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Hi guys, might be checking out a '78 wing,what should I be looking for,what were the problems and issuesfor this year, and is there something abouta driveshaft grease problem? Thanks Denny
 

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For a 30+ year old machine, the problems are just that; being 30+ years old.

I've had many bikes over the years, but I've walked away from many possible deals not because of the bike, but because of the covertness of Billy-Bob and his Emporium. Alot of 1000's have led rough lives but if the PO is honest, and the bike is what you want....
 

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Piaggio MP3, was 02 GL1800
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Denny, I think what you are experiencing here is a holiday weekend. A goodly number of our bunch were out on a M&G and a lot have been off taking holiday runs for the long weekend.

It will pick up, just have a bit 'o patience.
 

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1993 gl1500, 1976 gl1000
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For starters, if it looks like it has been stored outside---rust, faded paint, etc., walk away from it. You will have nothing but problems.

Assuming it passes that test, look for:
-cylinder compression. If you can't test compression, see if you can at least pull the spark plugs. They will tell a story.
-look for rust perforation on the frame under the engine, especially the centre stand pivot.
-mufflers will usually rust out underneath, where the exhaust pipe joins the muffler.
-put bike on center stand and check for run-out on both wheels. Make sure they are straight.
-open the side cover on the left side of the fake gas tank. See if the wiring has been butchered or if it looks intact.
-Open oil filler cap and look for white milky stuff inside. It means the antifreeze is leaking into the oil.
-look under the bike, on the garage floor after it has been parked overnight. Even a few drips of oil or antifreeze on the floor means it could be leaking through the weep hole which means the water pump seal is shot--a big job to fix.
-inspect frame carefully for cracks, dents or welds.
-watch the voltmeter while the engine is running. It may drop a bit below 12 volts at idle but should easily climb to 14 if you rev the engine a bit. If not, then probably alternator or regulator problems
-turn the kill switch off and crank the engine for about 10 seconds. Make sure it will still crank strongly. Otherwise, battery is likely weak.
-look for corrosion in battery compartment.
-check that speedo and tachometer both work and that the needles don't bounce around. Look for water droplets or misting on the underside of the glass.
-see if the rear shocks are the factory originals. If so, they are shot and you will need to replace them. About $200
-If possible, inspect the inside of gas tank for rust.
-check that neutral light works. If not, it is a PITA to fix.

-watch the exhaust while engine is running. Blue smoke means bad piston rings or valves, black smoke means carb problems, white smoke with a sweet smell meansblown head gasket or worse.
 

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Thanks gofast,all good points for sure,how about the dry drive shaft,is there any truth to that,and the rivits on the comstars,could that be a problem? Thanks for the replies!
 

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Unfortunately,you won't know what condition the drive shaft splines are in until you open it up. I have never heard of problems with the rivets on the Comstars. Mine is 30 years old and still tight as when new.
 

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Thanks for the information gofast.
I have an"opportunity" to by a '75 gl1000 for a grand. However the paint is faded and there are some other cosmetic problems. It also ride hot???? I know its going to take some work to clean it up. But I am wondering whether its worth it or not.

I will go through the test you mentioned and try and gleam more form whats there. I just wonder if $1000 for a running '75 Goldwing is too much?

Thanks,
Zorba
 

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Hard to put a price on it because of regional differences in pricing, supply/demand etc. My gut feeling is that for $1K I would want it to be in better than just running condition i.e. always stored indoors, well maintained, etc.
 
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