Radiator Cap
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jsmith24 wrote:
jsmith24 wrote:
They are difficult to get to on the 1200s and even more so on the 1200 SEI and LTDs due to more electrical cabling. I don't know why they made it so difficult, there is plenty of room to extend the filler neck 3-4" which would have made it a lot easier although it would still be necessary to remove the top cover to get the cap on. Replacement of the cap is easier if you make a tool to do it. I made a tool by notching out a piece ofthin wall pipe to fit the cap, I think someone else on the forum suggested PVC which would also work well.
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I've got a stupid question, I've looked and looked inside the pod of my 82 Aspyand I just can't figure out how to take the pod off to get to the radiator cap and it doesn't explain it in the Clymer manual. Can some one please outline the steps in order to take it off? I would very much appreciate it!
I've got a stupid question, I've looked and looked inside the pod of my 82 Aspyand I just can't figure out how to take the pod off to get to the radiator cap and it doesn't explain it in the Clymer manual. Can some one please outline the steps in order to take it off? I would very much appreciate it!
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Blakenstien wrote:
Remove the seat by unscrewing the two allen bolts on each side under the side of the seat. Pull off the rubber inner fairing pieces on either side of the handlebar, these just press in place. Remove the two screws at the rear end of the top cover. Remove the two screws uncovered by the inner fairing pieces at the front of the top cover. Lift the thing off. At least that's the wayI remember it, might have missed a step or two though.
:waving::15red::waving:
Blakenstien wrote:
I don't know if the 1100 is similar to the 1200 or not but to remove top cover on the 1200:
Remove the seat by unscrewing the two allen bolts on each side under the side of the seat. Pull off the rubber inner fairing pieces on either side of the handlebar, these just press in place. Remove the two screws at the rear end of the top cover. Remove the two screws uncovered by the inner fairing pieces at the front of the top cover. Lift the thing off. At least that's the wayI remember it, might have missed a step or two though.
:waving::15red::waving:
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On the 1100 there are no fork top covers to remove and the two front bolts that hold the fake tank on are located on the lower front corners and are under the fairing lowers. If you shine a light in there you can see them and if you have about 9" of socket extension you can remove them without taking off the fairing lowers. The 2 rear mounting bolts are under the seat and are verticaly oriented instead of horizontal like the 1200.
On the 1100 there are no fork top covers to remove and the two front bolts that hold the fake tank on are located on the lower front corners and are under the fairing lowers. If you shine a light in there you can see them and if you have about 9" of socket extension you can remove them without taking off the fairing lowers. The 2 rear mounting bolts are under the seat and are verticaly oriented instead of horizontal like the 1200.
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"If you shine a light in there you can see them and if you have about 9" of socket extension you can remove them without taking off the fairing lowers. The 2 rear mounting bolts are under the seat and are verticaly oriented instead of horizontal like the 1200"
So what I'm gathering, it's not a simple procedure to take the pod cover off just to get to the radiator cap, geez can we say "design flaw"! :shock:
Thank you very much for the advice. This is my first wing and even with constantly battling front brake problems, is has been the most enjoyable bike I've ever owned. There are some definite "gurus" on this forum so please forgive the future "dumb" questions/posts that you might see from me in the future - thank you for your tolerance!
"If you shine a light in there you can see them and if you have about 9" of socket extension you can remove them without taking off the fairing lowers. The 2 rear mounting bolts are under the seat and are verticaly oriented instead of horizontal like the 1200"
So what I'm gathering, it's not a simple procedure to take the pod cover off just to get to the radiator cap, geez can we say "design flaw"! :shock:
Thank you very much for the advice. This is my first wing and even with constantly battling front brake problems, is has been the most enjoyable bike I've ever owned. There are some definite "gurus" on this forum so please forgive the future "dumb" questions/posts that you might see from me in the future - thank you for your tolerance!
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I just did it, and I never did get the pod free, the air lines that hook to the compressor in the pod did not have enough slack. I ended up undoing the air hose at the junction where it splits to the 2 air shocks, and moving the now loose air hose towards the top of the frame. Then I disconnected the air supply for the front forksat the right fork cap, also had to disconnect several wires and a ground lug. That gave me enough slack to set the pod where the seat was. Then I could check the cap and coolant level . I never did figure an easy way to separate the pod from the bike, is there an easier way?
I just did it, and I never did get the pod free, the air lines that hook to the compressor in the pod did not have enough slack. I ended up undoing the air hose at the junction where it splits to the 2 air shocks, and moving the now loose air hose towards the top of the frame. Then I disconnected the air supply for the front forksat the right fork cap, also had to disconnect several wires and a ground lug. That gave me enough slack to set the pod where the seat was. Then I could check the cap and coolant level . I never did figure an easy way to separate the pod from the bike, is there an easier way?
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