[wsmith21]

imported post

Hi Guys,
I have a 1998 Aspencade.

I just replaced my #3 RELAY again. 3rd one in 1.5 years. Getting expensive.
What I would like to know is if you can pop out the wires on the relay box and add wires to lengthen them in order to relocate a new relay so it would be easier to get to and change? Has anyone ever done this before?

Also I have read here that you can replace the relay with the Pilot relay (PL-RYI) from Autozone which is a 30 amp relay, is that OK to use being that it is a larger amp relay.

If I put my running lights on a different relay and fuse by themselves would that help to stop blowing the #3 relay?

Thanks in advance Guys.

 

[daveinozbikes]

imported post

Had my relay #3 die. It was obviously overleaded (for reasons I know about).
Just replaced with the Pilot relay of 30A. It"s larger so fit it first then put #2 in. Also remove any surplus plastic from the plastic cover on the Pilot. Cheers

 

[Pwhoever]

imported post

You first should look into why the #3 relay is going bad instead of finding an easier way to change it. A great start is separating the driving lights from the circuit. The best way is adding an auxilliary fuse block and giving the lights their own circuit. I would also look into what else as far as accessories are wired into the #3 relay.3 relays in 1.5 years means something is wrong.

As far as the PL-RY1 relay, it is fine to use. You just have to remove the mounting tab. It is a tight fit to close the lid but it will close.

 

[wsmith21]

imported post

How can I find out what is all taking juice from the #3 relay? I have had this bike for 2.5 years, when I bought it, it did come with the extralights on the trunk and saddlebags which replaced the reflectors that was there. Also the cornering lights were converted to running lights. Also it had the chrome license plate bracket that lights up for turn signal, brake light and running light. Would all of these extras be taking juice from the #3 relay? I think I know the answer because all of these quit working when the relay goes bad, So I guess my next question would be how can I wire these so there not tied to the #3 relay, I know I can run a seperate switch for the running lights but I'm not sure if it can be done with the running lights on the trunk and saddlebags or can I just add them to the seperate switch for the running lights?

Questions, questions, questions, sorry about so many but I would rather be sure before I go about changing all these lights. I'm not really sure about electrical work so I just like to be sure.

That's why I'm so glad I found this forum it truly is the Greatest on the web for people that know the Goldwings. I have learned so much about my bike from this forum. I've done things that I would of never attempted without the help from this forum.

Thanks again Guys,

 

[Pwhoever]

imported post

Whatever isn't working with the #3 realy pulled is most likely on that circuit. I wouldn't worry so much about the lighting in the rear. These are all low amp lights so the draw isn't that great. The biggest offender on that circuit is the front running lights. The circuit that uses the #3 relay is pretty close to maxed out and the running lights puts it over the edge. The best thing to do is to run an extra circuit on an external relay and a separate fuse for the front running lights. The switch is great for being able to control the running lights while working on the bike without having to pul the fuse. Depending on how the new circuit is wired, the lights will be on whenever the ignition switch is in acc or on.

 

[daveinozbikes]

imported post

The excessive draw on mine is the camper trailer lights and the Waeco fridge. I"ve now put leds on the trailer as well as the new 30a fuse. All is well in WA. )