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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys

Believe it or not I read a couple hours last night prior to starting

RIGHT NOW I have wheel off but cant get it out of the space.

Am I supposed to undo 4 nuts at end of drive shaft? I dont recall reading that.

I can move the wheel all around in space, just cant remove it

Heres a pic Thanks Guys in advance

BTW I know someone will say you have to remove the last plastic piece of fender, yes I realize that, held on by one star screw that is stripped, am drilling it out, but that is not my problem at the moment
 

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I've never had to remove the differential to remove the wheel. From your picture, the bike may not be high enough. I've always had to use blocks under the center stand.
Have you tried letting the air out of the tire?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've never had to remove the differential to remove the wheel. From your picture, the bike may not be high enough. I've always had to use blocks under the center stand.
Have you tried letting the air out of the tire?
Thanks GLHONDA was thinking of letting air out of tire, will do, but what about the new tire that I am having installed? would I want to let air out of it also putting it back on

But yes first things first, so will let air out of tire

I am taking the wheel in to shop in truck

Will work a couple 2x4s under stand perhaps

Keep the ideas coming

Thanks :) my new tire when its put on hopefully tomorrow...would I want to let air out of a freshly sealed new tire

Yes I wondered about the height off stand, I struggle by myself to get it off stand, I can maybe work a couple 2x6 under stand

Thanks and keep the ideas coming

So you say I should not undo the 4 nuts at end of drive shaft
 

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Leave the differential alone. Don't mess with the four nuts/studs.
Before someone jumps our collective butts, makesure you clean and lube the differential splines with moly60 paste.
Once the tire is out, rock the bike to the right and add a 2x4 under the center stand, rock it back straight and install another 2x4 on the other pad. If you can't install the new tire after doing that, you will probably need to let the air out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Leave the differential alone. Don't mess with the four nuts/studs.
Before someone jumps our collective butts, makesure you clean and lube the differential splines with moly60 paste.
Once the tire is out, rock the bike to the right and add a 2x4 under the center stand, rock it back straight and install another 2x4 on the other pad. If you can't install the new tire after doing that, you will probably need to let the air out.
Thanks GL I got tire out quite easily after letting air out...Will try to get it higher for re install

Also I am on gravel driveway, I can dig also..or does that even make any sense

Thanks :)

So will I find moly60 paste at my Canadian Tire store, any automotive place? Thanks for good advice to not touch the 4 nuts...on Differential ...I didn`t even know what it was called
 

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Junior Grue
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The bike is high enough but you'll have to remove the rear fender. There's just one screw holding it on now.

If you don't have an air compressor to re-inflate the tire you can take the final drive off to re-install the wheel.

Taking the final drive off is a good idea anyway to inspect and lubricate splines if you don't know when that was last done.

Also with the final drive in your hand you can totally drain and refill it rather than just draining the top 2/3 which is all you can drain when mounted on the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The bike is high enough but you'll have to remove the rear fender. There's just one screw holding it on now.

If you don't have an air compressor to re-inflate the tire you can take the final drive off to re-install the wheel.

Taking the final drive off is a good idea anyway to inspect and lubricate splines if you don't know when that was last done.

Also with the final drive in your hand you can totally drain and refill it rather than just draining the top 2/3 which is all you can drain when mounted on the bike.
Thanks Ken, Yes I have a air compressor, but I had this idea that letting air out of a newly sealed tire might not be good? Yes I stripped the star screw, It was very rusty, I sprayed it before hand, I did manage to get the wheel out without breaking it, I may drill it out or try with chisel to move it

Now when you say final drive, are you talking about the 4 nuts at end of what I call drive shaft, the circle that goes into side of wheel? As you can see I dont know what everything is called, I think GL called it differential

Are we talking about the same thing? Is there anything in there I could damage?

You think that if I let air out of freshly sealed new tire, air will go back in without leaking, giving it proper seal

Thanks Ken
 

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I get mine from the honda dealer. I have no idea about Canadian tire products.
BTW Happy Dominion Day!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I get mine from the honda dealer. I have no idea about Canadian tire products.
BTW Happy Dominion Day!
I am in fairly remote area, am going to a fairly non denominational bike shop, they work on all bikes

I will make sure to get the right stuff, thanks again:)
 

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Junior Grue
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Cambodian Tire will have nothing remotely resembling Moly60 paste. :ROFL:

It's either your Honda dealer or a Loctite dealer if you have one nearby.

On glhonda's use of the word differential that was a brain fart as a motorcycle only has one drive wheel so there's nothing to differentiate.:raspberry:

As I said earlier, pull the final drive to inspect and lubricate the splines between it and the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Cambodian Tire will have nothing remotely resembling Moly60 paste. :ROFL:

It's either your Honda dealer or a Loctite dealer if you have one nearby.

On glhonda's use of the word differential that was a brain fart as a motorcycle only has one drive wheel so there's nothing to differentiate.:raspberry:

As I said earlier, pull the final drive to inspect and lubricate the splines between it and the engine.
Thanks Ken...so forgive me because I am a basakwards mechanic at best,, when I undo the 4 nuts will there be any gaskets or springs or any surprises when I undo them?

Also what do I use to lubricate the spiles? Would that be the same paste mentioned earlier?

Thanks again:)
 

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Junior Grue
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when I undo the 4 nuts will there be any gaskets or springs or any surprises when I undo them?

Also what do I use to lubricate the spiles? Would that be the same paste mentioned earlier?

Thanks again:)
There will be no surprises when pulling the final drive other than that the drive shaft will likely come out with the drive.

Putting it all back together after lubricating all the splines with Moly paste can be a challenge but we can walk you through that.
 

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When I did mine I called Honda Dealer to ask about Honda Moly 60. Guy said they didn't carry it. When I asked what they used he said Waterproof Grease :ROFL: I found Moly 60 at independant shop. I too, live way out in a rural area and deal with gravel driveway. I made a MC jack from a 2X12 and a piece of pipe for a handle. You need to be careful that center stand doesn't dig into dirt and cause a tip over. I envy those with a concrete floor and garage.
 

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killer driller
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If your worried about letting air out don't, once a tire is sealed it will stay on the rim it will take quite a bit of force to break the seal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks to everybody!! I got er done no problem. Got the new tire yesterday, put it on last night with no troubles.

The New tire inflated from shop went on with no problem..go figure, I guess the old tire in such bad shape had expanded?

Funny thing happened putting it on though, was just using a 1x6 piece of lumber with 2x4 under as my jack, worked great for on and off.

But anyway I am sitting on ground behind the bike with wheel mostly installed, was still lining up shocks, I raised it a tiny bit to much and I sat there helplessly as the bike rolled 2 feet off the big kick stand, I covered my face waiting for crash, but my small kickstand was also down and saved the day....was a close call though

I had one shock on so all was fine, got her back up on stand and finished the job

Now I may be thrown off the forum for this admission, but I did not use the special paste, but only 2 fingers of Motomaster Bearing and chassis grease , my mechanic said it would be just fine...SORRY

And no I did not pull the drive shaft, for one thing I remembered that the really great place I bought the bike... bens motorcycles www.bensmotorcycles.ca showed me that they added new boots or something, meaning the drive shaft had been off less than a year ago, and certainly not put back in with out proper grease

Bens Motorcyles/Classy Chassis are a Christian dealer of used bikes, from Harley to Honda
 

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Just Winging It
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The reason moly 60 is recommended is because it will reduce the wear to your final drive (differential thingy) and Honda does not make them anymore for the 1200. I used regular heavy duty grease on mine and it wore out. I had to put another used final drive on my bike.

Any grease is better than no grease. :?

Ebay has moly 60 3oz for about $10 shipped to your house. If you do ever start using the moly paste be sure to clean all the old grease off or the molly will not do its job. I really like the moly it works great and stays where it needs to be in between those metals pieces. When you wear out the tire you just put on and take the tire off you'll see that the grease you used will have moved and if you look close you'll see the contact points will not have any grease left. At least that was my experience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks jeff

It looked nice and clean, and greasy so like I said only put 2 fingers here and there.

Next time God willing I will order the stuff from ebay:)



The reason moly 60 is recommended is because it will reduce the wear to your final drive (differential thingy) and Honda does not make them anymore for the 1200. I used regular heavy duty grease on mine and it wore out. I had to put another used final drive on my bike.

Any grease is better than no grease. :?

Ebay has moly 60 3oz for about $10 shipped to your house. If you do ever start using the moly paste be sure to clean all the old grease off or the molly will not do its job. I really like the moly it works great and stays where it needs to be in between those metals pieces. When you wear out the tire you just put on and take the tire off you'll see that the grease you used will have moved and if you look close you'll see the contact points will not have any grease left. At least that was my experience.
 

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Just Winging It
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Have fun riding your wing.

It's recommended you change the oil every 3000mi or so. With a bike this old the engine tends to get a lot of gunk build up especially if the PO did not change the oil before putting it up for the winter.

I use 15-40w high detergent oil. Oil & filter change can be done for under $20 here in the USA. It's one of the best things you can do to keep your bike running. Besides making sure your bike does not over heat. The water pump bearings do wear out then the bike will begin to overheat and the head gaskets blow out. Ask me how I know.

You should also know if a timing belt breaks engine damage will occur. The belts are about $15 each and there are two.

Other wise these bikes run and run their are many of them with over 200,000mi on them and still running strong.

Oh yah, you should check the 3 yellow wires connections and the main fuse wiring there are several threads on here about that. Checking this will help keep your charging system working.

Have fun and be safe remember everyone will pull out right in front of you just to see if your paying attention.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Have fun riding your wing.

It's recommended you change the oil every 3000mi or so. With a bike this old the engine tends to get a lot of gunk build up especially if the PO did not change the oil before putting it up for the winter.

I use 15-40w high detergent oil. Oil & filter change can be done for under $20 here in the USA. It's one of the best things you can do to keep your bike running. Besides making sure your bike does not over heat. The water pump bearings do wear out then the bike will begin to overheat and the head gaskets blow out. Ask me how I know.

You should also know if a timing belt breaks engine damage will occur. The belts are about $15 each and there are two.

Other wise these bikes run and run their are many of them with over 200,000mi on them and still running strong.

Oh yah, you should check the 3 yellow wires connections and the main fuse wiring there are several threads on here about that. Checking this will help keep your charging system working.

Have fun and be safe remember everyone will pull out right in front of you just to see if your paying attention.
Thanks Jeff

The stator was changed about 5 years ago the three wires are as they are supposed to be properly soldered, I spoke to last owner also after getting report of history.

Yes I learned fast about the oil changes. Last Sept I bought the bike, I quickly found out about the 15 40 oil heavy duty diesel

I use Shell Rotella heavy duty Diesel 15 w 40 ....Amazing the difference running with this.

Until I had the Wing I never understood just how important oil changes are, yes I changed oil in the past but never noticed a difference in the running before I bought this

I had it 2 months it had fresh oil in it when I bought it, you could see it was clear, they had just put reg 10 40 in it...after having it 2 months I started getting lifter noise, I was quite worried about it

Guys here said run seafoam through it and then fill with Chevron, cant really get here, but the Rottella T works FANTASTIC I am amazed

So the lifter noise was all gone, could hardly believe it

Then just a couple weeks ago I here the lifter noise starting again...I was very very worried, but again I ran seafoam drove 200 miles roughly changed oil and same 15 40 and its clear and beautiful again, was about 3000 miles

So I am going to change it even more often, I bought 3 filters for it the other day and buy the Shell Rotella T 15 40 NON synthetic whenever its on sale at Can Tire

Now one last thing...when I went for a test drive today it felt like it was kind of clunky changing gears and brake peddle a little soft, this after I changed wheel for new tire

Now part of the clunkyness could have been just because I was riding my backup bike last 2 days waiting for new tire to arrive on my Magna 750, changing from one to the other, clutch and gears are a bit different

However on way home from ride clunkyness I think was gone, may have just been me? But I believe the brake pedal goes down farther now...no leaking of fluids and brake pads are like new

Could also be just the difference of the 2 bikes again but I think not, also I believe it improved as I drove

As I stated the old tire had to be deflated before I could get it out, the new tire had room to spare, I switched out a Dunlop for a Chenko or something like that, very cheap priced tire, so perhaps something there

I am sure it improved as I drove, perhaps it will correct itself.....as for timing belts, I have no idea, I forgot to ask the last owner about that, I contacted him twice last year, the second time he was not as friendly, so I dont know about the timing belts. I have read though that guys have changed it themselves and made it worse...it might be a job over my head, so its running very well, may have had a new one at some point has just over 100,000 K HM

Thanks
 

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Just Winging It
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Remember when you were taking the tire off you had to take the brake caliper off the rotor. I'll bet it was a little tight and you had to wiggle it to get it off. When you did that you were pushing the caliper pistons in farther than they go during normal operation. So the first time or two you pushed the rear/front brake pedal down the rear pads were reseating to there normal position. Hence the soft pedal.

gl1200's have clunky shifting they always have and always will or so I've been told, mine is, I shift with a firm movement.

With the rear tire you should run at least 42 psi or the tire will wear faster. The shinko tour master (which is the cheap one I think you have) rides nice but I found I didn't get the miles I expected. Also it's slick in the rain so be careful on wet roads. I just recently put a Michelin Commander II on the rear of mine after removing the shinko that had it's ropes showing. I was caught in the rain 2 weeks ago and rode about 30 miles on winding roads and the only time the tire slipped was when I goosed it in 3rd while accelerating. We'll see how many miles it gets.

My wife just told me to tell you "start saving money for a better tire because it won't be long and you'll need a new one"

I'm going to need to rebuild my carbs soon I've been putting it off but I have a spare set that also needs rebuilt so I have no excuses other than it's a tedious job.
 
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