Wow, talk about being modified??? You have a boatload of stuff to correct to get it back on the road. But with the help of the people here on the forum, and lots of patience, you can do it.
Good Luck
Good Luck
> Try a heavy coat of Lemon Pledge, and let it sit for a week... at which point the heavy crud will often wipe right off....I used a citrus based cleaner for most of the frame and parts, but for the greasy underbelly, I used a mild version of grill/oven cleaner to foam away the crud. This worked well and did not compromise the metal or plastic...
> Suggest replacing as many of the hex head bolts you can with Stainless Steel Socket Head Cap Screws (that use an allen wrench)... They are so much easier to install/remove, especially with a ball-end-allen-wrench. Just buy a box of 6, 8 & 10mm SSCS's....So Far my missing parts list and replacements is pretty short. I go two sets of Japanese metrics from Cycle Gear, and I will hit Ace Hardware for the rest...
> The convex curve does not matter, so long as they meet the minimum thickness... Bike pads are so soft that they will quickly wear to conform to the curve/lip. It's a judgement call, however they are not as critical as on a car (which has harder pads)....Remember how I said the brakes were working? Well, the rotors are pretty worn so they'll have to be replaced (You could actually feel the convex curve of the rotor surfaces, front and back. But no leaks, and the pads are worn but solid...
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Sorry if I was unclear, but I'm only advising the (SHCS)Socket Head Cap Screws (eg Allen Heads) for non-torqued applications... of which there are more of these on the GL1500 than anything else... Ton's of body panel bolts for example.... I'd tend to disagree with using hex headed bolts, it's way to easy for allen bolt heads to strip, they're okay where Honda uses them to hold plastic parts together but in any stressed use whre they need serious torque I always use hex bolts. It makes for a lot easier life later on down the road...