Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

1 - 20 of 48 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone and thank you for your time,

I've always wanted to own and work on my motorcycle but with two jobs, no place of my own and three kids I could never even dream it, my kids are almost grown now, wife has left, I still don't have a garage or a place to work, I live in an apartment here in Kuwait, so I need to do most of my repairs outside. I LOVE to do my own repairing, but I've never actually done any due to various restrictions.

After a long period of motorcycle inactivity, I stumbled upon this beat up 1984 GL1200 which the seller imported from america around 8 years ago and just left it under a tree, I've always loved the old goldwings and just bought it without any thoughts, I'm now kind of regretting my decision but I've decided to live with it, I'm getting very old and my dream of owning my own place doesn't seem to want to happen, so I will just accept my situation and will do the repairs road side and bear the hardship.

I need some hand-holding from you guys, just a nudge in the right direction and I will do the rest.

First on the agenda is just to get her running so that I can take it to the traffic department for registration and the paper work, the owner says that it was running when he bought it from states with 84,000 miles on the clock. So before I start changing timing belts, tires and the major stuff, I just need to get it running.

So what do I need to do first? buy a new battery, drain and refill the fuel, check the oil and water and try to start her up?
once warm, drain and change the oil and be done with it?

Zero parts are available here so everything I need to order online, is there a preferred website where I can buy all I need? can anyone list some common parts which I should buy right off the bat for future use? as it's difficult getting them to Kuwait.
 

Attachments

·
Administrator
Joined
·
25,726 Posts
So what do I need to do first? buy a new battery, drain and refill the fuel, check the oil and water and try to start her up?
once warm, drain and change the oil and be done with it?

.
That's about it but you should at least verify the engine does turn before buying anything. The easiest is to put it on the stand, rock the rear wheel while shifting it up through the gears to 5th then turn the wheel to try to turn the engine. No idea on where to get parts shipped to you. Some parts that have automotive applications you may be able to get locally, like timing belts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the tips Dave, for the parts, I just wanted to know which website you guys mostly buy from.

It's great to know that I can use automotive belts of the same size.

After some reading I'll do as below, if i'm wrong someplace please let me know:

-Remove dirt and debris from spark plug recesses with compressed air.
-Soak the area around the spark plugs with wd40 and leave overnight.
-Remove spark plugs and squirt wd40 (or brake fluid?) into each cylinder …this will help free up your rings and lube the cylinder walls.
-Replace plugs. (any recommendations?)
-Install fresh, fully charged battery.
-Address coolant status. Drain and re-fill as necessary for initial startup. Tap water is fine for now.
-With kill switch “off,” spin the engine on the starter for a few seconds…this will distribute the oil in each cylinder.
-Let the bike sit overnight.
-Drain the old oil.
-Replace oil with the cheapest 30W you can buy.
-Clean air filter.
-Rectify ALL problems with fuel tank. There should be no rust whatsoever in tank! Suspended rust in fuel will KILL any subsequent carb rehab efforts!
-Install new fuel filter.

-Start the engine, allow the engine to warm up, but DO NOT RIDE!
-While the engine is warm, drain the oil.
-Fill crankcase with a 50/50 mix of cheap 30W and Dextron auto transmission fluid.
-Start engine and run for 20 minutes at 3500 – 4000 rpms on the center stand…DO NOT RIDE with this mixture in crankcase…any loading might damage your engine. This will clean your engine internals and free-up piston rings. Don’t be alarmed …your engine will SMOKE quite a bit with this mixture.

-While the engine is warm, drain this oil/Dextron mixture.
-Replace oil filter (which I don't have at the moment)
-Refill crankcase with high quality oil. (any recommendations?)
-Adjust valves.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
744 Posts
Plan sounds pretty good....
Remove spark plugs and squirt wd40 (or brake fluid?) into each cylinder …this will help free up your rings and lube the cylinder walls.
-Replace plugs. (any recommendations?)

I wouldn't use brake fluid, some Dexron would be good to put in there. NGK (OEM by the way) plugs should be available in Kuwait.

I'd also address the fuel tank BEFORE trying to spin the engine over, unless it was stored dry you may find yourself pumping the carburetors full of some really nasty stuff!

As to oil recommendations, I don't know what brands are available in Kuwait, a lot of us are using Diesel 5w40 oil of various brands, look for oil listing JASO-MA or MA2 in the certifications, this has no friction modifiers and will be great for the bike's wet clutch. Stay away from any of the oils made for modern cars, they are usually loaded with friction modifiers and will make the clutch slip like crazy.
 

·
Administrator
Xenforo vehicle detail line
Joined
·
59,239 Posts
the Shell Rotella oils in T4, T5, and T6 are okay to use, and should be available in Kuwait

over here, they sell for ~$13.00 / gallon US gallons at the Walmart stores
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
25,726 Posts

·
Administrator
Joined
·
22,364 Posts
I think I would change the oil filter, even on the first change. What's in there may be plugged.

Avoid the sponge and oil type air filters. EMGO or Honda paper filters only.

I disagree with running the motor at 4,000 for 20 minutes. 2,000 maybe.

GL12 valves are hydraulic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thank you so much gentleman for all the recommendations, tips and links, I saved everything and will help me tremendously as I slowly get this baby back on the road.

I'll update this thread as I go along.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
205 Posts
Since it has hydraulic valve adjusters which may have gone dry sitting, be advised it takes quite a bit of cranking to get them pressurized. The motor will sound like it has no compression. (Because it doesn’t) Crank 30 seconds, let starter cool, repeat. It may take a while.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Thank you once again to everyone for their wonderful support and advise, you guys are truly wonderful and I appreciate it.

I removed the plugs easily, sprayed some penetrating oil inside the cylinders, engaged fifth gear and rotated the rear wheel a couple of times, engine turned very smoothly, checked the dipstick and the oil was full and clean
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I made a mistake earlier, as I don't really know the history of this bike at all, or what's it been through, but now that I got a closer look, the odometer reads 41,000 miles, Tires are in GREAT shape, no cracks, very soft and supple, tire code is Nov 2010.

If I'm a VERY slow and careful rider, do you still advise to buy two new tires? I rarely go above 50 mph
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Removed the bodywork and cleaned the outside of the tank in preparation of a tank cleaning procedure to remove rust, there's a lot of rust inside and from reading around the forums this is what I'm going to do, please advise:

1- pressurize the tank with an air compressor to remove the remaining bit of fuel in the tank and push it out through the petcock.

2- put the petcock in off position, fill the tank with 2 gallons of white vinegar, 2 pounds of salt and the rest with tab water till it fills to the top and leave this for 3 or 4 days.

3- Siphon all out and rinse, fill again with water and baking powder for half an hour, and scrub a bit using a bottle brush.

4- Siphon out all and fill with fuel and a quart of 2 stroke oil and leave for 1 day.

5- Siphon out and fill with regular gas.

6- New fuel lines and new inline fuel filter to the fuel pump.



Should this be enough for the fuel system?

For steps 3,4 and 5, should I use the air pressure method to force the liquids out through the petcock instead of siphoning out? this way I can clean inside the metal hose that runs from the bottom of tank to the petcock.

For the carbs, I'm just gong to clean the air filter and pour in some carb cleaner and see how it goes.

Once I get confirmation on this from you guys, I'll start this process, and in the meantime will remove the radiator and and change the timing belts.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
744 Posts
Depending on how rusty the tank i, might be worthwhile doing an electrolysis operation on it. You can do that with a battery charger.

There's how-to threads on the site - The "Keeper of the Bookmarks" will likely chime in here....>:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
669 Posts
Check out Yamalube Ring Free and Fuel Additive. Has a good rep regarding bringing back some well worn engines.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
Definitely a least look at the belts. Remove the 2 bolts at the bottom hose fitting and drain anti freeze then the two on the bottom of the radiator. Swing radiator out to get the inner bolts out of the belt covers.

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Thanks again gentleman for your time, as I don't have a garage or a battery charger, I'll leave the electrolysis method as a plan B for now.
Yesterday I expelled all the old fuel and sludge from the tank, I filled it to the rim now with vinegar and salt solution to cook for the next three days.

Both the clutch and brakes (front and rear) are not working, do I need to completely remove everything and reassemble and overhaul the brake calipers? or just change the brake fluids and bleed them again?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Definitely a least look at the belts. Remove the 2 bolts at the bottom hose fitting and drain anti freeze then the two on the bottom of the radiator. Swing radiator out to get the inner bolts out of the belt covers.

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk

I removed the radiator, I'll change those two hoses and today I'll take out the timing belt to see if I can find it locally.
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 48 Posts
Top