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I just bough my first bike - an '84 Aspencade. There is only 80,000 KM on the odometer. It has been storage for a year and the clutch needs to be bled and refilled (will not disengage). I have been searching the internet for information on this proceedure with no luck. Unfortunatly, it is one of the servicing tasks not covered in the owner's manual. Could someone in this forum offer some insight and perhaps a picture or two.

Great looking forum!

Heres a few pics of the bike!

http://www.buildersmatrix.com/bike
 

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You can bleed the clutch just like you bleed brakes. The bleed nipple is on the slave cylinder at the back of the engine. Somtimes on the GL1200 the clutch lever will refuse to get hard when bleeding, no matter how long you try. If this happens, do the syring trick that we discussed here some time ago. Get a big syringe and attach about a foot of rubbber fish tank tube (thin petrol hose will do as well) and fill with brake fluid. Open the bleed nipple and also the banjo bolt that holds the fluid line onto the master cylinder (after putting plastic sheet onto the fairing to protect it from spilt brake fluid). Have someone at the handlebars with a spanner ready. Inject the brake fluid from the slave cylinder and the fluid will start to leak from the banjo bolt connection. When it runs clear (no air) get your helper to nip up the bolt. This works every single time and you will have a firm lever then. If the lever goes softy again then you have a faulty master cylinder.
 

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Thanks for the info. I had, in fact, read the thread covering the syringe trick. But I wasn't sure I understood it completely. Do I have to remove or move anything to get at the bleed screw or is it clearly visible?
 

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The only difficult part about bleeding the clutch slave cylinder is findingthe bleeder screw. Like Jason said, it's on the back of the engine and the very last thing on the clutch cover housing. The screw may have a black rubber boot covering itand the nipple is usually facing left (as you sit in the seat). Remember to use DOT 4 brake fluid and keep bleeding until the fluid runs clear. Should take about 20 minutes start to finish. Good luck..
 

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mjpliv wrote:
Do I have to remove or move anything to get at the bleed screw or is it clearly visible?

The bleed screw is usually covered in muck, but easy enough to see. As renegade said, the bleed nipple is literallly at the rear most point on the engine and at the half way point across.
 

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I am going to give it a try tonight. A buddy is going to give me a hand. Thanks for everybody's input.
 

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The clutch bled out nicely using gravity and a few well timed handle pulls. The clutch is working fine now.



Thanks for everyone's input!:D
 

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Keep an eye on the clutch operation. A common problem with the 1200s was the slave cylinder gumming up from old fluid, not that hard to re-build, so keep an eye on it. Was wondering if you don't mind, how much did you pay for the 84? I am trading in my 85 in the spring for an 1800 and wanted to get an idea of what it's worth. Thanks
 

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What I paid for the 'wing ($3,200) may not be an indication of the bike's value. I bought it from a friend and I believe he took far less than the bike was worth.
 

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Take a look at eBay. You can get a pretty good idea of what a given year and condition actually sells for. I watched the Goldwing listings for a couple month before I bought my '86 SEI.

Paul W.
 
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