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Discussion Starter #1
I didn't take pix of spacers when I took the wheel off, where does the BIG spacer go ... and the little ones? I seen pix of little ones, the big one goes... between the drive unit and the driven flange on the rear wheel, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I got it that 3rd hand/arm is awful slow in coming, evolutionary wise. driveshaft wudnt go into U joint splines? I wondered why there was a chunk missing from the differential end of the driveshaft.... HAMMER TIME from person that ... didn't take time to message the end of the driveshaft with grinder to get it to go into the U joint. there sure is a lot of superfluous stuff on that bike. to hold the Tupperware on the bike. no wonder ppl dispense with all that stuff and make it a bobber. seen a couple GL 1200 bobbers for not much money. sure wud be easier to work on in the baggage area... with no baggage. Coilovers first thing , hope they work well, got to be better than Blown air shocks, yes?


poor thing has been thru the ringer... by ppl that cant seem to keep nuts/bolts in something (a box?) so that they have the original nuts/bolts that held things on. those HF 3" magnet things to put nuts/bolts into are real handy @ $1/each. I must have ...10 of them now. now put on rebuilt rear caliper, suck the brake fluid thru the caliper with 1" plastic disposable syringe and clear line (Teflon taped the bleeder threads so it wont suck air past the threads) and might have back brakes now. coil overs in the back installed for blown factory shocks that I will never have the patience to try to rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
there are one LONG spacer that goes inside the differential, 2 top hat looking spacers that go on either side of the brake caliper.... is there another regular washer that goes between the swing arm and the first spacer, looking at it from the rear, R>L? little washer, spacer, caliper bracket, spacer going into the wheel, 4" long spacer in the differential, differential, big lock nut that wants 65 ft/lb of torque. probably shd replace that nyloc nut every time to be safe?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yup, Yup, Yup (3 wise men... King of the Hill ;) I got it. 3rd hand would have been nice, but I got it!!! YEA TEAM! there is no I in T E A M, but there is a ME? I think there is one more flat washer that goes between the swing arm and L Spacer (with its flange toward Disc caliper mount, and the other same spacer with its flange toward the disc caliper mount, mirror images of each other). I cannot imagine trying to get that washer in there without that evolutionary slow in coming 3rd hand/arm, so it falls by the wayside the first tire change.


read abt rear wheel (possible failure) on cast alum wheels of 84-87 GL's, wider tire than the <83's and MORE WEIGHT. spoke wheels have some give to them, cast aluminum wheels have no give to them resulting in all road/load force being transferred to ONE wheel bearing (78% load on driven side wheel bearing)


the wider tire/wheel put the "outer" R driven wheel bearing closer to the wheel centerline and so now that ONE bearing was supporting 78% of the bikes weight (380# MAX... 2 healthy ppl are ~380# + gear...400+), the L side (disc brake side) bearing now becomes a "coaster" bearing. the end result was cracking of the aluminum hub on the R (Driven) side of wheel, clicking (broken bearings/cracked race?) and eventual failure. Recall was done that = new wheel with "wedding band" on the outside of the hub to help keep the aluminum wheel hub from cracking from excessive loads that ppl put on GL's.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
the above pix of axle shaft with spacers on it is what I was looking for, but I thought there was one more flat washer on the L side against the swing arm? I think there might have been one flat washer there, but it falls off/rolls away on the first or 2nd tire change and that is the end of that. at least I have both of the spacers IN THERE and facing the right way.


when took bike to shop to have Shinko 230 Tour master put on 5 yrs ago (delaminated now/disposed of) the mechanics were NOT happy to tie up the shop with OLD bike on the lift for 5 days waiting for the other spacer to come in to put on the axle shaft. so before doing rear axle work, make sure it has BOTH of the BIG SPACERS already on the axle. if it doesn't, order another axle WITH SPACERS off of ... for ~$12, those magnetic dishes from HF for $ are well worth to get 10 of them, W/coupon. leave one on the bike to catch all of the little washers etc. when disassembling things. have 2-3-4 of them available for bigger jobs.


small round things have a tendency to... roll away and not be found until the job is.... all done and a person figures it was such a chore to fight that wheel/tire/splines.... that put the extra parts in the saddlebag to be thrown away by the next owner that has no clue as to what the part is. when everything is done, there is ALWAYS one more thing to do, besides pick up the extra (hopefully) superfluous parts that are left over.


watch out for parts falling out and sticking to the UNDERSIDE of the magnet and .... and ordering new one to later find the one that was missing on the UNDERNEATH of the magnetic parts holder. keep magnets away from credit/debit cards as magnets RUIN magnetic strips on CC/debit cards.
this has been a Public Service Announcement (PSA), not to be confused with prostate test, PSA.
 

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The 80 1100 was the only model to use a flat washer against the brake caliper bracket >>>>>>>>>>>>>Period.

The spacer in my picture above, keeps the left arm in proper alignment, which Honda started using on the 81 1100.
 

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And that pinch bolt in left leg is last to get torqued upon reassembly. The leg may or may not be against the spacer … as to rear wheel failures, just that there's not a lot of material around the drive side bearing … it can be up dated to a more robust 1500 wheel with it's double row drive side bearing, 1500 final drive, 1500 caliper bracket and you get a larger dia. rear rotor. Just my run a 150/80-16 rear tire, paint spokes black to match.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
that is good to know...


And that pinch bolt in left leg is last to get torqued upon reassembly. The leg may or may not be against the spacer … as to rear wheel failures, just that there's not a lot of material around the drive side bearing … it can be up dated to a more robust 1500 wheel with it's double row drive side bearing, 1500 final drive, 1500 caliper bracket and you get a larger dia. rear rotor. Just my run a 150/80-16 rear tire, paint spokes black to match.


then can run a "car tire" with ease? all the parts from the 1500 that u described, swap over? I got the disc caliper for my 1200 from an e bay donor 9x 1500 bike. the calipers are the same, til the 1800. I chose to put oil in the caliper, let it set overnight, to get the pistons out as they were STUCK. the oil swelled the seal rubber in the caliper so that that seal was no good anymore... not that anyone would want to use a used caliper piston seal anyway.


used vise grips to bite the pistons to get them out, left a mark but at the very top of the piston cups that will most likely be outside of the sealing rubber anyway once the caliper pads seat on the disc when pumping up the brakes n bleeding the system.


2000 grit on the caliper pistons to make them shiny bright again and brake fluid to lubricate them to go back together ok.
 
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