be a total idjuit but he is not saying the same thing that lubricant Chemists say.Fact is, that synthetic oil IS dino oil that has been dimantled and put back together with longer molecule chains,if I may over simplify it. You will notice perhaps that the oil recyclers do not have any dificulty with fully synthetic oil.

Synthetic oil is a little more slippery than conventional oil, and if a clutch is on it's last legs it could cause it to start to slip but does not seem to bother a healthy clutch.

More important than what kind of oil is the frequency that you change it. use the best oil you can afford, but change it often. Don't forget that the Honda recomendation for oil change intervals is to get you off warantee, not to make the bike last forever. That would be counter productive for them.

My bike gives me so much that I feel good giving a little back.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
627 Posts
imported post

it is when you live in the desert where the temps hit 100+ degrees for 4months.

the other reason is i ride 50,000 to 80,000 miles a year so you can see i wear out things.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
18 Posts
imported post

heres another opinion on oils i own a 1999 gl1500 se with 158000 kliks on it and have never used anything except AMSOIL 10/40 motorcycle oil in it and never had a problem with the bike i also had a 1991 gl 1500 se and ran AMSOIL in it for 185000 kliks with no problem it seem to shift better and quieter but thats all and it also ran cooler in hot weather
 
1 - 20 of 42 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top