[Bob.Huff]

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I'd like to paint my wing. I bought the 1500 from a friend. Had 50K on it. The only thing I don't like is the guy put some pretty ugly decals and striping on it. I'd like to strip it down and repaint (I've done some auto painting and bike painting in the past) but a) I'm not sure how to strip it all down, b) how to get all the decals off. Since it's all plastic I really hesitate to sand anything. c) The previous owner had a knee pad on the sides of the tank that left some small holes in the tank when he removed (and lost) them. I want to paint it the original red and then get a pro to paint some pretty designs and striping at the next rally. Ideas/ Suggestions?

 

[gaspredator]

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I am in the process of undertaking the arduous task of painting my 1500 also. The biggest part of the project will be the prep work after you remove all the pieces off the bike of course. I have researched, researched, and researched some more. I have been told to wet sand all pieces to be sanded with 400 grit paper, by hand, with a flexible sanding block. Clean all parts with "prep-all" or similar to remove all oils and waxes. I am not going to sell the bike so I'm using a color that I like. It is burgundy metallic urethane auto paint. I am also adding larger metal flake to the paint. I will then apply 3-4 coats of clear coat urethane. So far I have done the trunk and the saddlebags. It took me about 16 hours of prep work, and about 4 hours of painting. (I am limited on down time for the bike due to being a daily driver unless there's snow). I felt that doing it in stages would work best for me, but I would do it all at once if possible. I have invested about $250.00 in paint and supplies, but there is enough paint to do 2 goldwings. Look on e-bay under auto paint and you will find everything you need. My research showed the best paint to be urethane based. (best durability and UV protection.) I am very pleased with the outcome of the project so far. I had checked with numerous "paint shops" and the cheapest that I could find in my area was $500.00 if I brought in all the pieces and they were already prepped. The price for prep and painting was $900.00. My suggestion: if you have the time, pateince for a project that will seem to never end, and the desire to truly have the best looking 'wing around customized by you, DO IT>:action:

 

[DickKelso]

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A very good motorcycle painter I know recommends media blasting to get rid of decals, stripes, etc.on plastic parts. Don't use sand blasting, that's for metal parts.The plastic used in media blasting removes the adhesive and related gunk. Then prime and wet sand with 400 or finer, to get a good tooth for the new paint. Good luck, Dick

 

[scuba57]

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My thoughts on painting. First to remove the decals with a decal remover spray. This whould also get the glue. Be cautious of this process as paint has a tendency to be raised where the decal glue was. I recommend this process.

1. Remove decals and glue

2. Wipe with wax and grease remover, putting on liquid with a rag and wiping off before it dries. do this two or three times.

3. Wet sand with 400 grit wet or dry sanding paper

4, Prime with a urethane primer (use urethane because of its flexability)

5. Guide coat, ( a dusting of black paint)

6. Block sand with 400 again wet, if there are any black left from the black guide coat sand more or prime again and re guide coat

7. When all of the black sands out, clean with a pre paint cleaner

8. 'Wipe all panels with a tack cloth ( use a clear coat cloth)

9. Spray Urethane paint ( I use Diamont paint ( a BASF product)

10 Clear coat with 4 coats of clear

11. Let dry for a day, and be anxious to start putting back together, but wait.

12. Color sand with 1500 grit wet then polish with compounds, i have used a 5 step mcguire but am in the process of trying a single stage compound with a couple different pads. going to try it on black, if it works there it will work anywhere.

13. now replace tupperware and ride

 

[jimsjinx]

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Scuba has got it down! Also, I don't try to sand out every chip in the old paint, I use spot putty to get them level with the surrounding area, and prime em. Trying to feather out a chip can make a wavey spot if you don't really keep the sanding block flat. I have seen guys sand the decals flush and when the shine is so deep when done, looks all wavey and the lines are crooked. Keep that block FLAT!! Have fun, and how bout a pic or two?! jimsjinx

 

[tallyho]

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I'm in the final stages of a total paint of my GL1500. I'm now in the polishing stage and hope to start putting the pieces back on the bike over the next couple of days. To remove decals, emblems, etc I used Goof off. Then I wet sanded with 220 grit I followed that with a good wipe down with PPG cleaner to remove grease, wax etc. then sprayed with a 50/50 mix of alchohol and water.



I then used spot putty for any low areas, chips, etc and primed. Wet sanded with 400 grit then applied black base coat and 2 coats of urethane clear. I then color sanded with 1500 grit up to 2500 grit and polished. You can skip the color sanding if you don't mind the slight orange peel left by the clear coat. I'm not an expert and I know some can get close to a glass like layer of clear without having to color sand. My orange peel wasn't bad but I wanted a perfectly flat surface at least on the visiable large flat surfaces (trunk lid, saddle bag doors, etc). If you look at most factory finishes in the right light you can see some slight orange peel. Also if you get runs or debris in the clear letitdry. Debris can be sanded out however I recomend for runs you use a paint planer or run a razor blade accross some 400 grit to creat a burr and scrape them level then sand. Otherise you run the risk of sanding down the areas around the run and burning through the clear or worse in an effort to level the run.



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