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Alaskan Explorer on a Valk
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What is every one using for the crank pulley?
Are you using the key on the crank? If not how are you making sure the pulley is tight?
 

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What is every one using for the crank pulley?
Because thats the power place ,where you drive the strap for the alternator .

Are you using the key on the crank? If not how are you making sure the pulley is tight?
dismantle yours,,SLOWLY and gently.you will need to take off the spark plug because of the engine compression that may twist the cam and their belt.

when you will unscreew the crank pulley BOLT,then you will see that there is a groove of about 3/16 deep for the hame made pulley too be fixed.you will need a longer bolt and a grade 8 minimum with some locktite,,,,no need too torque it like a fool.

be carefull,with the strap cam timing too

it can be done and gently.

gervais

ps english is not my language,i hoped i was,,readable :)
 

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Don is Alive and better than few yrs ago. he switched bikes to a low HD for his bad legs.
hes on Facebook ,,so a search and buy a poor boy kit from him. I have installed 2 ,waaaaaaay easier and faster than R&R of Stator.
 

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Hello Friends,

Looking into a recharging upgrade for my '87 GL1200 Interstate now that riding season is finally in sight for Central Wisconsin. I've been doing some research and it seems there are two viable routes to explore:
1. A Regulator/Rectifier upgrade like something from roadstercycle.com

or

2. This "poorboy" conversion of adding an automotive alternator to the timing belt area of the motor.

It seems like there are success stories for both. Every time I start my cycle (with only 25k miles on her) the starter seems like it barely has enough juice to turn the motor over...even after a long highway ride with high revs. Battery and stator were both replaced less than 10,000 miles ago. So I'm exploring a recharging system upgrade.

I guess I'm hoping for opinions and also access to this poorboy conversion. As the previous post mentioned, I did a facebook search but didn't find any pages or people that sell this "poorboy kit". Can someone point me in the right direction? Don't be afraid to consult, comment, add to, or persuade about the two directions I've been concluding.

Thanks!!
 

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You said absolutely nothing that makes me think you have a charging problem.

What you say might be a dirty or tired, or non OEM starter, or might simply be a bad battery. No symptoms of a charging problem.

So, my recommendation is that you take the bike to a reputable shop and have them diagnose the starter problem.
 

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like Dennis said,25k just isn't enough miles to have charging issues but murhys law may prevail most every one uses AGM batteries and they are STRONG.Yours is the last year for the 1200 and i think it should have the best charging of them all,the early 1200 ha most of the problems,with the melting wires.
 

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Hello Friends,

Looking into a recharging upgrade for my '87 GL1200 Interstate now that riding season is finally in sight for Central Wisconsin. I've been doing some research and it seems there are two viable routes to explore:
1. A Regulator/Rectifier upgrade like something from roadstercycle.com

or

2. This "poorboy" conversion of adding an automotive alternator to the timing belt area of the motor.

It seems like there are success stories for both. Every time I start my cycle (with only 25k miles on her) the starter seems like it barely has enough juice to turn the motor over...even after a long highway ride with high revs. Battery and stator were both replaced less than 10,000 miles ago. So I'm exploring a recharging system upgrade.

I guess I'm hoping for opinions and also access to this poorboy conversion. As the previous post mentioned, I did a facebook search but didn't find any pages or people that sell this "poorboy kit". Can someone point me in the right direction? Don't be afraid to consult, comment, add to, or persuade about the two directions I've been concluding.

Thanks!!
Did you mean to say,BATTERY AND STARTER AND NO STATOR?
 

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Did you mean to say,BATTERY AND STARTER AND NO STATOR?
Nope... The battery and Stator were indeed replaced by the previous owner.

Another reason to believe that I have poor recharging, is that when sitting at a stop light with my signal on, I can see the dash lights dimming on the same cadence as my flasher relay. As if the blinking signal light bulb has that much more drain on the electrical system. Thoughts?
 

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Nope... The battery and Stator were indeed replaced by the previous owner.

Another reason to believe that I have poor recharging, is that when sitting at a stop light with my signal on, I can see the dash lights dimming on the same cadence as my flasher relay. As if the blinking signal light bulb has that much more drain on the electrical system. Thoughts?
That pulsating is normal. If you want a bike you need to work on, go buy a Harley or something. It sounds like you have a treasure right now.
 

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Premium Member
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Replaced parts do not necessarily mean "good" parts. Get a voltmeter and give us some battery voltage readings at idle and at 3000rpm. We can't see the electrons from here.
 

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I would take the battery down and have it checked ,FIRST,it could be weak,seen them new and weak.
 

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Hi Guys, Thanks for weighing in. So true regarding new parts not necessarily meaning good parts.

I'll be getting the bike out of storage hopefully this weekend actually. I'll start troubleshooting by first having the battery checked (any tips on where to do this?
Battery mart? AutoZone? Located in Wausau). Then if needed, I'll start troubleshooting the electrical system per the manual: stator performance, coil resistance, leakdown test, regulator/rectifier test. Is there anything else? Is there a recommended order of things to check?

I have to do something, the bike barely turns over and starts sometimes. I've held my breath a couple times when I was far from home.
 

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You've listed so many things to do that I'm confused. Are you raising the Titanic? >:)

Really, all you need to do is test the battery under load. Most places that sell batteries can do that for you.

Then put a volt meter to the battery terminals and check the voltage with the motor at idle and running around 3K RPM.
An OEM regulator should give you around 15V @ idle and 13V @ 3K.

If the battery passes the load test you will have to pull the starter and do some maintenance on it.
 

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Junior Grue
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Ummm, Dennis, you got a typo


OEM regulator should give you around 15V @ idle


not going to be near that high, more like 12V
That is not a typo. the 1200 will charge between 14 and 15V at idle. Once the cooling fan comes on and with the brake lights on it will drop to about 13V.
 

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I checked the Haynes manual for the GL1200 and found the following values:

@ 950 RPM: Minus 1 to zero amps, above 12 volts
@3000 RPM: Zero to 3 amps, 14V - 15V
@5000 RPM: Zero to 8 amps, 14V - 15V

How do those look?
 

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Average Goldwing Rider
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Well I pulled her out of storage yesterday. I actually tried a few days before that but it only sluggishly turned over 6 or 7 times before it was completely out of juice. I put a battery charger on it set at 2 amps for two days. And it still only had a few cranks before she was out of juice. So I replaced the battery with a Duralast Gold ETX18L. It fired up brilliantly and immediately. In fact, I've never heard the starter turn that fast before. I think I had a bum battery the entire time I've owned the thing (only since June of last year).

In addition, the battery that I took out was a Walmart brand (Yuasa) and only boasted 230 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA). The new battery I installed puts out 330 CCA.

So for now, as long as my battery stays happy and healthy, I think my issue is resolved... Bad Battery.
 
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