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I just bought this bike, and did some of the stuff myself, but also took it to a mechanic. He stated the following: someone had replaced the coolant in the radiator prior to me doing it, and he thought the bike had been sitting a long time.

His comment was that temp. climbed gradually while riding it, which indicated not a water pump issue. He tried to flush the system, but it didn't help. His thought was to get the radiator rodded to clean it out as there might be partial blockage. The fan comes on even when riding, which he says is not normal.

question, prior to getting this done, a real problem since most radiator shops have closed down due to e.p.a. problems, what about changing the radiator cap and thermostat? Which is part of the problem. I have the n.a.p.a. number for the cap, what about the thermostat? Is there an equivilent. The honda dealer says two days to two weeks to order.

Also where do you find a good radiator if necessary and cost?

thanks,

Ron
 

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Can you tell us your ambient temperatures when this heating problem takes place. Are you running 50/50 solution, if so you will get better heat transfer at 100% water with anti fouling inhibitors. Do you need -35C freeze protection? You could also change your coolant to a less anti-freeze more water combination, but do not run only water without a lubricant and anti rusting inhibitor in the solution.

You state very few rad shops so why don't you remove the rad, soak in a tub (bath or laundry), add the toxic cleaners, let soak, drain and repeat. The temp controller can and should be pulled and tested in hot water to verify that it opens at the right temp.

Just before doing all this work, open the rad cap and run the bike with air flow through the rad and see if it still gets too hot, you cannot trust the gauges at this point, stick a known good thermometer into the rad throat and see what temps you produce. Or if you have a touchless thermometer use it.

Al
 

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it probably is around 75degrees fahr. in phx right now and I am using pure honda coolant, not antifreeze. I will messing with the bike tomorrow and will see about taking temp.

ron
 

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You need to check the thermostat first, don't guess at things before checking them. If the top radiator hose stays cool then the thermostat is staying closed. If the top hose gets hot but goes real hard (when you squeeze it) after a few minutes of the engine running then one of the head gaskets is failing. If the whole of the radiator surface gets warm then there is no blockage, a blockage will result in a cold spot on the rad. Hope this helps.
 

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i have installed a new radiator cap, and ordered an new thermostat for among other reasons a 1984 bike, it takes about a week to get it in phoenix from a honda dealer, they have to order.

I "burped" it today and found air in the system, but it still was running at about 3/4 on the guage and the fan kicking in.

Will try the hoses tomorrow.

Ron
 

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Youll replace the entire cooling system and not fix it, because its never a cooling system problem. These cycles suffer from chronic charging system and ignition problems that make them overheat.

It is not normal for the fan to come on when riding, unless the outdoor temps are extremely high and riding hard at high speeds, then suddenly stopping. I have rebuilt these cycles and tuned them so that the fan never came on, even after hard riding in the summer. Its all about having the carbs working properly (not excessively rich), repairing the electrical system and tuning it properly. Until thats all done, the problem will be permanent.
 

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Dave Campbell wrote:
Youll replace the entire cooling system and not fix it, because its never a cooling system problem. These cycles suffer from chronic charging system and ignition problems that make them overheat.
AAHH Ok Can some one explain to me how a faulty charging system can cause a bike to overheat cause this sounds like BS to me??

WF
 

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Not to disparage any one, and of course we all are equal in what we say, I just find that some things said are doubtful, but I will defend your right to say it. As a trained person in the field of things electrical I have read and heard things that simply are not quite the way that I was trained. But I am willing ti read and then decide, I always appreciate a challenge and a thought that will make me rethink the theories. I am open to new ideas and thoughts, but at times I see no reason for the comment other than to possibly confuse the issue.
 

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So Gumpy/ Ron

Have you made any progress?? I think from your last post you are headed in the right direction.

WF
 

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So Ron/Gumpy

Have you made any progress? From reading your last post it seemed to me like you were headed down the correct road. Let us know

WF
 

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I think i am on the right track at this point. I have ordered a new thermostat from honda, will be in some decade. since i now have the radiator out, it would only make sense to put the new one in, it is a 1984 and don't know if it has been changed.

As to the radiator, a visual inspection from what I could see, and more important, a radiator shop probably confirmed the problem. I had to look all over phoenix, but found a place that rebuilt them and he was familar with the old goldwings, said they had rebuilt a bunch of them. These radiators are copper which helps.

Anyway, they are acid dipping it then rodding it, he saw a bunch of buildup in it.

Commented that in itself would cause the higher temps. I have a feeling that is it, as the bike never did go to the "hot" indicator on the guage, but about three quarters.

While I am waiting for that, i have the air stem removed from the tank for the rear shocks, it is leaking. The standard did not have a compressor, just a holding tank, and it is leaking from that fill stem.

should have reassembled by the weekend and will let know how it works out
 

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Yea sounds like you have a handle on it to me. The Fan should not come on when steady riding unless it is hot asHades or you are pounding the crap out of it. If I stop after a ride and let it idle for while it will come on or like happens way too much here when I get stuck in traffic. Good Luck

WF
 

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:stumped: Hi I might be dumb but I read in many messages "my bike is overheating I might have to change the radiator cap". Up to me the radiator cap only need to be changed if it leaks. Am I true about this cap?

Thanks

Andre, Montreal
 

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I am a stockbroker, not a mechanic. After saying that, here is what i would say.

There is still a spring in there on the cap, which can and does controll pressure.

over a period of time, that spring can do what any spring does, loose it's "spring."

Leaking is only one of the reasons for replacing a cap, i have had to do it on another

addiction i have a yardfull of WWII flatfender jeeps.

ron
 

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Ydna wrote:
:stumped: Hi I might be dumb but I read in many messages "my bike is overheating I might have to change the radiator cap". Up to me the radiator cap only need to be changed if it leaks. Am I true about this cap?

Thanks

Andre, Montreal

A weak cap can cause the system to operate at a lower pressure which in turn willallow the coolent to boil at a lower temp. So the cap does not control temperature, but it allows the system to have a higher temp without boiling. If the system is getting too hot, then it may be lack of coolent/airflow. or coolent flow.

Poor spark can contribute to higher temps.
 

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Gumpy,
Here is another take on all this. I have a 84 1200 A that I bought last year and had the same overheat problem. Everything checked out OK with t-stat and radiator seemed clean to me and water flowed well. The PO took pretty good care of it so I went in a little different direction. I drilled (8) 1/16 dia holes around the t-stat and stuck it back in. It is enough to keep fluid moving and slow the heat up process if you do a lot of city driving. I am not recommending this as a solution but just another piece of data to consider. Keep in mind I live in Milwaukee where is does not get that warm during the summer but enough to drive the engine temps up in stop and go traffic in quick order. Since doing this I have not had any high temp issues while in normal traffic and on the road at 70mph it never goes over 5 lines. Fan comes on sometimes in stop and go traffic but never nearly as often as when I picked the bike up, and it will go off once I am moving again. I rode the bike during the winter, mid 20's, after letting it warm up and it held temps just fine, problem was, I could not hold my own temps and had to get off after 20 miles or so. LOL.
I plan to boil the rad this year and see where it goes and then look at carb set ups cuz it does run rich but for now I am on the road, season is short in Wisconsin.

Good Luck,
Toolman
 

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Well, here is i think the end of this story. Had the radiator dipped and rodded, installed a new thermostat. Had a little trouble getting the lower hose intake sealed to the engine, but some gasket sealer held. Road the bike as a test this afternoon in probable 90 degree heat, it is phoenix. Bout 50 miles all together.

City traffic, highway combined. Got it a little past half way in the stop and go, and down on the highway to almost the far left of the guage.

I think my mechanic was right, these old bikes build up sediment in the radiator.

ron
 
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