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Has anyone any idea if the schematics for the radios on these bikes ever made it out to the general public?

This is for my '83 a with the Clarion 2 radio.I'm looking for the schematic on the amp in particular.Not how to set it up or install it.I want to troubleshoot the capacitors and the relay.

Is it top secret or something? I can't find them or even a lead on them anywhere online.

Any electronics nerds feel like answering a few questions? Simple 101 stuff?

Please?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
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I guess Sierra Electronics bought them all up from Clarion.
I'm working on the amp now.Interesting little bugger.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
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May have found some loose or poorly soldered wires.Have to narrow it down amongst the eight gathered together.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
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O.K.I got at least two wires that I re-soldered and I still feel like there is at least one more to do.Radio reception is much stronger.
Details to follow.
 

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The manual some radio schematics for the GL1200 radios:cool::cool:



:action:Hope this helps :action:
 

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Those schematics were probably never available to anyone outside Clarion. No motor vehicle maker that I know of has available schematics of any internals of their electronic devices. Only the wiring connected to it as usually it is made by an outside contractor.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
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Seems like something is loose on the board.The area near where eight wires connect including the speaker wires.Maybe I can nail it down tomorrow.
 

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I used to fix a lot of circuit boards when I could still see well enough. A lot of times the solder connections will break where the terminals connect to the board or where a heavy component like a relay is soldered on. If you look at it with a magnifying glass you can see a little crack around the solder joint.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
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Pictures will follow.In fact here they are now!

The area in question is to the left where the green wire is seen.The four joints across the top followed by the three just underneath.These are the wires to the speakers and a ground wire and some other as yet unknown.
 

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I used a small set of long nose vise grips as a handle.The grips are not on the board itself.The small metal box houses eight wires.Four of which go to the speakers.One is the ground and the other three are unknown at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
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A little better shot of the wires in question.I re-soldered three of the speaker wires (thats the two white and the two gray in this picture)and it made a difference.I think that after 22,000 miles maybe the board got a bit shook up? With the radio on and me holding the board with the vise grips when I lift it in the air the signal goes real strong.At first I thought the board had a crack in it.But after going over it with an oblique flashlight and a magnifying glass I can't see any crack.It seems like the area that houses the wires in question has some loose solder joints.So my plan is to re-solder the remaining joints and see if that works out.

The square item just to the right of the two large capacitors is a relay and when the radio is turnedon or off I can seeaspark inside where the coppercontact opens and closes.Normal? I'd say its dirty from 90,000 on and off clicks.Do you think I can get that clear plastic cover off and clean the contacts?

Both those green wires are soldered to the metal box andI believe they are grounded there.
 

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Well, you're correct in the fact that 4 are for the speakers as the speakers are on a positive ground setup, not ground to the frame. Now green wires are usually ground wires and run into the fairing harness somewhere or ground to the frame. The yellow one is an unknown factor at this time. Let me look at the wiring schematics overnight and one of my units(have two, one not installed)and I'll try to come up with an answer tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
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O.K. Bagmaster! Get'r done!

As I was investigating and reworking the solder joints the sound got real loud and very clear.I was having trouble getting equal sound out of both speakers.Mostly the right side was doing all the work.

I had the vise grips on the other side at one point as well and noticed the same type symptom.Thats when I thought the board was cracked.So if I bend the board ever so slightly...real subtle...like a milimeter it seems to make the amp cut out...not altogether but the volume goes way down.That is not a diagnostic tool of mine just an observation as I was working the problem.I don't think PCB's are made to flex so I won't make a habit of it.
 

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The yellow one is the power feed for the amp. I found a better schematic of the amp in the Clarion 1 install instructions. Both systems use the same power amp as it only feeds power to the speakers and nothing else in the system. On the clarion 1 system that yellow wire connects into the back of the tuner itself, not sure yet on the Clarion 2 system.
 

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I wouldn't be working on or soldering on it while it's wired into the system and powered up!!! You could short across 2 points real easy with the soldering tip and blow the whole thing. Also you need a temperature controlled soldering station for this type of work like I have. A low heat on the tip takes longer to heat the connection and melt the solder, hence heat buildup into the pcb where you don't want it. I prefer a higher temp that melts it quick and limits the time the tip is on the connection and transferring heat where it doesn't need to be. If you have a multi layer pcb with embedded traces then you could break those traces by flexing the pcb and also by allowing too much heat to transfer into the pcb.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
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Agreed.
 

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Anytime I've seen problems with board flexing causing intermittent connections, it's almost always been either cold solder joint from a pin that had worked its way loose through the middle of the solder, or the solder joint itself had broken away from the PCB trace. In the latter case, a bit of scraping of the insulation over the trace with a sharp knife, then a blob of solder between the trace and the joint usually would fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
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Thanks Mac.

Hey,what does this mean?

"a bit of scraping of the insulation over the trace with a sharp knife, then a blob of solder between the trace and the joint "

The trace is insulated? Is the insulation the somewhat sticky nearly clear stuff on the shiney green side of the board?So scrape the insulation away to make way for the new solder?

ALSO:AmI looking for a cracked joint only? Is there another way to tell if the joint is cold?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
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Well sometimes the sound is real loud on both speakers.
Sometimes it cuts out and then its only loud on one speaker.
Then the other and sometimes real low on both speakers.
I think its fixable but not overnight.



The flexing of the board still catches a stronger signal or makes the connection better.I can't see any cracks in the board or in any of the solder joints.

There are two large items in the center of the board.One is a relay and the other is a black rectangle box right next to the relay.Both of these are adjacent to the larger capacitors and it seems that the center of the board is the area that needs attention.
 
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