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I`m trying to test my stator on my 85 Aspencade,but my ignorance to using a multimeter is stopping me.Can anyone help with defintions of the following "Marks" or selections on my multimeter?



V with a solid line next to it and 3 dots under the solid line ?

V with a ~ above it ?

A with a solid line next to it,and the solid line also has 3 dots under it?

Also,measuring continuity with the Ohms meter (The selection with the sign that looks llike a set of headphones:D) I dont have a selection for rx 1 or so on..which is the lowest selection? My choices are 2000k 200k 20k 2000 200
 

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1st one is for D.C.volts, 2nd(wavy line) is for A.C.volts, 3rd is for D.C.amperage.

The lowest setting you have listed for ohms is 200, the K after a setting stands for 1,000. So 2,000K would be the highest setting. Good Luck, and welcome to the forum... :gunhead:
 

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V with a ~ above it ?
This is the one you want you are looking for 50 to 65 volts AC
 

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Thanks for the help! So,is 200 close to rx 1 on ohm testing? Thats what it says to test it at.
 

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Thanks..thats the only one that gave any reasonable response..I had 57,54 and 13..so I may be turning wrenches soon.:?:baffled:
 

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zonk3939 wrote:
Thanks..thats the only one that gave any reasonable response..I had 57,54 and 13..so I may be turning wrenches soon.:?:baffled:
Zonk, make sure you cut that low leg yellow wire back far enough to be sure you are into GOOD clean wire (don't measure at a brown or black terminal), then re-measure that leg. There was a guy here a while ago that had a low leg from his stator & all he had wrong was a cobbled in piece of junk wire.

Twisty
 

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OK,I cut it back aways to good clean wire..still gettting 57,54 and about 14.I think I`m stator burned.:?
 

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zonk3939 wrote:
OK,I cut it back aways to good clean wire..still gettting 57,54 and about 14.I think I`m stator burned.:?
Zonk, yep, that doesn't sound good.Probably time to either pull the engine or add a small car alternator.

To pull that engine.. First get a GOOD manual (the Clymer M504 will work pretty good & isn't very expensive).

The manual will tell you to pull both cam belts & sprockets but you only need to pull the R/H side.

It's much easier & less apt to break parts if you don't completely remove the carbs & upper intake but instead wire them up & pull the engine from under the carb set-up.

I always pull the rear drive & prop shaft out the rear first as it makes the engine much easier to install that way.

It also helps to have a helping hand at actual time of engine removal.

Twisty
 
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