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There may well be a post like this already somewhere here but I did not find it. Please point me to it if this is a redundant post.

I have narrowed my problem down to my stator. I'm going to dive in and do it myself. As I rip everything apart, what should I be making sure to do/replace on the way?

I have noticed a coolant leak right at the bottom front of the block so I will be looking in to that? I also have some sort of oil leak that is dripping onto the headers (smells horrible at all times) so I will be looking in to that. Might as well change the timing belts while I'm in there since it is a "new to me" '85 and I have no idea if these were ever done.

Anything else?
 

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I'd take it one step at a time.

It's rare for the LTD & SEi models to burn up a stator. Are you sure? Have you done the continuity tests and such as described in the hundreds of threads on the subject?

You can not get a replacement stator with the quality of the Honda product, which was specially sized for these models. And, chances are very good any aftermarket stator will be short lived. Some of them last for minutes.

Is the coolant leak coming from the weep hole?

Is the oil leak on the left? Probably the shift shaft seal.
 

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Thanks Dennis.

I am narrowing it down to the stator as a process. I certainly won't replace the stator just for fun but will check all the steps first before doing that. I always do a ton of research before I go doing things. In this case that means I am researching what should be done on the way to the stator so I can look in to what is needed for those steps and whether or not I can reasonably expect to do them myself.

I appreciate the heads up on the shifter shaft seal. The oil leak is certainly on the left front side. I'm going to research that now to see what it is all about 🙂
 

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I had a charging problem with my 1100 right after I got it. Turned out to be the connections next to the battery. Hard wired and then later on put in a quick connect similar to the 4 way trailer light connectors. Was still working when I sold it last summer. Must still be working as I saw it Sunday afternoon. Not to many wings with a sidecar on in our area.
 

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Depending on miles and extent of coolant leak, look close at water pump. If both coolant AND oil are seen leaking from the WP-weep hole, likely could use a water pump.
https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/5-general-motorcycle-discussion-forum/637898-86-aspencade.html


Hoses, Coolant & T-stat maybe.


Inspect closely the removable lower left frame rail for interior rust induced weakening.


How peppy is the starter, it might could do with a cleaning, new brushes, brush plate ground strap.
https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/571994-gl1200-starter-sluggish.html


Great time to clean / wax inaccessible places.


Check U-joint while engine is out.


I did mine in the '90s, used 1/2 plywood with some added glued on ribs to "lock" into place with engine cooling fins, put a piece on lower side to accept jack head of small floor jack at center, so I could balance engine and R&R myself.
 

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Thanks Dennis.

I am narrowing it down to the stator as a process. I certainly won't replace the stator just for fun but will check all the steps first before doing that. I always do a ton of research before I go doing things. In this case that means I am researching what should be done on the way to the stator so I can look in to what is needed for those steps and whether or not I can reasonably expect to do them myself.

I appreciate the heads up on the shifter shaft seal. The oil leak is certainly on the left front side. I'm going to research that now to see what it is all about 🙂
I have a question: Why not check the stator first and go from there?? If the stator test's good then it's normally either the connectors at the stator, regulator, or the starting solenoid that are loosing connectivity due to age and heat and will show signs of burning or the regulator is bad and should be replaced with the OEM Shindengen regulator.


Also, be aware if the stator is indeed bad, the Ltd Ed uses a 500 watt stator and is physically larger than the 360 watt stator used in the '85 Interstate and Aspy…


Here's a Stator Test if you need it:

"Stator Test

1- First, put the bike on the centerstand. Cut the wires on both sides of the stator connector plug. Strip the insulation aprox. 1/2"-1" back on all three yellow wires. Label each wire A, B, and C.

2- With a multimeter, digital or analog, set to read resistance, check each leg to ground for short's. If no short's are found, (o resistance), you're good to go so far.

3- With the meter set to read resistance, check across each leg. A to B, B to C, then C to A. The reading's should be about 3 ohm's. If you read infinite resistance across any of the legs you have an open winding and the stator is bad. If they read good, keep going.

4- A helper is good to have for this next step. With the battery fully charged and the three yellow wire's separated so they cannot make contact, crank the bike. Have your helper rev the bike to 3000rpm after the bike warm's up.

IMPORTANT!!!

You are checking for AC voltage NOT DC voltage!! Make sure the meter is set to read a minimum of 120vac!!

With the bike at 3000rpm, check leg A to B. Note the voltage.
Then check leg B to C. Note the voltage.
Finaly check leg C to A. Note the voltage.

Compare the three readings. They should be between 50-70vac plus or minus about 5vac per leg. If they read good, chances are you've got a bad regulator."
 

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Have you checked into a conversion kit ? We put a,POOR BOY kit on my friends 1984 interstate and it works like a charm. A lot better than yanking the motor off the frame. We put it on about 2yrs ago and no problems with it at all.
 

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I have come up with the list ending reason not to do a poor boy. The front crank seal, especially one this old, cannot take the strain of a pulley putting sideways pressure on it and will fail accordingly. This is a seal that can not be replaced. They simply are not available anywhere. Period.

So, knowing that, do you plan on keeping the bike for awhile?
 

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I have come up with the list ending reason not to do a poor boy. The front crank seal, especially one this old, cannot take the strain of a pulley putting sideways pressure on it and will fail accordingly. This is a seal that can not be replaced. They simply are not available anywhere. Period.

So, knowing that, do you plan on keeping the bike for awhile?
The front crank seal from a 1500 is the same size and will work. Have to disagree with the sideways pressure, be hard pressed to put enough pressure on the front of the crank to make it bend.

Another consideration is to pull the engine, replace the stator if it's faulty, do the clutch at the same time depending on Kms. Once this is done replace the RR with a series RR such as the SH847 from Roadstercycle. Know of an '85 LTD that has one installed, sold him the one I had and it is working very well. The series RR is a good upgrade.

Check the stator first, if it's good, do the test on the RR. If all is good something else is wrong.
 
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