I think the guy making kits has stopped. So now it is a DIY project. If you search the posts, you can find most of the details you will need.
Poorboy alternator kit for GL1200
I am in need of a poorboy alternator kit for my '85 GL1200. Anyone know where to look? Thanks.
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What makes you think you need one? I'd be willing to bet more than 50% of those installed weren't needed.
And, replacing the stator is probably easier than altering the bike for any car alternator kit.
And, replacing the stator is probably easier than altering the bike for any car alternator kit.
Poor Boy has passed away, several years ago.
I have an Email from him just prior to that, and he said he is in "bad health" and that was the last that I heard from him, until later when I saw an Obit.
I have an Email from him just prior to that, and he said he is in "bad health" and that was the last that I heard from him, until later when I saw an Obit.
I did one on my 85. Builti it all myself from online pictures. I enjoyed doing it. Been 4 years, still working good.
I did my own with parts I fabricated out of angle iron and a chevy one-wire mini alternator. message me off line if you want help as I don't check this site often. Also, look up on youtube for video on Gl1200 alternator conversion, esp. one by 'Chris Earlywine' it will help you judge if you want to go that route)I am in need of a poorboy alternator kit for my '85 GL1200. Anyone know where to look? Thanks.
Well, I've been through that process on two occasions and my opinion is that the $1000 it takes for the shop to do it is worth it. The engine really doesn't have to come out of the frame, but it has to be just as disconnected as if you were going to. It has to be able to be rotated so that the can where the stator lives can be removed.What makes you think you need one? I'd be willing to bet more than 50% of those installed weren't needed.
And, replacing the stator is probably easier than altering the bike for any car alternator kit.
i'm on my second 1200. The first thing I did was to solder the stator wires together.....and it went out anyway!!! What's up with that? It ony takes about 15 minutes to switch out the stator, but it takes a day and a half to get to it and then put the engine bac in place.
i have ordered a chevy, mini, one wire alternator. I need to order a pully for the crankshaft, a belt and create the brackets. I'm 80 now and just don't feel like taking the engine out. i've ohmed the windings and they are ALL THREE OPEN!!! i don't trust the regulator either. I ohmed it out and it just didn't look right, so I'm going a different route this time..
Thanks, everyone, for all the support. I've found lots of great info on this sight.
Be blessed, DT
Dennis is adamant in staying Stock.
Stators are not worth a damn, I would prefer the Alternator route every time.
With care, they can be totally hidden, so what is the difference, except with an Alternator you get much better reliability and easier to repair if needed.
Stators are not worth a damn, I would prefer the Alternator route every time.
With care, they can be totally hidden, so what is the difference, except with an Alternator you get much better reliability and easier to repair if needed.
While the stator is what dies, I think the real bad guy here is the shunt regulator. Switch to a series regulator and I bet the stator would last forever.
I agree with you on that, but convincing people to buy a Series Regulator is a monumental task.While the stator is what dies, I think the real bad guy here is the shunt regulator. Switch to a series regulator and I bet the stator would last forever.
I've looked into the series regulators and can't find anything designed and made for this bike. They all require relocating the unit and rewiring the bike's charging system.
Dennis,how involved would you say the wiring is?
Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk
I honestly don't know. However, the units I've seen don't use the same plugs, and won't fit in the stock location.
Chuck installed one, and it did good.
MOSFET Regulator in GL1200 - Works Great!
I would just call up roadster Cycle
and ask them which one fits your bike.
don't guess.
MOSFET Regulator in GL1200 - Works Great!
I would just call up roadster Cycle
and ask them which one fits your bike.
don't guess.
The newer shunt regulators use internal MOSFET components (no such animal as a MOSFET RR - shunt or series). These shunt RRs are generally a 5 wire unit, 3 stator wires and a positive and negative connection - no sense wire. The sensing is through the positive wire. These units are generally larger as well. The series RRs are larger again and do require a new spot to be installed in. Same wiring - 3 stator, and a negative and positive connection.
Most connect the stator wires with the positive/negative directly to the battery. Need to cap or remove the existing RR connector(s) making sure there are no live wires that can go to ground.
Think a key issue is the cleanliness of all connectors. Crud/dirt build up is not your friend.
Most connect the stator wires with the positive/negative directly to the battery. Need to cap or remove the existing RR connector(s) making sure there are no live wires that can go to ground.
Think a key issue is the cleanliness of all connectors. Crud/dirt build up is not your friend.
John, that link is a dead end.
The main issue is they need cooling so tucked in the shelter or under the seat is no good. Should be in an air stream somewhere.
I don't know about that John! It only took one (1) response from you to get me to buy one for my 1983 Aspencade!I agree with you on that, but convincing people to buy a Series Regulator is a monumental task.
Alan1 - 20 of 38 Posts
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