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I am in the process of changing out the rear rotor and brake pads. I have the caliper removed and the pin retainer removed. The next step in the manual is to remove the pad pins. According to the drawing, the pins are removed from the piston side of the caliper. Is this correct? They appear to be frozen in place. I just want to make sure before I go get the ballpeen hammer and drift punch. I have soaked them with rust penatrent for about a day or better, Still won't move with mild mannered persuation. Pistons don't want to move either...any slick tricks to move them back?

Just went out to remove the caliper from the bike and take it to the bench and found I can't move the bolt that holds the brake hose onto the caliper. Probably going to need the breaker bar I had to use to remove the drain plug on the oil pan.

Bob
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1984 Aspencade
 

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If you are going to remove the pad pins with a hammer and drift, make sure you use a brass drift so you don't mushroom the heads of the pins. The ones in my 1200 were frozen in there pretty good. I had to drift them back and forth a few times before I could actually pull them out. After that I cleaned them up good with some fine 3M cleaning pads and lubed them before replacing.
 

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What you have there my friend is a seriously coroded caliper in need of a rebuil. Coiincidentalyy I have just encountered the same prob with my ASPY.

I used a rubber mallet as stated not to mushroom the heads. These pins were really stubborn so I winded up braced for impact and .....YEOOUUUCH.
I believe the finger will be ok, the black parts hurt and I think the mail will fall off.
Anyway When i get the courage an dstrength to get back to the calipers I will ahve to work it back and forth. As for the pistons its probably frozen also due to rust and other corrosion. Time for a nice clean and rebuild , replacing seals and what not.

3m is ok on the pins and some anti seize on it wont hurt as for the pistons I think I read somewhere that any abrasive product will remove too much ,aterial then causing a Leak, i think aliuminum foil should work to clean off corrosion and polish the part.
 

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Last time I dealt with the calipers on the Wing I used a 3/8 in thick piece of flat iron and a c-clamp. Place iron across the pistons, position the clamp across the iron and the caliper body and slowly close the clamp, making sure that the pistons are retreating straight.
 

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I must have a cheap c clap ror done something wrong because I broke the clamp . besides if your old pads are really worn this allows more of the piston to be exposed to the elements thus allowing corrosion on the parts. Pushing it back in wont eliminate the rust on the piston. For a few extra bucks and an afternoon I would make sure everything is like new. I dont like gambling with brakes. They only need to fail once for the message to ring out.
 

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:DSo you think your finger will be OK. :doh: It only hurts on the part that is black.:cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1: So funny!! Been there done that, you can hear me yell for five miles.

Kit
 

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Here's what my rear looked like before and after cleaning, installing new seals and re-mounting.

Dirty piston.


Cleaned piston, started with 120 grit to get major pitting and dirt off, 400 grit for a mdeium polish and finished off with 1000 grit for smoothness.


Dirty caliper sleeves.


Cleaned and polished caliper sleeves.


Reassembled unit.


Make sure you lube both main bolts when you install this. I used the same Moly 60 lube I used for the rear hub splines.
 

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Bagmaster That is one clean caliper. I worry about removing too much material off the pistons with sand paper. i think i read it somewhere that it is not recomended.


Kitcarson. I really didnt yell because I didnt want anyone to look my way. I just sat in one place and rocked back in forth like an indian. swearing and getting religious at the same time..

it doesnt hurt anymore but I could feel the broken nail under the skin.
Would you like some pics?????
 

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******* wrote:
when you got the caliper off the mounting plate, did the metal shim drop out aswell, it fits between the left side edge of the caliper and the mounting plate.

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/cheapcycleparts/Honda_OEM/HondaMC.asp?Type=13&A=41&B=46



its number 7


go to the brakes section, and look on the fische , it wont let me copy onto here
Yeah *******. How important is that piece. I left my brake caliper for another Day i hope I still find that shim.
 

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to be honest,i havent a clue, it was designed and put the for a reason, i done quite a few goldwing rear brakes and a;ways put them back, i would its some sort off vibration shim, ive had a couple of lads ring me up after putting there calipers back and finding that piece on the floor, and asking me what it is, and where does it go
 

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OK, I need tips to get the piston out.

Seems to be locked solid in there. Brake pads were all warped and rusted from sitting for the past 15 years.

I managed to move one of the pistons in a vice, but that is pushing it in, not pushing it out. Air pressure at 100 PSI doesn't help - not moving!!
 

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Wow I was going to recommend the Air pressure..but 5 psi.. the 100 psi could break the fingers off the other side and hurt more than your poor Finger.. I would use something like Blaster and let them soak a couple days. then try to move them in with a good 6" C Clamp..Just a little bit to break them loose.. then try the air up to 15 psi.. with a rag packed in the shoe slot to catch the piston if it comes out.. I just ordered some on ebay hope they don't look like that..
 

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hydraulic pressure is safer, by far...

try a grease gun or something like that.
 

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Get a metric grease gun zerk fitting and replace the bleeder valve with it, remove the pads and replace them with pieces of wood of different thicknesses and pump them out with a grease gun. Remove pieces of wood as needed to allow small, even movement of both pistons as they pump out.

I've never don it this way but others have. So I don't know the thread size of the zerk fitting you'd need. Take a bleeder valve to the store with you for correct sizing.
 

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i did mine yesterday. put a 120 lbs of pressure and it still took some doing to blow pistons out. then cleaned pistons with tripple 000 steel wool and brake cleaner. soak new gaskets in brake fluid . everything works great now



mark z.:waving:
 

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I personally use a firplace Bellows and just keep jumping on it,



Superr Genius





i ljust love pictures . iam heading to a buddies house today to use his know how on how to plow the pistons.

Before and after pics on the way
 

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I put a soft block of plastic in the caliper to protect the pistons, shot them full of "Kroil" penetrating oil, let it set for a while and started applying air pressure to the unit. 50# did nothing, 80# got one of the pistons to move. I applied more penetrating oil and jacked the pressure up to 90# it moved a little more. Starting round four at this time. We will see where this goes. I did get the banjo bolt loose. I soaked it all day & night with penetrating oil but a box end wrench on the bolt and smacked the wrench with a small hammer several blows and it came loose. The pins were also soaking during this time but I still had to drive them all the way out with a drift punch and hammer. They really don't look that bad. I am going to run a .22 caliber brass bore brush down the holes where the pins were and see what come out of them. Then clean the pins up and see how it all goes back together. I expected to see a lot of rust and or corrision but was surprised to find little. I will let you all know how it finally turns out.



Bob
 

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The pistons are out. It took 125# of air pressure to pop them out. They look near new on the back side behind the dust cover. There is a bronze colored goo doun inside the cylinders. I have a good amount of brake cleaner in the cylinders in an attempt to loosen of the shelac inside. I still can not see whyit was so hard to remove the pistion or pins. All the parts look good. I did see a small spot of corrosion down in the bottom of one of the cylinders, but that spot shouldn't havecreated any problems with the removal of the pistons. The rebuild parts should be here in the next few days. I saw what appears to be a little wear spot on one side of one cylinder. but it's small enough I cant feel it with a finger nail. I don't think it will present any problem whe I get it back together. That's all for now, more to follow later.



Bob
 
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