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Would someone enlighten me how to polish my timing belt covers and valve covers.

You guy and ladies have given me so many good ideal in the past that I have not finished them all but the bike is coming alive. Poorboy's Altnator convert, gl1500 rotor covers, replacing my soft slight glass on the master cylinders (Brake and Clutch), and last the Harley Sportster Mufflers. I will send pic soon. Thank you for being the best on the Net and on Goldwings.:action:





It's great to be back home
 

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I'm going to lurk and watch this post 'cos I plan to polish mine too.

Thanks for posting this question.



BTW, Blkhawk611, it is good to see you safely back home.
 

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The best polish for alloy I have found, and believe me I've tried them all, is Mothers Mag and Alloy cleaner (Wally Mart $3.50) it brings aluminium up like chrome. There's nothing even close on the market, it's a paste and turns the cloth black in seconds taking off the oxidisation, if it doesn't turn black it is coated and it won't work. My forks were nearly white and pitted and this brought them back to a near mirror finish with no effort as good as the polishing wheel.

Ali
 

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Are those covers clear coated? If so use some aircraft stripper to remove the coating. There are some options on polishing, if you already have a buffing wheel, use it (I bet if you had one you wouldn't be posting this question). You can use sandpaper, maybe start with 600 grit and work up to 1500 or 2000. Then use a rubbing compound followed with polishing compound (scratch remover) until desired shiny-ness. To really shine use a product like Blue Magic (you will get some different suggestions on the product). Then coat with a protectant like Mother's. Someone will likely be along with a better method.
 

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I:m off to walmart to get some, setting up my new benchpolishing grinder this week end, watch out...I used Goof off grafitti remover spray to take off clear coat, worked real slick.
 

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NEVR-DULL seems to work ok
 

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When I bought my 1100, the timing cover, down tubes and carburetor caps were a mess, I mean a real mess. They were heavily oxidized and dull. I went after them with Mothers chrome polish and 0000# steel wool. I'm not gonna lie to ya, it took some SERIOUS elbow grease, there were times I wondered why I even started. But it was worth it, there is no end to the compliments I receive for how they shine. After you get what you're looking for, there is a can you buy (Idon't recall the name of it), they have it at Walmart, Kmart and every auto parts store. It's a small silver can that has tear apart wadding that is pretreated with polish. I don't recommend it for the initial cleaning, but for maintainance it's great.
 

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It's called NEVR-DULL and it also takes elbow grease but will clean ok
 

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Not kidding here guys chrome polish on aluminum carb caps takes some elbow grease but try Mothers Mag and alloy no effort and twice the result as good as the wheel and you won't need to take them off, it coats them as well mine haven't been touched in 3 months and look like new. If you can get the coating off use this, it won't clean or polish chrome but is brilliant on alloy.
 

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My 84A has a lot of oxidation, too. The clear coat will have to come off but I haven't gotten into it yet. Once I strip it off and polish, I'd like to get something to re-coat instead of having to polish every few months. Has anyone done this?
Jim(inSC)
 

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I've buffed up a couple sets with a buffing wheel and polishing compound. If you start with course compound on a cloth wheel you can buff off the old clear coat. I haven't had much luck using paint remover to strip the stuff. It can be done by hand but it pretty tedious if your covers are on poor condition. There isn't much that can be done with chrome plated covers if they're pitted. About all I'd do with those would be to use body filler cream buff them to smooth out the pits and spray paint them.
 

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If you have deep scratches, pits or stone dings polishing won't take them out and may even show them up. They will look good from a few feet away though.
 

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If they are badly corroded like mine were, after removing the clearcoat I recommend starting with about 600 grit silicon carbide paper (any auto parts store) and progress to 2000 grit with continuous water flow. Then go with your preferred compounds.
 

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pidjones wrote:

If they are badly corroded like mine were, after removing the clearcoat I recommend starting with about 600 grit silicon carbide paper (any auto parts store) and progress to 2000 grit with continuous water flow. Then go with your preferred compounds.
That is exactly what I did.


 
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