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I could use alittle help from my freinds.

I have a 96 wing and the bike just stop running twice at idle. Check battery and it showed half charged both times. I recharged the battery and check volt, show 12.7. Start it up voltsdrop to 12. when at idle, increase rpms volts go upto12.8 and some times 13.2. Turn my driving lights on and/or ring of fire the volts drop even more at idle, increase rpms volt show the same 12.8. does this mean the alt is going bad?
 

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Sounds like your alternator brushes are stuck/dirty or need replacing. Not a bad job. Change the brushes, the rear alt bearing, and the rubber vibration dampers at the front of the alt, if you decide to tear it down. About $30 in parts, and 2-3 hours, if you've never done it before.
 

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I don't pretend to know about the gl1500's, but in general you want to check the AC output of your alternator. Older Wings run from 17v to 65v depending on RPM, yours may be similar.



If that is within spec's, I'd suspect your voltage regulator is going kaput or you have a bad wire somewhere.



My VFR had this issue. Previous owner slapped in an aftermarket R/R, wouldn't charge the battery more than 12.4v. I followed some advice getting a factory r/r and rewiring a couple grounds, voila...14.5v.
 

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Thanks mikef,

I've never done one before, what all is involved in removing the alt. It appears to be a tight fit. Can you give me some pointers.
 

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It is a tight fit, but not impossible. Need to disconnect the battery, remove the left engine panel, and I think I took off the chrome back cover, after removing the rear footboard. Think there was also a wire running down the frame to the back and a clip I removed, for a little extra clearance. Unbolt the alternator, take it straight back, then pull out front first, as soon as you can clear. Then disconnect the wires and you have it.
 

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Good point chris in va, I removed the wire off the alt (white) and the clip of the back of the alt. (a black/green wire) Checked for volts on both to ground and got a the volt reading of the battery of 12.7 it appears the wire harness is good.
 

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I have a rod of some kind that comes in behind the alt thatis limiting my removal when I back it out. Can not get enough cleance to drop it down. Do you know what this could be? I'm not sure where it goes. everything else I can move out of the way.
 

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I would rule out battery & connections and a few other things before I took the alternator out. Could be regulator.

I don't know how old your battery is but if you've charged it at more than 2 amps then your battery is toast. If it's older than 2 years and drops below 12.5 after it sits for a day then I would change it.

It's been my experience on my bike that you'll only get 14.5 + volts at the battery ( bike running )if the battery is fully charged. I know your bike is newer but an alternator is an alternator they all do the same thing.
 

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cycleman thanks for the reply. The battery is new (two weeks old)and I charged it at 2 amps. I only get 12.7 volts at the battery when running at idle. I did take the battery back and had it tested and all good.



I did the output test from manual and I'm not sure I understand my results. Here is what I got.

I removed the main fuse B and connect a 10amp ammeter in series with main fuse B connection.

At idle It showed 3.0 to 4.0 amps @ 12.7 volts( fluctuates)

Increased RPM's to 1850 to 2000 amps shows 11.0 amps. @ 13.0 volts



So what does this mean. To me this seems what the bike draws when it is running. Manual indecates faulty voltage regulator/rectifier.
 

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The regulator shorts excessive current to ground. If it didn't it will boil the battery dry. At idle you should get at least 13.8 or so and with the fully charged battery I would think more like 14.5 etc.

What the manual indicates sounds correct, but I would still check all my grounds/cables in and around battery/regulator before I bought another regulator. A bad ground can cause your problem.
 

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The regulator is inside the alternator on the 1500. FYI
 

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I just rebuilt my alternator and replaced the internal regulator while I was at it. I did have a periodic short to the stator causing a no charge situation while my brushes were almost new. A local shop helped me with the project. As Mike is indicating, it worth having a look at it.
 

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How much does an internal regulator cost?

I am doing some PM, and I just bought brushes andrubbers from cyclemaxohio. My stethoscope also toldme I neededbearings.
 

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Ok, This bike has been sitting with out any attention for some time before I got it.how long I'm not sure. The bike did have some surface rust on the chrome and covered in dust and dirt from sitting in a garage with no cover on it. The bike only has 16,000 miles on it. I guess all this dust and dirt could get in and around all the connection and the alt and could be causing some sort of problem.

Now time for some step by step process of elimination. I have taken the alt off, I'm going to check and see if the brushes are stuck in any way.After that checks out, I'm going to check the groundon the battery, check the harness of the white wire and the black/light green wire going from the alt back to check for any possible grounding the could be happening, the test showed good but take a physical look at the wire all the way back. While doing all this I'm going to clean all connection weather it needs it or not.



Is there anything I missed or would there be something else to check that has do with the charging system?


Thanks for all the help and suggestion.



Mark
 

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I not know if the price was fair but I had the alt. regulator replaced with a new one and the stator swapped with a used on while the brushes and bearings we almost new...all for $133.00 He had to look up and order the regualtor.
 

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OK hereare some of the results I have come up with and I,m confused. Can some one explain what this means.

The battery volts is reading 12.8

First test - Disconnected the White wire from Alternatorand tested toground had volts of 12.8 Checked out good.

Second test - Disconnected the Black/green wire from alternatorand tested the2P connectionto ground with ignition on and had volts of 11.43 (The manual said you should get the battery volts) volts show less.

Manual says if voltage is less than batteryyou need to disconnect the sub wire harness connector at the main wire harness black/green connector.By connecting a voltmeter between the black/green wire (-) on the wire harness side and ground (-). (I,m lost with how to check to negatives) A reading of 12 volts indicates an open circuit in the black/green sub wire harness or a loose or dirty connection in the 2P connection. A reading of 0 volts indicates an open circuit in the the black/green main wire harness.

I did a test by connecting the red lead from voltmeter to the black/green wire on harness side and the black lead from voltmeter to a good ground with ignition on and got the volts reading of 11.43 the same as the second test.

What does this mean? Is there a problem in the black/green sub wire or is there something. Results are not clear to me.


Mark
 

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mmonsterbuck
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same with my bike, took alt. apart, one brush sticking out half way, spring broken. brushes cheap, put in new bearing. u can do it, its not that hard, there are pics on the site.
 

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Thanks mmonsterbusk, I had the alternator cleaned, checked and all is good. Putting out 14.2 volts and 40 amps.

I'm still in a quandary over the wire harness test. I'm losing 1.3 volts on the test of the black/green wire. Does this mean that the test is OK or do I have a short in the system some where in the harness or relay that is causing the volt drop.


Has anybody been down this road or have any suggestion on where to go from here.
 

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mmonsterbuck
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ss, mine will drop also when i turn on my 2- 55 watt running lights, because it can't put out enough at idle. how old is the batt. i polished armature with steel wool also
 

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Well I decided that the wire test is OK. Put the alternator back on cleaned all the connection I could. Now I am getting 12.9 volts at the battery at idle with out running light and14.1 volts at 2000 rpm. Took the bike for a 40 mile ride last night around town check the battery when I got back and had 12.7 volts on battery. So what ever my problem was seems to be fixed.:action:



Boy, some time chasing down electrical problem can really get you turned aroundand haveyou scratching your watch and winding your ass.



I want to thank ever body for your suggestion's and help


Soapy-Sales
 
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