Overheating GL1200

2595 Views 16 Replies 11 Participants Last post by tracker4x44, Aug 8, 2009

Lumpy223

Discussion Starter · Jul 31, 2009

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Yesterday after work I was riding on the expressway when I noticed the temp was higher than normal on my 84 Interstate 1200. It never got all the way over to the red area on the gauge but was getting close when I parked it.

I let it sit for a bit and cool down before trying to get home. Once back on the road it would heat up quick and I had to stop to let it cool several times before I finally got home. I never let it get in the red.

The electric radiator fan seems to be working good. Coolant is good and so is the level. Today I got it out to see what would happen. It still heats up fast and would overheat if I left it running. Immediately after shutting it down (gauge reading almost to the red) I checked the coolant level again. Level is good. The side of the coolant tank was cool to the touch. Should this be warm?

There doesn't seem to be any power loss on the bike. I am not seeing any white smoke like I am getting coolant into a cylinder. I am not smelling coolant.

Just wondering where I should start. I am not a real mechanic but I did get the manual and can probably work my way through some minor repair work. I am thinking of trying easy stuff first (hoping for a bad thermostat).

Anyone care to comment? Maybe offer some suggestions?

It finally quit raining here and now my bike is sick. Thanks guys.

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plainmech

· #2 · Jul 31, 2009

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do you have access to an infared thermometer? before eng. gets warm remove radiator cap, run eng. try to verify flow of coolant. when you verify level are you checking resevoir or radiator? DON'T OPEN HOT. good luck, others will chime in with ideas and experiences. have you recently changed anti freeze?:action::waving:

JOHNO

· #3 · Jul 31, 2009

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The coolant tank may be full, but take the radiator cap off, I bet the radiator is empty.
If so, check the hose between radiator and header tank and that both ends are air tight especially the push fit into the top of the tank.
The coolant expands when hot, the rad cap valve opens pushing excess coolant to the tank but instead it steams to air. When the engine cools, it draws in air instead of the reserve coolant from the tank.

yes the header tank contents will stay cool

kyboy67

· #4 · Jul 31, 2009

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Sounds like a stuck thermostat to me.......

Lumpy223

Discussion Starter · #5 · Jul 31, 2009

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Thank you guys.

I am an idiot.

Reserve tank was full, radiator, not so much.

I have much to learn.

Thanks again.

Garry Hill

· #6 · Jul 31, 2009

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Ok Now now you need to figure why you are loosing coolent from the radiator and it is not being replaced from the overflow tank

Dusty

· #7 · Jul 31, 2009

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Have you checked if the tube from the overflow tank is clogged or has a air bubble ? Also check you radiator cap it could be bad you can get a replacement cap at any auto parts store it is just a Honda cap and was used on many Honda cars.

plainmech

· #8 · Jul 31, 2009

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as johno said i would check hose to tank is clear then look to see signs of leak at cap, hoses, radiator, oil for milky appearence, also when serviced with water leave cap- rad. off run engine watch for bubbles in coolant, also note flow of water to tell if pump is working. never said had you recently serviced coolant as they are prone to trap air leading to overheating:action::waving:

Lumpy223

Discussion Starter · #9 · Jul 31, 2009

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No, I haven't recently serviced the radiator. A flush & fill was on my end of season list.

I will be watching this and continuing to check the items you all have suggested.

Thanks for the help. This is a good bunch of guys here.

Dusty

· #10 · Jul 31, 2009

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When you put the new coolant in you can get it at Wally world just get the one premix for all cars in dos not have silicate in it.

RonFarr

· #11 · Jul 31, 2009

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I realise we are not talking about the same model, but look at my post related to main computer and Throttle sensor. I had an overhead problem on my 2003 at the time of this failure. Perhaps it worth a look

plainmech

· #12 · Jul 31, 2009

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i wouldn't put antifreeze in yet while troubleshooting, but yes no silicates indeed. water is fine for exploritory.:action::waving:

busdriver

· #13 · Aug 1, 2009

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Use only distilled water.

RayandTracy

· #14 · Aug 1, 2009

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busdriver wrote:

Use only distilled water.

ditto:clapper:

plainmech

· #15 · Aug 1, 2009

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imho tap water is fine for troubleshooting only, after done drain and service w/ 50/50 mix non silicate anti freeze and distilled water:action::waving:

53jimc

· #16 · Aug 2, 2009

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I tell ya, if it were me, there wouldn't be any question about it, I'd overhaul the entire cooling system. The original water pumps had a plastic impeller and they have a tendancy to deteriorate over time, regardless of mileage. Mine was so bummed the bearings wore out and was letting water get into the oil sump... what a freakin mess.
I overhauled my 84 aspy, probably the same as yours, for a couple hundred bucks. The new water pumps have a metal impeller, you can get a gasket kit from JCW and you're pretty much done. Mine went from 7-8 bars to 4-6 bars running temp in any condition.
You'll be happy you did. Replace the cap, hoses and thermostat while you're at it.
When you do that, you'll have another 50 -75k mile of trouble free running.
Jim(inSC)

tracker

· #17 · Aug 8, 2009

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i agree with 53jim ,i did mine in june this year ,changed waterpump hoses and thermostat. my temperature is always lower than it was (4 to 6 bars)
waterpump $142
thermostat $15
hoses $12
riding priceless ....lol

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