[FeButter]

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I have a J&M Integrator IV and am running my Gl radio through it. I do this so I can also run a GPS and a 2 way radio through the same headset. The radio in the Integrator IV woks well, but in order to use the handlebar controls for selection of stations and volume I want to run the bike radio through the Integrator IV through the accessory port.. When I do thatI get an RPM specific electrical whine that is unbearable. I put a RoadPro eliminator 15 amp noise filter on the power supply to the Integrator IV and the noise was reduced but not eliminated. Still not acceptable. We then found the red wire with yellow stripe that suppliesfull timepower to the bike radio and ran that supply line through the filter also. This further reduced the noise but still it was not eliminated. HELP ME PLEASE! Is there a better filter? ShouldI use 2 separate filters? Anyone have a better idea.

 

[FeButter]

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Since my initial post we disconnected the alternator. Noise is gone. This means that the noise is from the alternator and not the ignition.

Any ideas on how to eliminate this noise?

 

[BenMC]

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Do you have a CB radio? The alternators then come with a noise filter for the alternator.

 

[FeButter]

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Ben, Thanks for quick response. No CB. Is the filter something that can be added?

 

[Gimpy]

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I think the part you are asking about is the condenser which attaches to the alternator + and to ground.

 

[FeButter]

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I recently posted a query about alternator noise from myGL radio that I have running through an Integrator IV. A few guys tried to help but I believe the help results suffered because not a lot of guys are using the Integrator IV.

I tried using a electronic noise filter on the power supply side of the Integrator IV, but this did not help.

I finally called the tech line @ J & M and was given the following advice.

Power the device from the fused accessory port on the fuse box rather than from the battery and ground the supply line to the frame (not the battery).

He explained that the alternator is wired directly to the battery and by wiring it to the battery you pick up this noise. I believe the noise is produced by the changing of the AC to DC by the diodes.

This wasgood advice and probably applies when powering other kinds of musicor communication devices.

I was telling this story to a friend today and it just so happened that he was installing a bass booster into his car today. He commented that the directions for that device suggested that the power should come directly from the battery but get this: It recommended that the ground be put as far fromthe battery as possible. They recommended putting the ground in the trunk.

 

[Wayne]

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My thought is a ground loop. Any time you have 2 audio units running at low level and using the same ground you will have ground loops. I would suggest putting the battery attachment on the Intrgratr, trying it without the bikes 12v and seeing if this eliminates the problem. If it does then you need a ground loop isolator. Anytime we have 2 audio units that are powered from same 12v system, audio unit & satellite radio, we put a GLI in line with the Aux connection.
Also we never go directly to the battery for any connection of audio equipment due to the rectifier dumping directly into the battery causing much of the noise problems. On cruisers and most older M/C we use the tail light wire and ground it to the frame under the seat. On newer touring bikes they provide power, memory and ground connections that are relatively quiet.

 

[93Wing]

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Might also try a clip on ferrite bead on your wires.