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I have another thread open regarding brake work which I need to do on my 1100S, but felt that started a separate thread for this question would be more appropriate.

While reading in the histories here regarding my brake issues, I read a fantastic thread on doing and R&R on the timing belts, and have pretty much figured out that this is a job I am going to need to undertake for my ride as well. In reading on the timing belt issues several folks mentioned that it can be much easier to remove the radiator in order to make the timing belt access easier.

Reading that brought to mind a radiator issue that I have, so I wanted to ask everyone for their opinions...

I had taken the bike into the shop for a tire issue a few months ago, during which time I also had them synch the carbs, change fluids, etc. essentially a full tune up. One of the concerns I had mentioned to them at the time was a problem with the cooling system, where I could fill the radiator and ride normally with no problems, but once I stoppedand parked the bike, everything which had been in the radiator would immediately dump out of what I assumed was the overflow out the bottom of the frame.

The shop told me that they found a hole in the radiator, and that it would need to be replaced at a very expensive cost. I neglected to ask how large the hole was or exactly where the hole was located at the time (mental defect on my part:cheeky1:) They did tell me that I could ride the bike as is, and simply treat it as an air cooled ride instead of water cooled as it was designed.

Sooooo, is running the bike as air cooled really alright, or am I just doing damage somewhere instead? Does anyone know if a MC radiator can be repaired as they can be in car or truck? Any other thoughts you might have for me on this subject?

I am waiting to receive some brow beating on this, but hopefully there won't be too much.

Thanks

Richard
 

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hi richard there is no way you can run a water cooled engine as air cooled with all the water gone its just not desinged for that the bike will try to keep cool with the oil and when this over heats good buy bike yes you can get the rad repaired same princeable as a car ect by your account i would say the hole is very small you can get a additive in any motor shop no more than a few bucks to stop this just pour it into the rad run the bike up to temp and it will seal its self dont know what you have in the states you can get a product called rad weld over here workes a treat you might want to replace the rad cap as the seal might be gone now witch is allowing the water to escape when the bike is stoped as the water pump has stoped alsois allowing back pressure
 

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They did tell me that I could ride the bike as is, and simply treat it as an air cooled ride instead of water cooled as it was designed.
They actually told you that?
Where are these flakey "mechanics" coming from lately?

Just like a car, No you cannot run any water cooled engine without water.
 

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Thanks for the replies guys. As you might have been able to figure out, I am fairly ignorant when it comes to the bike. I used to work on cars a lot in high school (back in the days when all you needed was a screwdriver and a timing light :gunhead:) but have never worked on a bike at all... not even something as simple as changing the oil :shock:.

But with finances being what they are, I can't really afford to just "take it to the shop", and find that I need to learn how to do this stuff on my own. Having a resource available to me like this site is a major tool for me, and I firmly believe that you will all get tired of seeing my name on threads before I finally get things where they need to be....

I know with cars that some radiator leaks can be repaired, some require that the radiator be "re cored". Not sure if this is going to be a viable option for me or not yet since I was negligent in not asking more specific questions when I did have it in the shop. Live and learn I guess :cheeky1: Does anyone know or have any experience with have a "normal" radiator shop test and repair MC radiators?

Regardless of whether or not the radiator can be repaired or needs to be replaced... what else will I need to replace once this is finished... hoses, thermostat, anything else?????

Let me know.
 

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phatty of 2 if correct a radiator shop can repair it, in addition to pressure testing the core ask them to flow test it, and never run it with out the coolent.

 

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to test the rad is very simple all you need is a bath or tank of water a tennis ball and an air supply one of thoes sink pump plungers would do block one out let with the ball and pump air into the other hold the rad under the water and hay presto look for the air bubbles it can help if you put some washing up liquid in the water before you go after any thing else you have to fix the leak first as said i would change the rad cap now
 

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Richard, remove your rad and take it to a rad shop for testing. I had my 1200 rad re-cored for less than $200.00 Canadian when Honda wanted over $800.00 for a new rad.
 

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Richard, if all else fails you can pick up a used one from e-bay fairly cheap. After hearing what the shop told you about running it as an air cooled I would really be suspect of their diagnosis of a hole in the radiator.....Good luck man, and if you are in doubt just ask here, this is a great bunch of folks.... Jim
 

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I will be checking with local radiator shops this week to see if I can get it checked and repaired if possible/needed.

Old Gold, after reading the thoughts in this thread, I have been seriously questioning how much of what they had told me I can trust. Kind of discouraging to have to do that though. The shop came highly recommended, is one of the larger shops in the Denver area, and the person I dealt with each time I went in was the assistant service manager... :shock: Unfortunately (hopefully not too much so) I took their advice at face value, and did continue to ride the bike after I was told that as air cooled. It ran hotter than normal, but until brake issues started acting up again, I hadn't noticed any other adverse effects. Maybe I just got lucky :baffled:

Okay gang... assuming the information that I was given was in fact all BS... what could have been causing the radiator to dump it's entire contents when I shut down the bike?

Also, as I stated a minute ago, I am going to be contacting a local radiator shop about getting the radiator checked out. And based on the information above, I will be replacing the radiator cap, but what else should I plan on replacing? I asked this earlier today, but no one has really touched on it as yet... hoses? thermostat?... anything else I should plan on replacing:stumped:
 

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It sure would be nice if it were possible to run a water cooled engine without water, but it just is not possible.
There MUST be enough water still in your system to be cooling the engine just enough to keep running. If it's loosing water this wont be the case much longer and expensive damage will be done to the engine, if not already.

There are many places a leak can come from, help us out and have a look to at least tell us a closer area you see it appearing.
 

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Hi rebulljr

I wouldn't trust anything they say after hearing that nonsense. Your radiator is most likely not dumping everything out when you park. As mentioned a radiator cap sounds in order. You didn't mention if it runs at normall temp before you park and it spitts out. Maybe your radiator is just fine the cap maybe is just not holding the pressure when you park and there is no more cooling going on. Worst comes to worse fixing a radiator is easy a little solder and flux just add heat.

Good Luck Tom
 

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If you don't care for the shop in Greely then I would recommend Aurora Honda. The Lang brothers are good guys and they are the ones that kept my 1200 in shape for the previous owner.

I know the water pump can start weeping but you will have to ask the other folks on here the symptom since I haven't seen it (yet). Keep the folks on here updated with what you do as they can probably get you back on the road.

Personally it sounds like the "assistant service manager" was being flippant when he told you to run it like an air cooled bike.
 

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jwhitmore44, the shop that misled me was NOT the one in Greeley. At that point in time I was living in the Denver area. I haven't talked to the guys in Greeley yet do to financial concerns. The shop in Aurora is an hour to an hour and a half away from me, so until I get the bike running, they aren't even a consideration.
 

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Sorry, thought you meant the "big shop" shop in Denver. There is one there that I hear good and bad things about on different forums. I've only been in the Greeley shop once so can't tell good or bad about them although with your experience it doesn't sound good. I would do as the other members suggested, start looking for a good radiator shop.
 

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JWhitmore44, Did not realize that I had left out a rather important word in my last post until I read your reply. :shock: I have edited that post.

I wanted to also set the record straight. The dealer/shop in Greeley is NOT the one which gave me bad information. While I have been on the shop on occasion, I have yet to speak with them about the issues my bike is currently experiencing. I will be contacting them though for pricing, and potentially mechanical work.

Sorry if I gave a bad impression.

Richard
 

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if you are going to do some work on your bike a good service manual is priceless.I have two,a clymer that I bought on line and a Honda service manual,I found on e-bay.I guess I am funny in a way I use my clymer in the garage and just look at the honda manual in the house as not to get grease marks in it. There is a honda manual on e-bay now.
 

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rebulljr wrote:
Thanks for the replies guys. As you might have been able to figure out, I am fairly ignorant when it comes to the bike. I used to work on cars a lot in high school (back in the days when all you needed was a screwdriver and a timing light :gunhead:) but have never worked on a bike at all... not even something as simple as changing the oil :shock:.

You knew enough to suspect BS when you heard it so don't put yourself down.A water cooled shaft drive bike works on the same principles as a car with a few two wheel quirks.
 
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