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Just Winging It
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I sure am! can anyone show me the location of the rear camshaft seal and shift shaft seal? also, im not sure if head block is warped. if it is,how would i fix it since i cant take it off?
The thingy that shifts gears is attached to the shift shaft.

Remember the cam pulley?? You posted a picture.

It was attached to the camshaft.

The camshaft makes the valves open.

 

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Junior Grue
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If you're going to work on old motorcycles you'll have to become your own parts person or get a bus pass and spend hours/days at the dealer staring into a blank face.

For module one go online to one of the vendors with parts diagrams and find the shifter seal and post the part number you find.

If you pass we'll move on to the camshaft seals in module two.
If you fail wait two days and try again.
 

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Discussion Starter #225
The thingy that shifts gears is attached to the shift shaft.

Remember the cam pulley?? You posted a picture.

It was attached to the camshaft.

The camshaft makes the valves open.

that animated diagram is awesome! it all makes so much more sense to me now. ok, does the cam need to come off to replace the seal?
 

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Crimson Wing,

Maybe I didn't see it in the other post, but do you not have a service manual for you bike?


If not I will get one to you. It looks like you really need a manual.

Tim
 

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Just Winging It
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Discussion Starter #228
Crimson Wing,

Maybe I didn't see it in the other post, but do you not have a service manual for you bike?


If not I will get one to you. It looks like you really need a manual.

Tim
yes I have one indeed.
im just really trying to make sure i get things right is all as this is my first time getting into the mechanical field. my wing is my very fist vehicle ever, bike or car. So im kinda of getting bombarded with this all at one haha, but its okay, things seem to be going pretty smooth with the use of the manual and all of everyone's help on this awesome forum
 

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No problem Crimson Wing. I just wanted to make sure.


Carry on. Keep up the good work.


Tim
 

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I dont know what product you are using BUT most sealing paste or glue type material is to be used with the correct gasket, giving an extra layer of protection

With orings being cheap, and liable to fail after you have touched it~ replacement is wise- In my opinion
 

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Discussion Starter #233
No problem Crimson Wing. I just wanted to make sure.


Carry on. Keep up the good work.


Tim
thanks tim! ill order the coolant pipe joint gasket and o ring. this is the fourth order from wsternhonda i am going to make and i pay $15 in shipping every time, this is really adding up haha. I hope i wont be needing any more parts. now this brings up another question, can i put the head back on without putting the pipe back on? or can i just put the head on and then put the pipe on when the gasket comes?
 

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Discussion Starter #235
correct





Speaking of heads how do they look :blowingup:
well i havent even had a chance to clean them yet so they are still all yuky amd carbon covered and what not, but i have the day off tomorrow and im gonna scrub scrub scrub! Before i put the heads back on though i would like to know if anyone recommends new valve stem seals based on the pictures posted, any ideas?
 

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Just Winging It
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On your way home buy a tub and k-1.


Soap and water just ain't going to cut the grease I don't care what the Dawn bottle says.

 

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Premium Member
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Lightly lube those o-rings (#15 above) with a little SILICONE lube and not an oil based grease or oil when you reinstall them and make sure you use NEW O-rings.


They can easily be pinched or rolled/twisted in this application and cause a leak. You will only find this out AFTER you start the bike up and it gets warm.


Make sure the mating parts are clean. Inspect closely after you install.


Tim
 

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If you have nowhere to safely and properly clean the heads- take them to a machine shop!
They have a dunk tank filled with solvent that will return the parts looking brand new

Can also bead blast parts as needed to freshen surfaces ie: remove stuck-on gasket material

When you cant diy- let a PRO do it!
 

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Discussion Starter #239
Lightly lube those o-rings (#15 above) with a little SILICONE lube and not an oil based grease or oil when you reinstall them and make sure you use NEW O-rings.


They can easily be pinched or rolled/twisted in this application and cause a leak. You will only find this out AFTER you start the bike up and it gets warm.


Make sure the mating parts are clean. Inspect closely after you install.


Tim
okay, should i use the silicone lube for all the o rings on the water pump cover too? hmmm, is k 1 or any other solvent save in valve stem seals? also i found this on another forum, what y'all think?

"It seems best to CAREFULLY chase any and all threads to be sure at reassembly. I have seen head bolt and stud holes filled with junk especially at a head gasket change since the gasket was compromised it is possible for minute amounts of coolant and moisture to migrate the entire length of the bolt/stud with the many heat cycles before total gasket failure.. Engine oil and coolant can do the same on any exposed fastener."
 

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Discussion Starter #240
i got both heads clean!!All i used was hot running water, ajax dish soap and 3 mini brushes. it took me a few hours, they are not factory new, but they are soooooooooo much cleaner than before. I got the hot running water and scrubbed it down with soap and a nylon mini bush. i did this for a while until i thought it was time to use the brass brush. after that i finally used the stainless steel mini brush and extra soap and voila!! not bad eh? i also made sure to keep the gaskets on so i would not accidentally scratch the mating surfaces. now to take the gaskets off and check for warpage, if so ill resurface them with my 800 grit sandpaper, then 1000. after ill sand the block and pop the heads back on!!
 

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