[PappaJim]

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Hello to all. My newly acquired ride is a '79 with 51,000 showing on a broken speedo. I live in central Texas and understand prices vary, but it sure would help if some of you might give me some idea what kind of money I'm looking at for an overhaul, assuming an almost worse case senario. It's backfiring occassionally, misfiring on theleft bank, blowing white smoke on the left side and when accelerating from an idle there's a tapping on the right side, kinda sounds like a wrist pin. So, rings, bearings, seals,carbs rebuilt, Also, it grinds going into first, and clunks when it sinc's.



Thanks in advance for everyone's help



PappaJim

 

[gumbyred]

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Soumds like lots of money may be needed to get this bike running, even if you do the work yourself. Probabaly be better off finding a good used engine to replace the one you have with. Unless you are good with a wrench, and looking for a project. you may be better off finding a good running bike instead. I am the type who buys a good running bike to begin with, then maintain it well, and drive the heck out of it. 2- 300,000 miles sounds about right.



Tom Bishop

`98 S.E.

 

[PappaJim]

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That's kinda crossed my mind, but.... the desire to keep it original runs deep, probably deeper than my pocketbook.

 

[P Yanney]

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I don't think it's that bad. Carb rebuild, timing belts, maybe head gaskets and a valve job with a few odds and ends. Don't give up.

 

[plow boy]

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MY 84 GW Did not run good when I first bought it.I spent a lot of money on carb cleaner that just didn't do the trick.I saw a post on this forum about YAMALUBE RINGFREE,at first i bought YAMALUBE CARB CLEANER with RINGFREE,it didn't do very much,then I bought straight RINGFREE and used the shock treatment twice.I remember when it cleared up,Icouldn't beleave it. I'm not saying it will work on your bike but I almost gave up on mine,and would have had this not worked.I have a new bike now and the wife wants me to sell my GW,NO WAY.

 

[wilf]

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The only thing that concerns me is the white smoke. does it have a sweet antifreeze smell. Other than that it all sounds normal for a goldwing that has sat for a while. the Knocking noise is most likely the primary chain. it will go away after about 2000 rpm. it is most pronounced under low rpm load. It is caused by slack in the primary chain. This is common and is mostly cured by a good tuneup and carb sysc.
This is the normal stuff that needs doing on a old wing. If you do it yourself. Most anyone can work there way thro it. It is very easy and basic stuff. I is not to expensive.
If you plan on paying someone to do the work for you. sell the bike and buy one that is running well as it can be very expensive if you get this work done at a shop.
It will not be a matter of dropping it off paying a big chunk of cash and driving away a nice running wing. I don't think it work's like that. Ive had my 79 for 3 yrs now. Ive been thro just about every thing on it and it is running great. But it's always finding new things for me to work on. Untill I have replacer or rebuilt every single part on the bike it will be like this. But for me thats fine its part of ownning a great old bike like this. Lots of love and labour but not a whole lota cash layout. I guess thats why I own 3 and lust after more!
Wilf

 

[chilidawg]

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PappaJim wrote:

Hello to all. My newly acquired ride is a '79 with 51,000 showing on a broken speedo. I live in central Texas and understand prices vary, but it sure would help if some of you might give me some idea what kind of money I'm looking at for an overhaul, assuming an almost worse case senario. It's backfiring occassionally, misfiring on theleft bank, blowing white smoke on the left side and when accelerating from an idle there's a tapping on the right side, kinda sounds like a wrist pin. So, rings, bearings, seals,carbs rebuilt, Also, it grinds going into first, and clunks when it sinc's.



Thanks in advance for everyone's help



PappaJim

I've gotthree suggestions that might help you, 1. Don't ever expect to get your money back on it, look at it as a hobby, 2. Even to this day there has not been a shaft drive motorcycle made that does not have a clunky gear change into first, 3. Try warming it up a bit before you ride it and hold in the clutch a little more before engaging gear, OK and 4, if you want it to sound better, wear a helmet, it's an old bike dude, ride it and have fun!! :action:Oh yeah and welcome to the forum!!

 

[exavid]

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Carb overhaul and a new head gasket on the left side should cure most of your problems. If it 'grinds' when going into first you might need to adjust your clutch cable to make sure the clutch is fully released. I seriously doubt the internals of the engine are in bad shape, these things are tough as nails and survive a lot of neglect. Do the head gasket first or have it done. While you or a shop is at it retorque the right head bolts too. The knocking is pretty normal for a badly balanced engine due to carb sync or dirty carbs.

 

[plow boy]

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When your motor runs smooth the bike shifts a lot better.

 

[PappaJim]

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Wow, thanks to all of you for your valuable input. I'm encouraged to know maybe I didn't goof up as badly as I thought. I'm very glad to hear about the clunking into first. I remember years ago it was an issue on the rst;u 80's Yamaha 1100. Regarding the rattle at low speeds, you're correct, the noise does go away at higher rpms. I know I have a little gas leak at one carb, so will start with the most obvious, will buy the Yamaha Ring stuff and see how it does. Do any of you have any comments on additives like Slick 50? I've used it in my cars, is it acceptable or beneficial in cycles? I'm more than thankful I"ve discovered the forum, it's truly an amazing source for help and info Ride Safe, Ride Happy,

 

[rgbeard]

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It is amazing how just carbs out-of-sync can make you believe your engine has deep-down problems.

I've purchased a few GL1200s from people that thought they were falling apart. A quick carb sync, and *presto*.

 

[wda-83wing]

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the slick 50 treatment will cause the clutch to have problems. like slipping of the clutch under load. i do not suggest using it. the engine oil is also transmission , clutch lube oil.

 

[morram]

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http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/107906.html

 

[Dustytoes]

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...Dont give up i dragged home a GL1000-78 with about the same in Km,and its my third bike in the shed and second barn find
I am a huge Seafoam fan,an egg cup full in the oil sump and and 1/2 a can in the gas tank and gently ride er,is what works for me ...
I do know in my case doing the timing belts will be high on the priority list after i at get her fired up.welcome and the best of good luck :waving:

 

[wilf]

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I know a lotta peaple here are hooked on seafoam.I have used it before and still have 1/2 a can in the garage I may use on my snowblower.
I have brought home 2 older goldwings and have learned one of the first things to do is pull the carbs and give them a cleanning. You do not have to splurg on a carb kit.But it is a wize investment to get a kit in the long run. if you find the rubber parts deteriorated
wilf

 

[TrikerBo]

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I'll plus 1 on chilidawg
A proper overhaul is going to cost you big bucks even when you do it yourself.
I ride mine and fix the bits that become most troublesome as they pop up.
I found that it never stops on old bikes and cars
Bo

 

[rpeters549]

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I once restored a 77GL1000 that had sat in a barn from 1985 until I bought it in 2000, sold in 2002 because the wife was not comfy enough. That thing is probably a lot more reliable than you think. As most have said, address the obvious issues first-- most are not too expensive anyway and you may well find you do not have to remove or split the engine case. I was able to do 90% of my own work so when I sold it I broke even (and kept the trailer I got with it. Still use it, too). It helped that I bought it from a friend who gave me a steal of a deal ($800 for both. Oh- it showed 17k on the ODO and the carbs had no moving parts because it was in an open barn. That was my biggest expense).
If you do pull the heads keep track of those stinking o-rings!

 

[rpeters549]

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The cheapest repair was getting the GALLON of dog food out of the exhaust stashed by the mice...
Though it took a lot of shaking...

 

[GregForesi]

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The cost associated with getting one back to being a good runner and stopper ends up around $1500 to $2500 depending on how far you take it. You can end up near $500 rebuilding the brake system alone. Throw in tubes, tires, some bearings and seals and it adds up in a hurry.
Nobody really over-hauls the engines in these things (there are a couple of hard-cases who have done it). The parts aren't readily available anymore andrequire diligent searchingto find. 99% of the peripheral parts (clutch, stator, waterpump, etc) are available.

I'm a fan of parking'em and getting as much right as possible before riding 'em. It's way more enjoyable when it's reliable and doesn't need constant attention as different things fail or start leaking or whatever.

 

[PappaJim]

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Y'all hve given me a lot of hope for the future of my bike. I think I'm in a lot better shape on this one now that I know a bit more of what to expect.

The bike starts and drives great, just has the intermittent mis-firing issue, which may very well clear up with the Sea Foam.

I did all the ohm meter tests on the stator and it's definitely kaput, but y'all have convinced me the overhaul may not be necessary and that's a huge relief.