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Hi everyone!

I have a question regarding pulling a trailer with my 1500. Im wanting to get a trailer, but I noticed the manual doesn't recommend it. Ive read the threads and I know every one does it with no problems. What gives?

Thanks!
 

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just remember thats its back there and slow down a bit. its easy to forget its back there but once you start pulling one you will love the extra storage space
 

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:ROFL:you are a wise man glhonda:bow:
 

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NEVER say "extra" storage space in front of the wife! It's simply there to take the weight off the suspension, honey.:ssshh:
How true that is glhonda. :?:?

As for trailers I have setup my gl1200 to tow and I have not pulled much YET but I have already once forgot it was behind me on a long open road. :ssshh:

I just found out a friend of mine has pulled a trailer across country on a CB750 so don't even think twice about setting your 1500 up to tow!!
 

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'91 gl1500
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It's just a liabilty issue, similar to any modifications you do to your bike but just cos they dont recommend it doesnt mean you cant do it .
When loading a trailer keep an eye on tongue weight , it should be around 10%-15% of the total and try not to overload one side so its balanced.
Dont forget its back there especially when braking and pulling into petrol stations.

MW
 

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Oh - THAT guy...
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All of the above. They also don't recommend car tires, overloading, ...

Sorry- had to throw it in there.

The trailer is a great addition to a long trip.
 

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Yes it's just the Liability issue if they said it was all right and you did something wrong then conceivably you could blame them in part. One of the things you do want is one of the rotating hitches on the trailer. It allows the bike to lean somewhat without lifting the trailer wheels off the ground. Harbor freight sells them they really are a godsend.
 

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So let me ask a question as I am building one for my wing. The length of the tongue?????? In addition the tires.. 8" or 10". would think that the 10" would be a better choice. any thoughts
 

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In addition the tires.. 8" or 10". would think that the 10" would be a better choice. any thoughts
Break out your calculator and compare the rotational speed based on the circumference of the tires. Not a whole lot, even between an 8 and a 12.
If you have serviceable bearings, the tire size probably isn't going to affect you much. However, logic dictates that a larger tire would probably handle road imperfections better than a smaller one.
 

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Jammer what kind of trailer are you building? I have pulled four different ones with my goldwing. The longer the tongue the better. im sure some one will tell you a formula to come up with the best length.
 

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I'm still a novice at pulling trailers, I have 1985 Star Trekker camp trailer. I've learned (recently) that when I pull with my wing that I have to lower the air pressure really low (10 to 15 psi) to keep the trailer tongue level. If I don't, the trailer dances all over the road at 65 MPH.

I'm all out of wisdom now.

Ride Safe,
Rich
 

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I'm going to build one just big enough to put a car top carrier on. My guess would be maybe 4' x 4' to 5'. I figured that the larger tire would handle bumps better than eight. and most that I have seen do have a larger than normal tongue.
 

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I'm still a novice at pulling trailers, I have 1985 Star Trekker camp trailer. I've learned (recently) that when I pull with my wing that I have to lower the air pressure really low (10 to 15 psi) to keep the trailer tongue level. If I don't, the trailer dances all over the road at 65 MPH.

I'm all out of wisdom now.

Ride Safe,
Rich
This may be a stupid question but you lower the pressure in bike or trailer tires ? Also lowering by 10 - 15 lbs or to that pressure ?
Thanks
 

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'91 gl1500
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I have 8inch tyres on mine but theyre fairly chunky ( fat ) but that seems to keep things stable and most of the time I forget its back there.

MW
 

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Richman, that's a nice looking trailer. sometimes I wish my camp trailer had a hard top like that
if you raise the tongue on the trailer you will eliminate wobbling at higher speeds
unbolt the tongue and add a small section of tube on top of the main tube then bolt the tongue to that, that will lower the nose of the trailer just a bit and allow you to keep your air up. my trailer tongue was factory bent right at the front of the belly and it lifts up about an inch then goes back level to the front

I hope you were referring to the shock air, but even with that don't you find it tries to bottom out on large bumps or bridge joints with the lower air pressure

jammer
a good rule of thumb is 1 1/2 times the width of the axle for tongue length
 

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I'm still a novice at pulling trailers, I have 1985 Star Trekker camp trailer. I've learned (recently) that when I pull with my wing that I have to lower the air pressure really low (10 to 15 psi) to keep the trailer tongue level. If I don't, the trailer dances all over the road at 65 MPH.

I'm all out of wisdom now.

Ride Safe,
Rich
Your trailer is bouncing because it dont have a "decent" suspension , - as well as mine !
The most road bumps has to be absorbed by the tires , and thats why it helps to lower the pressure in the trailer tires .
BUT dont go to low in pressure as this will destrou the tires because off heat. I go with 18 psi on 16,5 /6,5 / 8 inch tires , with a total weigth around 200 kg on the trailer , and find this a good compromise betveen comfort and tire life . BTW - i have only pulled my trailer 60000 miles , so i am still learning.
 
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