[cardkev]

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Any guru's ever rebuild these rear airshocks? I bought new seals, I wouldn't think it would be all that difficult. How much oil do you put in them?

Also, anyone no where the one-way valve is located in the system. I'm getting bleed-over from the rear to front shocks.

 

[JDuggan]

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There's been loads of threads about this. Do a search on "rebuild shocks" for starters. Here's one of the threads on the 1200 shocks (same procedure for the 1100);

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/view_topic.php?id=1085&forum_id=1&highlight=rebuild+shocks

 

[AZWinger]

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Cardkev,

Check the pressure adjust buttons to make sure they are not sticking a little bit. If they are both pushed down just a little, pressure will bleed over from the rear to the front. When I bought my 83 Aspencade the system wouldn't hold air at all. I disassembled the button assembly, lubricated and cleaned the O-rings and put it back together. Works fine now. Also, if you check the rear air first, a little air will transfer from the pressure sensing chamber to the front when you push the button to check the fork pressure. Not much, but a little adds up over enough times. After checking my air several times I usually find I need to let air out of the forks and add a little to the rear!

Bob :11grey:

 

[weewillywing]

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I think what you are looking for is the selector valve. That's what usually leaks and lets air pass through to the front. The 83 has the valve right under the selector switch (under the black buttons). There is a junction valve under the right fsiring panel as well, but this fails in a different way to what you describe.

 

[FitzAl]

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Bob and Willy are right, it's the valve under the switch (or the switch itself) that causes this problem.

 

[BRowan]

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This happens with the GL1200 as well. Buttons in the valves stick and you need to oil them.

 

[cmeador]

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Also put on center stand to adjust air no matter how tempted not to this will destroy the valve if you dont

 

[cardkev]

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Thanks for all your help. I took the valve apart this weekend and cleaned it. The brass pins that actuate the air valaves underneath were real sticky. It works great now, but I still think I will need to rebuild the rear shocks. Got the seals this weekend.

 

[exavid]

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Shock rebuilt is easy, the only caveat is to be very careful of the piston shaft, do be very careful not to scratch it and if it has any carefully polish them out with very fine wet/dry paper. A little moly grease in the lip of the seal and wet down the shaft with ATF or whatever you are filling the shock with will help get the seal in place with out damaging it's sealing surfaces. Also it's a good idea to put some tape over any roughness on the eye end of the shaft if there's any chance it will contact the seal.

 

[cardkev]

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Thanks for all the advice, I plan to tackle this soon. Any idea the quantity of oil that goes in these? Type of oil?

 

[brianinmaine]

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I have a 1980 GL1100 standard and the manual calls for 365cc in each rear shock. Hope it helps. I will be doing mine next week when parts come in- it leaks fluid on the right. No wonder it bottoms out so easy! Also note the 1980 does not connect front/rear air together.

 

[cardkev]

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Thanks, one more question, what kind of oil does it call for?

 

[cardkev]

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Also, that's for the rear AIR shocks right?

 

[jackjohn]

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Honda manual calls for 365 cc (12.5 oz) of ATF per shock. These are the air shocks.

 

[GWNorman]

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Good luck with the oil fill cardkev. You will need a bit of patience as it takes time to refill. :jumper:

 

[cardkev]

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Thanks for all your advice. Got the shocks rebuilt last night. The oil inside was ugly. It was like dark water, not oil. Obviously 23 years old. There was definetly not 12.5 oz. in there, so I'm not sure if it leaked out. The seals looked good and there was only light scoring on the shafts. You couldn't feel it with your finger, but you could see it.

A word of caution: If you use air pressure to get the shock apart, wrap a rag around the end of the shaft and use the minimal amount of pressure needed. Go slow with it. When I did the first one, the air pressure blew the seal, washers and damper guide clear off the shaft. It put a nick in the damper guide which I had to smooth out, but it will be fine.

Again as mentioned earlier the oil refill is the tedious part. I did each shock off the bike. I attached a small funnel to a plastic tube and stuck the tube down inside the air fitting hole. I put a rod through the upper mount hole so I could compress the shock. I did the compressing while the wife poured. As she poured I would let up on the shock and it would suck the oil right in. It took about 10 minutes a shock.

Overall a successful rebuild. Better than 300-400 dollars for new ones. The seals only cost me $34. Hope this info helps someone.

 

[cardkev]

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brianinmaine wrote:

I have a 1980 GL1100 standard and the manual calls for 365cc in each rear shock. Hope it helps. I will be doing mine next week when parts come in- it leaks fluid on the right. No wonder it bottoms out so easy! Also note the 1980 does not connect front/rear air together.

How did your rebuild go?

 

[brianinmaine]

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Parts supposed to be at dealer on Thurs. so I'll have to let you know. The oil in one side was black gunk and there was no oil in the other side. Also the Haynes guide show them pouring the oil in before it's reassembled. Might be easier?

 

[cardkev]

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Too late now, but I suppose that would work easier. I didn't have manual to guide me. Without the seal the oil will leak out the bottom obviously. If you pour it in from the bottom you might have trouble getting it past the damper. How does the manual suggest to do it?

 

[cardkev]

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If you don't mind me asking, how much did pay for the seals? That's all I replaced, the damper guides were fine.