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You guys were a big help on the stator wires and now I am on to the 30 amp main fuse on the right hand side of the battery. Unhooked the battery and slid it out to make it easier to get to the wires. Coming from the positive side of the battery the wire runs about 4 " and connects to some sort of housing that is fairly heavy and has some wires coming out of the top of it and right below these wires is a flap that drops down and has a piece of metal running between two screws (book calls it fusible link I believe). I assume this is what has to be bypassed. Can I just use the existing screws and mount the fuse holder or how exactly is this done? What is this fairly large, heavy object anyway I am assuming some sort of relay (controlling what I don't know). I notice at the bottom right hand side aheavy gauge wire comes out of this object and cntinues on ??? Any help would be appreciated. Feeling braver after not having messed up soldering the 3 yellow wires(at least I hope not).

Thanks, Randy
 

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Randy, if we are on the same track thenthat large object is the starter motor relay.
 

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BRowan, you are correct, after I posted I was able locate the name of the relay. Now I need to get the new inline fuse in place. Gone to far to turn back, the fusable link just snapped in my hand while I was showing the co-pilot why she couldn't go for a ride right now. Have made up an inline 30 amp spade fuse holder with two connectors soldered on the ends. I have put on heat shrink tubing, taped them and will screw the ends to the same screws that held in the fusable link. Will this work or will it not be durable enough. Open to suggestions and comments. Randy
 

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That fuse will hold fine, soldering the wires is a good move. Much easier to replace the main fuse next time round the way you have done it and lots of people have done this already.
 

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Thanks for the quick reply. Started to button everything up and could not get the positive side of the battery to tighten up. The long nut that holds the screw for the positive cable is broke in half. Off to the store to try and find something that will work. Hopefully that will be the biggest problem tonight. May be able to give the co-pilot a ride yet tonight. On the wing guys, on the wing. LOL
 

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Finally found a nut for the battery. Put everything back together and turned the key, had power, hit the starter and she fired right up. Thanks for the help. Because of you guys on the forum I have evaded two major issues without damage to the bike. The fusable link just fell apart in my hand when I was showing Nancy what I was replacing, could have just as easily happened on the road when we were riding and as I had reported in the previous post (oh crap) the yellow wires were already showing signs of overheating and the connectot could not be pulled apart without breaking it. Thanks again for all of you guys help. Randy
 

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hockeydad33 wrote:
BRowan, you are correct, after I posted I was able locate the name of the relay. Now I need to get the new inline fuse in place. Gone to far to turn back, the fusable link just snapped in my hand while I was showing the co-pilot why she couldn't go for a ride right now. Have made up an inline 30 amp spade fuse holder with two connectors soldered on the ends. I have put on heat shrink tubing, taped them and will screw the ends to the same screws that held in the fusable link. Will this work or will it not be durable enough. Open to suggestions and comments.
Randy, you ask...

Have made up an inline 30 amp spade fuse holder with two connectors soldered on the ends. I have put on heat shrink tubing, taped them and will screw the ends to the same screws that held in the fusable link. Will this work or will it not be durable enough.
It might, but that sure isn't the best way to preclude future problems. IF, your problem is ONLY the fusable link being bad then doing it like you said will work. Most times the two red wires entering the starter relay also burn down in the cavities (look for burnt plastic connectors on those red wires or if you can't pull those red wire connectors out of the starter relay). If the red wire area in the starter relay is burnt then using those original screws to hook to will do no good.

To repair that area correctly you really should cut back BOTH red wires until you have good shinny wire,, then solder those red wires together,, then solder one pigtail of a SEALED 30 amp fuse holder to those 2 red wires,, then solder a ring terminal on the other fuse holder pig tail & hook it under the positive battery cable attachment screw on the battery. Then use silicone sealer & plug off both red wire cavities in the starter relay. Use splice clips crimped over the wires before soldering & cover all connections with heat shrink.

Twisty
 

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Twisty, thanks for the info on the better way. Will get to that later this weekend. The red wires loked great and the plug undid without problems so for last night I did it the way I had mentioned. Rand fine but I want to do it the right way so have no problems with doing it over. Great how people help each other. Thanks Twisty. Randy (hockeydad33)
 

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twisty wrote:
hockeydad33 wrote:
BRowan, you are correct, after I posted I was able locate the name of the relay. Now I need to get the new inline fuse in place. Gone to far to turn back, the fusable link just snapped in my hand while I was showing the co-pilot why she couldn't go for a ride right now. Have made up an inline 30 amp spade fuse holder with two connectors soldered on the ends. I have put on heat shrink tubing, taped them and will screw the ends to the same screws that held in the fusable link. Will this work or will it not be durable enough. Open to suggestions and comments.
Randy, you ask...

Have made up an inline 30 amp spade fuse holder with two connectors soldered on the ends. I have put on heat shrink tubing, taped them and will screw the ends to the same screws that held in the fusable link. Will this work or will it not be durable enough.
It might, but that sure isn't the best way to preclude future problems. IF, your problem is ONLY the fusable link being bad then doing it like you said will work. Most times the two red wires entering the starter relay also burn down in the cavities (look for burnt plastic connectors on those red wires or if you can't pull those red wire connectors out of the starter relay). If the red wire area in the starter relay is burnt then using those original screws to hook to will do no good.

To repair that area correctly you really should cut back BOTH red wires until you have good shinny wire,, then solder those red wires together,, then solder one pigtail of a SEALED 30 amp fuse holder to those 2 red wires,, then solder a ring terminal on the other fuse holder pig tail & hook it under the positive battery cable attachment screw on the battery. Then use silicone sealer & plug off both red wire cavities in the starter relay. Use splice clips crimped over the wires before soldering & cover all connections with heat shrink.

Twisty
Twisty: I am just a little confused as to which two red wires you are referring. I am attaching a pic of my setup before I tackle the issue. Do you mean the two wires coming down from the top in the pic, or the one coming from the battery and the one coming up from the starter. Will I end up with two wires on the positive terminal when I am finished. I would not think you mean the heavy current wires from the batt, thru the relay and to the starter. I am going to await your answer.
 

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Hawker22 wrote:

style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #f8f8f8"
It might, but that sure isn't the best way to preclude future problems. IF, your problem is ONLY the fusable link being bad then doing it like you said will work. Most times the two red wires entering the starter relay also burn down in the cavities (look for burnt plastic connectors on those red wires or if you can't pull those red wire connectors out of the starter relay). If the red wire area in the starter relay is burnt then using those original screws to hook to will do no good.

To repair that area correctly you really should cut back BOTH red wires until you have good shinny wire,, then solder those red wires together,, then solder one pigtail of a SEALED 30 amp fuse holder to those 2 red wires,, then solder a ring terminal on the other fuse holder pig tail & hook it under the positive battery cable attachment screw on the battery. Then use silicone sealer & plug off both red wire cavities in the starter relay. Use splice clips crimped over the wires before soldering & cover all connections with heat shrink.

Twisty
Twisty: I am just a little confused as to which two red wires you are referring. I am attaching a pic of my setup before I tackle the issue. Do you mean the two wires coming down from the top in the pic, or the one coming from the battery and the one coming up from the starter. Will I end up with two wires on the positive terminal when I am finished. I would not think you mean the heavy current wires from the batt, thru the relay and to the starter. I am going to await your answer.
Hawker22, yes those 2 red wires.. What they do is enter that relay,, hook together inside the relay , then go through that 30 ampfuse,, then out to the battery through the (+) battery cable.. All you will be doing is hooking the red wires together outside the relay, then passing through your added 30 amp fuse, then going directly to the (+) battery post with the other end of the added fuse pigtail (completely by-passing the relay's connections..

Twisty
 

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So apparently, one or both of those wires comes from the R/R which takes the 3 phase AC current from the stator and converts and meters out the DC volts back to the battery for charging, and all the power required by the bike( except the starter power)but including the starter relay power, will pass up thru the new 30 amp fuse.I must be close but I am still fuzzy on the second smaller red/yellow wire that we soldered together. Told you I was inquisitive.

Thanks
 
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