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putting my GL1100 back on the road after 5 years??

2039 Views 22 Replies 19 Participants Last post by  NSXLR8, 
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Hi Guys,

My first post on here, looking for some advice.My GL1100 has been garaged (abandoned..:( ..) for about 5 years now. I have just trailered it to my new home and want to get it road-worthy again.Are there any specific issues I should look to tackle right away??



It's not in good shape actually, a cursury look over it tells me ...

      • - keys are lost/missing, so I got to remove lock and get it re-keyed.
      • - while pumping front tyre, valve broke away from wheel
      • - battery missing, anyone know spec for suitable new battery?
      • - exhausts badly rusted
      • - front forks leaking etc, etc,,
    • .
    • A bit of work ahead but I'm looking forward to getting stuck in.
    • Any advise will be appreciated..
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DaveO430
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I would guess the gas tank is rusty and the carbs are going to have to be rebuilt. After that the rest is going to be simple.
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cyclewizard
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Mine sat from 1993 until now, it took lots of work to get her road worthy.
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Broon452
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I picked up my '80 GL1100 which had been lying in a garden for 2years originally for spares......but....when I got it home and realised there was a full tank of fuel in it decided to investigate and after checking everything turned and seemed to move ok....stuck a battery in it........and......it fired on the first turn:clapper:
Have it on the road and runs great.:D.... so maybe 2 years is ok.....not sure how long you need to leave before it gets serious
:?
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ldsgeek
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Mine sat for 6.5 years in a shed with no door or window glass. Rebuilt the carbs, new battery, tire and other little bits, runs like new. Even after rebuilding the carbs run a little seafoam in the first tank or 2, it helps. You will likely need tires after that long from dry cracking.
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G
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Definitely, drain all fuel from the system especially the carb bowls. Check the tank to see if it's rusty. Change the oil and filter before you even try to turn it over. Put some Seafoam in tank and some fresh gas and a hot battery and see what happens. After that you might consider changing the timing belts and all the fluids. Hope itcomes back to life quickly and easily for you.
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daveman
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Check out this link...might be of some help. For the GL1000, but also applies to our 1100's!

http://www.randakks.com/TechTip24.htm
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little guy david
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as to the keys. take the plastic off the key cover and find the six digit number stamped on the outside of the cylinder. take the number to a Honda dealer. they should be able to make a key. thay made mine for $4.95.
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R
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Hey all,

I am starting a restore on a 78' GL1000 that has been sitting for several years and I am glad to have found this forum. I will post pics if anyone is interested. I am not going for the "immaculate" rebuild but would like to go for a nice ride overall.

The only thing wrong with the bike according to the owner (mom's late husband) is that it need a front brake job and he did not get the brakes done because he could not longer physically ride it.

(Steve, keep us up on how it's going!)


rhillo
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babo4
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I am on the tail end of putting an 80 GL1100 barn find back on the road. It sat for over 12 years in a barn under cover. Unfortunetly the carbs had been improperly worked on and had a multitude of issues which took most ofmy restoretime.

Please be sure to rebuild all the calipers and master cylindersas they will most likely seize on you from age alone. My rear felt fine at first but then quickly became frozen. You wouldn't want to get out on the road and experience a lock up. I rebuilt front and back and now have confidence in them. It was pretty simple to do.
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A
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Thanks guys, this is a great site. So much wisdom on here. Gonna tackle the key, battery and fuel tank issues this weekend. I'll let ye know how it goes.
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ahnerrj
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My GL1100 sat for 20 years. Since gas was leftin the tank, I had to pull the tank and do the ole acid treatment. I wish I would have know about using baking soda as a neutralizer. Then had itcoated bya radiator shop. Replaced the fork seals and througly cleaned out thefront shocks (new slider bushings).I bought an AGM battery which is far superior to a conventional battery.The bike runs like a sewing maching and rideslike a couch.I better not discuss the timing belts. I don't want to start a heated debate.Hang in there and I hope you get it running. The GL1100 is a fun bike to ride.



Good luck.
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glasgowing
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Enjoy the rebuild journey guys, really satisfying especially if your doing it yourself.

But don't forget there's aworld of experience on this forum just gagging to help and adviseyou.

I'm nearly there now. Just got her started and boy what a feeling that was. Not be long now :action:
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OldWingNut
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HI,
New member here myself and I too am working on putting my gl1100A back on the road after yup, 'bout 5 years!
I did take the wee precaution of "pickling" it a tad before parking it. I can spin the engine over by cranking it with a wrench. So it's not seized anyway. Whew!
I'm not missing any parts but I have one or two issues similar to yours so I'm going to watch this post with rapt attention.

I think perseverance and good advise from the folks here will go a long way towards a successful 'rebirth'!

Good luck!
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B
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Welcome guys, I didnt know anything about goldwings, and im not no big mech type. But with a little common sense and a lot of help from the great guys on this site I got my 82 running even though it had sat outside without even a tarp in the rain and snow for over a year and the engine was seized. Seafoam is amazing, I didnt even have to synch the carbs, it runs like new now. You will love your wing, they are timeless, mine seems modern and I trust it to take any length trip, ride safe, big daddy
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A
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Hi Guys, just a quick update.
Things have been moving pretty slowly for me, kids and family don't leave much time for garage work.
Anyway, I'm not giving up and the long winter nights should help.
I removed the ignition, faux tank and pannier locks and got keys cut. Not sure about the front-right-pocket lock, can't see how to remove it, may have to wait until I'm mobile and drive it to locksmith..

New battery is on order.

Front right fork seal is leaking, so that's the next job.

Drained fuel tank and rust is visible inside, planning to remove tank and try the nuts/bolts wash followed by a sealer.

Later.
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DaveO430
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aprender wrote:
I removed the ignition, faux tank and pannier locks and got keys cut. Not sure about the front-right-pocket lock, can't see how to remove it, may have to wait until I'm mobile and drive it to locksmith..

.
Click to expand...
Are they not all the same key?
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AspectOne
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Welcome folks.... Look back through the technical forums... you will find all the knowledge you need there to pretty well rebuild one from ground up.

if i can help please just ask... always glad to help another winger
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AirCutoff
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I suggest you use "no leak" fork seals. 8/10 times OEM seals will just start leaking again in a few miles. Of course, gotta make sure there's no rust or pits as well but I've had great results from "no leak" seals.

I'd say do the timing belt because when they sit for a long time the belts stiffen in position and when you place it back into service it may or may not become pliable enough to remain in one piece. It's just one of those better to be safe than sorry things.

Oh, and I suggest you splice the yellow wires under LH sidecover - get rid of that connector and make waterproof splices.

Not as common to have stator trouble on GL1100 but if that connector doesn't make solid connection all the time you can blowout the stator windings. Why run the risk? That connector is/was a stoopid idea by Honda - IMO.

Brakes are hard to bleed on these bikes with the single big piston calipers - make a simple syringe power bleeder or something similar if you go into the brake hydraulics.

Don't use 20/50 oil - I run 10/40
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NSXLR8
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My 1982 GL1100sat for 9 years. My advice would be....



1. Rebuild the carbs, properly!

2. Change all the rubber (fuel lines, tires, etc.,)

3. rebuild all brake calipers and master cyclinders

4. verify fuel pump pressure, replace with electric pump if it is not strong.

5. Follow Randakk's "saving an old motor" procedure, if it have not been turned over in a long time.



Good luck!
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