[Bike...and Dennis]

I've had the fairing off a couple of times, and I remember it being a little more work than that.
I do agree that it opens up the work area.

I can get a short box wrench on the bolts that hold the switch in place, but they won't break free. I'll need some leverage. The bigger deal may be that air crossover. Getting it out of the way is going to be a b!tch.

 

[Bike...and Dennis]

So, the pics of the switch base make it look pretty simple. What do you all suspect is going on with mine? Just dirty contacts on the switch itself? If so, can't they just be cleaned?

 

[Bike...and Dennis]

A screenshot from the emgo catalogue showing the 2 different bases

The 'Wing base isn't like that. The wires are attached, (don't plug in) like that one, so I don't think it would work. But thank you for the offer.

 

[Bike...and Dennis]

Okay, Dave. So if I decide, in desperation, to toggle the system, I'd run a switched wire from the battery + to the black wire coming out of that 8 pin connector?

 

[Bryanlj]

One of those is listed as GL 1000 the other as GL 1100, never had a 1200 off so cant comment, what happens is the contacts get worn and dirty causing high resistance causing heat which softens the plastic and the contact points receed into the plastic making it worse, etc, etc till they are so low the "slider " part just dont make contact anymore.
On the 500/750 i have taken the switch apart before now and rebuilt the contacts with solder and/or sander the insulator base flat

 

[Bryanlj]

Putting that toggle in would work all the ignition but i think some of the lighting circuits go via the ignition switch, the manual usually has switch contact diagrams on the wiring page

 

[DaveO430]

Okay, Dave. So if I decide, in desperation, to toggle the system, I'd run a switched wire from the battery + to the black wire coming out of that 8 pin connector?

Use the relay you already had in place wired like you had it. Run a wire from the battery + side of the relay along with the + wire that was already there, to a switch and back to the terminal on the relay that the black wire from the ignition switch went to. When you turn the toggle switch on it will activate the relay and turn on everything.

 

[DaveO430]

The 'Wing base isn't like that. The wires are attached, (don't plug in) like that one, so I don't think it would work. But thank you for the offer.

It probably would work if your wiring were long enough to reach the switch, the terminal arrangement might not be the same though.

 

[Bike...and Dennis]

Okay, I've discussed this with my brother, and he brought up an interesting point. That my plan to put an electrical switch in the fuel filler area is not a good plan...unless I'm building a bomb.

And although pulling the triple clamp off, to access the switch, seems a good idea, there's that pesky signal cancel wiring making it far more intriguing. Seems the cover plate underneath is trying to be in the way.

I may be back to pulling the fairing.

 

[Rednaxs60]

To get better access to the bolts for the ignition switch without removing the fairing, you can take the wind protector (cover plate) off - the flat piece above the front fender, it will come off without the fairing removed. Long 3/8 inch drive extensions and 10 mm socket (?). Worth a look.

There should also be a connector on the right side of the bike underneath the rubber protector that comes from the ignition switch. There is a procedure in the service manual to test the ignition switch. If you haven't done this, I'd do it first.

 

[Bike...and Dennis]

My brother found this post. It's a goodie.

Ignition Switch Tune-Up ( ST1100 ) *

Ignition Switch Tune-Up ( ST1100 ) *

www.st-riders.net

 

[Rednaxs60]

Good article. I've seen this on one of the other GW forums. If you disassemble the switch, do it inside an extra large Ziploc bag, keeps everything in one place. I would still check the switch at the connector.

 

[Bike...and Dennis]

There should also be a connector on the right side of the bike underneath the rubber protector that comes from the ignition switch. There is a procedure in the service manual to test the ignition switch. If you haven't done this, I'd do it first.

I can't find what you're referring to. Can you supply a page number, please?

 

[DaveO430]

There should also be a connector on the right side of the bike underneath the rubber protector that comes from the ignition switch. There is a procedure in the service manual to test the ignition switch. If you haven't done this, I'd do it first.

I have not looked but I'm guessing this is a continuity test, which is next to useless. It probably would show continuity but carry almost 0 current.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Page in my service manual is 18-22 in the lights/switches/instruments section.

 

[Bike...and Dennis]

Okay, got it.
Thank you Rednaxs.

That is a continuity test.

 

[trike lady]

Have you contacted Bob's Used Motorcycle Parts? Maybe they have what you need.
1325 E Elwood St, Phoenix, AZ 85040 602 437 3148

 

[Bike...and Dennis]

Yeah, I contacted Bob's and they say "nay".

They used to have an entire area of 12s.

 

[AZgl1800]

I remember walking through Bob's for some parts, for whom or what? now, I can't remember.

 

[trike lady]

Never give up looking. Contact these sites:

https://www.west60cycle.com/

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