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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all
I need to remove both radiators from my 98 GL 1500SE, according to the manual I have it says, put the bike on its stand, drain coolant, remove front radiator shroud, grill and bottom panel then disconnect the radiator hoses, unbolt the radiators and remove from their locating grommets. Sounds easy.
How the heck do I access the top hoses of both rads, cant get to them to disconnect them, cant even see them of feel them, it looks as though I need to dismantle a lot more of the bike to get to them, any ideas? :sadguy:
 

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Other side of the pond
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3,409 Posts
You can unbolt the radiators first, and drop them enough to get to the hoses.
 

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The Irish Crew
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1,248 Posts
Ted is right. You need to be careful no to strain the radiator neck where the main hose goes on.
 

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Registered
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You need to remove both Fan Housings, in order to access the rear of the radiators... as required to disconnect the hoses going to them.

To remove the (FH)Fan Housings:
1) Remove two bolts at both upper corners of both housings.
2) Disconnect the plastic strip, holding the five electrical connectors along the top of both FH's.
3) For the left FH, disconnect the lower end of the Heater Hose for the Carb... pull it up out from beneath the FH, and swing out of the way.
4) For the left FH, detach the Vacuum Accumulator (Black plastic cylinder outside of left radiator) and swing out of the way.
5) Lift the FH upwards (to disconnect the pin on the bottom, from the frame)
6) Pull the FH outwards to the side of the bike... sometimes you'll have to pull quite hard
 

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Premium Member
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Yes above is all correct, you will think the fans don't (or are not supposed to) come out but keep at it and they will, its a twist and pull motion. Lots of fun trying to put them back in too. Be VERY careful with the radiators as they puncture easily and watch the space between the radiator and fans when reassembling, should be no more than 1/8" .

You can use a mixture of dish soap and water (about 50-50) as lube to get the hoses back on, makes it easier and (I would) replace the fan motor thermostat while its out. I like to clean and use the electric grease on any electrical connections I take apart and reassemble too.

I tuned up my cooling system last year because bike was running hot, found a leak by the thermostat neck:
- New Thermostat
- New Fan Thermostat
- New bolts (old ones were corroded)
- New clamps (hoses were in good shape)
- Flushed and pressure washed the radiators back to front
(knocks the dead bugs out)
- New foam gaskets around the fan vent openings
Went on a 5800 mile trip and the temp gauge never moved past the middle even in the Nevada desert in August (Route 50 Americas Loneliest Road).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks to everyone who replied to my post, these forums really work, I purchased a well known repair manual, (not Honda I hasten to add) for guidance, not going to name any names, but years ago the manuals produced by this particular company were renowned and very good, I have some of them on my bookshelf plenty of detailed information contained within their pages, but what a shock, now poor quality information, bad pictures printed on poor quality paper. Thanks again guys.
 

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Vintage Rider
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2,410 Posts
I have found most manufacturers service manuals to be lacking in many respects. I prefer Haynes and Clymer. I have both for the 1200 LTD. The electrical schematics in both have some errors, I'm sure that is also the case with the Honda manual, as that is where the others got them.
 

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Premium Member
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521 Posts
Hi moses007, personally I am quite keen to know which manual you chose and are not at all happy with, in which case I hope you can at least take your issues to the publisher for comment, if indeed perhaps your money back, I assume you have something similar in the UK to our (in NZ) "Consumer Guarantee", so if it genuinely dosen't satisfy your needs, within a given time then return it get your hard earned money back!..
The reason I ask about the publisher is that I have a Haynes for my 1200, and a Clymer for my 1500, both have "missed" bits, but overall it would often come down surely to common sense in what you need to do in a mechanical situation.
Your findings may well help others on the forum to decide which, if any manual they purchase and could very well be of help.
Overall I guess, did you get the job done?..or may we be of help?
Cheers,
Peter.
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hello Peter
I think the lesson to be learned from my experience with the manual I purchased must be either (1) browse before you buy or (2) buy on recommendation.
Now has it happens I have just received a workshop manual on CD from a seller on eBay, the detail is superb everything you would expect from a repair manual publication and for only £3.00 including postage & packing, here is the link to the seller. http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Phils-Outl...72004018&_sid=170336358&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322
In answer to your question, did I get the job done? No I had to go to work the whole of this week but intend to carry out some of the many jobs needed to be done on my trike this week end including, timing belts, full service, and of course removing the radiators to have them repaired, going to be a busy bee.
Kind Regards; Mo.
 

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Premium Member
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127 Posts
I was hoping that the Honda manual was correct and that I didn't have to remove the fans and housings to change the thermostat. I'm stuck now where it says I need to "release the radiator boss from the frame rubber hole". I can't get the left radiator to release from this rubber hole. Can I get to the thermostat this way or do I really need to remove the left fan and housing?
 

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Registered
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2,795 Posts
I was hoping that the Honda manual was correct and that I didn't have to remove the fans and housings to change the thermostat. I'm stuck now where it says I need to "release the radiator boss from the frame rubber hole". I can't get the left radiator to release from this rubber hole. Can I get to the thermostat this way or do I really need to remove the left fan and housing?
The Fan Housing/s need to be lifted slightly (1/2") Upwards, in order for the pin to lift free of the socket in the frame... Once clear, then the fan pulls straight outwards to the side of the bike, which can often take quite a bit of force to get moving.

If you can't lift the fan housing upwards, then be sure that you first: -Removed the plastic clip thingie that holds the 5(?) electrical connectors in place to the housing.
-Removed the two bolts, along the top corners of the housing.
-(Left Side only) Moved the heater hose out of the way, by disconnecting it at from the bottom end.
-(Left side only) Moved the round vacuum canister out of the way
 

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(Rick Sheeley GWRRA)
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659 Posts
another suggestion...

...that alex passed along for my GL1500 restore:


"Suggest replacing as many of the hex head bolts you can with Stainless Steel Socket Head Cap Screws (that use an allen wrench)... They are so much easier to install/remove, especially with a ball-end-allen-wrench. Just buy a box of 6, 8 & 10mm SSCS's."
 

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Premium Member
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127 Posts
The Fan Housing/s need to be lifted slightly (1/2") Upwards, in order for the pin to lift free of the socket in the frame... Once clear, then the fan pulls straight outwards to the side of the bike, which can often take quite a bit of force to get moving.

If you can't lift the fan housing upwards, then be sure that you first: -Removed the plastic clip thingie that holds the 5(?) electrical connectors in place to the housing.
-Removed the two bolts, along the top corners of the housing.
-(Left Side only) Moved the heater hose out of the way, by disconnecting it at from the bottom end.
-(Left side only) Moved the round vacuum canister out of the way
Thanks Alex. I've been able to remove both fan shrouds.
 
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