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Go to a website like Motogrid and look at the exploded drawing that will show you the part numbers. Basically you need the seal, dust seal, and the upper and lower bushing for each side. Odds are you might not need the bushings but it's a real PIA if you take it all apart and do need them, so it's well worth having them on hand.
One thing that's handy is to buy a short section of 1 1/2" ABS pipe, cut it about 14" long or so and then saw it in half length wise. Use two or three hose clamps that will hold the split pipe back together once you wrap it around the fork tube. When putting the new seal into the fork it takes a bit of pushing to get the snap ring back on. I use the pipe as described above like a slide hammer. Once you have the seal in place it can be hard to push the snap ring down enough to get it seated in the groove. If you just install the ring as far as you can easily push it down, then slip the pipe halves over the fork tube, clamp the two halves back together with the hose clamps and then use the pipe as a hammer to drive the snap ring down until it seats. You'll also need a snap ring plier to pull the snap ring out. I have several good quality snap ring pliers but found a cheap pair of Harbor Freight pliers to work best.
 

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Unless I need to get at the springs I never bother them when changing a fork seal. The springs really don't put any pressure on the bottom bolt. About half the time it's a real good idea to have a power impackt wrench to loosen and tighten those bottom allen bolts. There's a lot of info here on the forum about getting those bolts out if the Allen heads strip out. Be very sure you have the right METRIC allen wrench in them because there are some SAE allens that are a close fit but not quite.
 
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