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Discussion Starter #1
Hey folks. Need your help. 1996 Gl1500. I have a parasitic draw or short or something. When I detach negative terminal from battery and run a voltmeter through neg cable and neg post on battery I have a 12 volt draw. UNTIL I remove Fuse 13. Then it draws zero. According to manual fuse 13 goes to the stereo, cassette and trunk lights. I have detached all these plus running lights and cigarette lighter style power source for my GPS that I installed myself. Still no luck getting this draw to go away when I put fuse 13 back in. Anybody have any thoughts as to what I should check next. Getting frustrated and my poor bike looks like a fish that got boned!! Thanks for any advice folks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Parasitic power draw from Fuse 13

Thanks. This all started because the battery tender refused to change from yellow light (charging) to Green (fully charged).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
new, AGM, Carquest brand, 13.5 volts
 

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I can't see a problem, check the voltage again while cranking (starting) the engine, what is the lowest voltage you get?
 

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Fuse # 13 is the "Backup Fuse" It maintains "Memory" for the radio presets, clock when ignition is off, and CB channel selections. There is power through that fuse when the ignition is OFF.....!! Did you disconnect the CB...????????? I am assuming your concern is "current draw" when the # 13 fuse is plugged in place.
 

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I had the same problem. It turned out to be a BAD battery tender. Try connecting it to another know good battery and see what happens.
 

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You are violating a couple rules of thumb with your test. It can be done with a voltmeter. First general rule is that anything below battery voltage is milliamps. If your battery voltage is 12.4, and the draw is 11.9, it's not necessarily a reason for concern. Using an ammeter with a 10amp or lower scale really is the best test, because now, you need to find out how significant the draw is. The drawing provided by Erdeniz Umman is correct..as far as it goes. Anytime you disconnect and reconnect the battery terminal you will power up memory voltages. Some radio heads and alarm systems can take up to 30 minutes to go back to a sleep state. Do the amperage draw test, but wait a significant amount of time for the system to go back to sleep. See if your reading is the same as initial connection. I see Honda gives a value of 5 mmA. I have no idea what an mmA is. I would suspect a normal draw to be somewhere around .010amps?
 

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You are violating a couple rules of thumb with your test. It can be done with a voltmeter. First general rule is that anything below battery voltage is milliamps. If your battery voltage is 12.4, and the draw is 11.9, it's not necessarily a reason for concern. Using an ammeter with a 10amp or lower scale really is the best test, because now, you need to find out how significant the draw is. The drawing provided by Erdeniz Umman is correct..as far as it goes. Anytime you disconnect and reconnect the battery terminal you will power up memory voltages. Some radio heads and alarm systems can take up to 30 minutes to go back to a sleep state. Do the amperage draw test, but wait a significant amount of time for the system to go back to sleep. See if your reading is the same as initial connection. I see Honda gives a value of 5 mmA. I have no idea what an mmA is. I would suspect a normal draw to be somewhere around .010amps?
Correct but I don't think anything on a 1500 is sophisticated enough to have a sleep mode.
 

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Is there an aftermarket alarm fitted?
 

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lricky,
With the meter set the way you describe it, all you will ever see is battery potential. By removing fuse 13 you have removed the potential looking for ground. As stated above test for current moving through the circuit not voltage across the circuit. Why do you feel that you have a problem? What is the current drain as tested above? Does the battery drain with everything hooked up and turned off?
 

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Do the amperage draw test, but wait a significant amount of time for the system to go back to sleep. See if your reading is the same as initial connection. I see Honda gives a value of 5 mmA. I have no idea what an mmA is. I would suspect a normal draw to be somewhere around .010amps?

That has to be an editorial misprint from a typist who does not have a clue about electronics / electricity.


Obviously it is mA or milliAmps
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for the help everybody. I've learned some stuff here. It appears as though the voltage draw is normal because of the memory stuff in the radio and clock. The amps it's drawing is below 1. Overnight with everything hooked up it's does NOT drain the battery at all. I was suspecting bad battery cell or faulty tender but now everything is fine including the tender going to green maintain mode. I checked all the connections and cleaned the grounds and made sure they were tight. Maybe I accidently fixed something. Good to know you guys are there for me if I need help. Thanks again folks. I appreciate all of you.
 
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