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I went to pull out my under-appreciated Aspencade and it seemed a little slow rolling back out of the shed but it got really bad after I pressed (and released) the foot petal. I managed to put it in gear and get it back into the shed and on its center stand. Once I did this I tried to to spin the rear wheel and it was stuckk. I strongly suspect that it is the rear brake but am not a bike expert. I also notice that the bleeding screw had a little fluid around it so I decided to try bleeding it but that didn't make any improvement, in fact it seemed to make it worse. Basically I am looking for the easiest way to unseize it so I can take it to a bike shop I trust which is about 60 miles away, as it's due for a safety inspection (every 2 years here) and I don't want to make anything worse.
 

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To unseize the caliper you can loosen the banjo bolt on the brakeline into the caliper to release the pressure as a temp measure. As soon as you hit the pedal again in will lock up again. The master cylinder may need cleaning of the return port and/or the caliper needs cleaning and the pins lubed.
Once you release the pressure tight the bolt back up. You can ride it using only the front brake lever if need be. Sounds like all the brake and clutch fluids need changing.
 

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Thank you, will give that a try and see if can 'limp' it to the shop later in the week.
 

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It was super super super tight, perhaps I over tightened it when I replaced the rear wheel a few weeks ago :( Wasn't ready to take the hard bags off and there wasn't much room for a socket wrench in there so I finally got the box end of a 12 MM wrench on it upside down and got it loose and got some fluid out. Once I did this I was able to spin tire freely so I am happy :) Tightened a little bit it up to prevent any further brake fluid leakage and tire still spins freely. The help is greatly appreciated and I will be going to the shop as soon as I can arrange the drive back :)
 

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I just did my rear brakes on my 1984 Wing(first time ever)glad to see you got it goin again. :applause:
 

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If you really took the wheel off without removing the bags, anything could be wrong. It may also be a spacer in wrong, the wheel not correctly meshed, a pinched brake hose.
Why would you remove the wheel without removing the bags? It is so much harder that way.
 

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Bike...and Dennis wrote:
If you really took the wheel off without removing the bags, anything could be wrong. It may also be a spacer in wrong, the wheel not correctly meshed, a pinched brake hose.
Why would you remove the wheel without removing the bags? It is so much harder that way.
I agree. When I removed my rear wheel and final drive, I removed everything. Both bags, both bag brackets, both shocks, even the trunk and trunk mounting bracket (that was because I wanted to do some repairs to the trunk, and wasn't really necessary) But you do need to get everything else out of the way. You also have to remove the rear fender, And I recmmend removing the dust shield bolt and the dust shield, once you disengage the wheel from the splines so you can get to it. My stock size tire would not fit past the dust shield, even deflated.

As for the caliper itself, I highly recommend complete dissassembly and cleaning, new seals, clean any corrosion off the pistons, and installing a speed bleader on it, so you don't have to go through the bleeding process the hard way. The caliper is very easily cleaned and rebuilt, but a shop will charge a fortune for it.
 

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Actually I did remove everything when I removed my rear wheel which was a couple weeks ago and reassembled afterwards and rode the bike without issue for a couple short runs on that new tire. What I meant was that I didn't want to remove everything again to deal with the 'new' brake and/or rear lockup issue that showed up when I took it out of the shed recently.
 

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IF it is just the rear caliper, all you need to remove is the left bag. You don't even need to remove the bag support. 2 bolts hold the caliper to the mounting bracket, if your brakes are still working, you can use the brake pedal to force the pistons out, it they aren't, like mine, you can use compressed air after removing the banjo fitting that connects the fluid line to the caliper. While you have it apart, I recommend installing a SpeedBleeder on it, so it will be easy to bleed the system when you get it back together.
 

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A blocked spooge hole is a regular problem on these. It is a .015" diameter fluid return hole in the master cylinder. It's hard to see and requires reaming with a small diameter wire. There may be other issues (like corroded pistons or a brake line that has collapsed internally) but a blocked return hole appears to be far and away the most popular failure.
 

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GregForesi wrote:
A blocked spooge hole is a regular problem on these. It is a .015" diameter fluid return hole in the master cylinder. It's hard to see and requires reaming with a small diameter wire. There may be other issues (like corroded pistons or a brake line that has collapsed internally) but a blocked return hole appears to be far and away the most popular failure.
I would have expected this too, but I would have also expected the pressure to release when he opened the bleed screw. I'm not sure how loosening the banjo bolt relived the pressure and the bleed screw didn't. I guess the bleed screw could be plugged. Sounds like it's time to clean the brake system up and both ends.
 

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Oops. Missed that part about the bleeder. Yea, needs a good going over. Time isn't kind to seals and fluids.
 
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