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Pwhoever
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I did try searching for this information but came up empty. I am trying to find out the outside height measurement on the forks for the later model forks for GL1500's. Specifically I am looking for the measurement from the top of the dustcap to the top of the fork lip both collapsed and fully extended. I was hoping that someone might be in the middle of a rebuild and could do this for me. I just did a fork oil change and I am looking for a shortcut in determining the proper level. Also I have the Progressive Springs in it. I know the proper amounts and that there is a different amount from the left and right leg. I also know that unless you do a complete rebuild, the forks will not completely drain and a little fork oil will be left behind. I did the easy method of removing the schrader valve and taking out the drain plug. I know that with the forks collapsed, the proper level with Progressive Springs is about 7 inches below the lip. I remember reading somewhere that with the forks fully extended, the fork oil level should be about 12 inches from the lip but I have been unable to confirm this. If this is true, that would mean that the difference from fully collapsed to fully extended is 5 inches. Does this sound about right?

The reason for this information is I was using a syringe along with a 12 inch length of aquarium hose attached to refill the forks. After slightly overfilling both sides, I used this rig to suck out the extra and both are now set at 12 inches below the schrader valve. I just want to make sure that I didn't overfill.

Sorry for being so long winded.......
 

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I cant' help either (but I am following intently as tis data woudl eb great to have at hand)--

The only issue I see to fault here is that the 12-inch value has a spring taking volume where the 7" figure typically does not (7" collapsed without a wet spring /v/ 12" extended with a wet spring). Tha actual displacement of the spring would also be in the equation... right??
 

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Compress the forks and the oil level from the top of the tube - after the level stableizes is 9.4" from the top.



This is according to the manual.



PS. I'm about to put new springs in mine. Did you have to remove the forks from the bike to do so?



Also, did you have to use a special tool to remove the caps, as the manual call for a fork bolt assemby tool. If so, where did you get yours?





Best -



Brian
 

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Pwhoever
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On the 97's, the info I have from the Service Manual is 7.6" collapsed from the top with the spring out. After adding in the spring, I know that the level would be displaced some but I am gussing that it would be less than an inch so an educated guess would be 7" from the top collapsed with the spring in. The actual volumes for the right fork on an Aspencade and SE is 12.7oz and 12.6oz for the left. The difference is due to a stopper ring present in the left fork and not for the right but the level from the top of the collapsed fork equals out to the same. On the Progressive springs, they displace slightly more than the stock springs but not much more. So what I know is that with Progressive Suspension recommends that I go no less than 5.5 inches collapsed from the top as a maximum volume. Even if the springs displace and raise the volume by 2 inches, which would be quite a bit, I should still be able to set the level at the recommended 7.6" from the top collapsed. So now if I put the springs in with the fork collapsed, if I set the level at around 7 inches from the top, I should be within spec.

So knowing this, if I could get the measurement of the outside of the fork tube from the top of the dust cap to the lip collapsed and extended, I can compensate to adjust the level. Such as if the collapsed measurement is 5 inches and the extended measurement is 10 inches, I could set the level at 12 inches from the top(7" inside collapsed with spring + 5") and I would be good.

This information would just make it easier to set the level by leaving the forks in place, removing the drain bolt and schrader valve to drain and refilling instead of having to disassemble each time I change out the fork oil. I hope that this makes sense.

Brian, when I changed over to the Progressive Springs, I was doing a rebuild so I did take the forks off but you don't have to. Make sure that the front end is off the ground before starting by using a jack or something under the engine to support the bike. As far as a special fork bolt assembly tool, I didn't use it. What you can do is loosen the upper pinch bolt on the triple tree to take the pressure off the fork cap. Then use a 24mm 1/2" socket to remove the fork cap if you have the cap with the schrader valve. The 15/16" socket would work also in a pinch. You have to use caution when the cap comes loose because it is under pressure from the springs. It will pop loose. Where the tool comes in handy is putting the fork cap back on. It takes quite a bit of pressure to push the cap back on with the springs in and the tool helps by holding the cap in place and applying pressure to assist getting it on. It can be done without it though but requires some strength. A tip to putting the caps on without it: without the spring in, put the cap on the top of the tube and start by turning the cap until it just starts catching on the threads of the tool. Take a magic marker and make a mark on the tube and the cap. This will make it easier knowing right where to start twisting the fork cap into the tube. The hardest part without that tool is getting enough pressure to push the cap back on and by knowing exactly where the threads start will help. I have heard of some attaching a rope around one side of the handlebars, around themselves while standing on both drivers pegs and attaching the other end to the other side of the handlebars. They then use the rope to lean against to provide enough support while pushing down on the caps to get them back on. It does require quite a bit of effort but can be done. The fork bolt assembly tool will help hold the cap in place making it easier to screw down the cap. Here is a homemade one that you could build: http://home.comcast.net/~Twistonia/ForkSpringToolSpecs.pdf
 

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Pwhoever
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
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BUMP.....

Ok, there has to be someone with a GL1500 doing a fork rebuild or has one just sitting around in the garage. The only fork measurement I really need is collapsed, top of dust cap to lip. I can get the other measurement with the extended fork on my own. If anyone could do that for me I would be extremely appreciative.
 

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pwhoever wrote:
I did try searching for this information but came up empty. I am trying to find out the outside height measurement on the forks for the later model forks for GL1500's. Specifically I am looking for the measurement from the top of the dustcap to the top of the fork lip both collapsed and fully extended. I was hoping that someone might be in the middle of a rebuild and could do this for me. I just did a fork oil change and I am looking for a shortcut in determining the proper level. Also I have the Progressive Springs in it. I know the proper amounts and that there is a different amount from the left and right leg. I also know that unless you do a complete rebuild, the forks will not completely drain and a little fork oil will be left behind. I did the easy method of removing the schrader valve and taking out the drain plug. I know that with the forks collapsed, the proper level with Progressive Springs is about 7 inches below the lip. I remember reading somewhere that with the forks fully extended, the fork oil level should be about 12 inches from the lip but I have been unable to confirm this. If this is true, that would mean that the difference from fully collapsed to fully extended is 5 inches. Does this sound about right?

The reason for this information is I was using a syringe along with a 12 inch length of aquarium hose attached to refill the forks.  After slightly overfilling both sides, I used this rig to suck out the extra and both are now set at 12 inches below the schrader valve. I just want to make sure that I didn't overfill.

Sorry for being so long winded.......
Here is the info from Progressive http://tiny.cc/YJxpd
 

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Pwhoever
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
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Unfortunately that url goes to flickr and is a picture of a flower. I also already have the info from Progressive. The problem with only that info is that it is the inside level and collapsed. Now if it gave the inside level fully extended, I wouldn't need the measurements I am asking for. I admit that I am just trying to find the easiest way to determine the inside level fully extended. By knowing the inside level (which I know) and the outside measurement collapsed, then I can determine the inside level with them fully extended.

I do not wish to take the forks off, the springs out, and collapse the forks everytime I want to change the fork oil. That would be the only way to get the "proper" measurement using the Progressive method. I know that a small amount of oil remains in the forks if all you do is remove the drain plug and the schrader valve. That means that I cannot use either the Factory manual capacities or the Progressive suspension level amount to determine when it is full.

So if someone, anyone (Bueller? Bueller?anyone?)can possibly get the measurement from the collapsed fork from the top of the dust cap to the top lip, I will have what I need. Thanks
 

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Bump
I also have the have the same problem.
 

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Well -- it may be a month or so, but...

... I popped a fork seal on the way into the office this morning, I'll be sure to measure and post the extended fork-fill level when I get my 'task' completed :(

Prolly will have to go with progressives now (what a damned shame)
 

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Pwhoever
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
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Actually, I should have no problem with the extended measurement and I could just measure that on the bike. It is the elusive collapsed outer measurement that I seek. That would be for the upper tube, spring out and collapsed. I just need the measurement from the top of the dust cap to the lip at the top of the upper tube. At this point, I am in no hurry but if you could get that measurement, I would be forever greatful.
 
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