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Hello All,

I bought this 1984 Gl1200 in November and have since done a lot of work on it. Timing belts, carb rebuild, flush and change all fluids, new brake pads etc... So now I find the water pump bad and while I have it disassembled waiting on new pump I thought I would remove the rear wheel and have the tire replaced. Seeing how I have done quite a bit with no trouble so far, I figured it would be easy enough. I can't get the rear tire to clear the final drive!?! Is there a trick or something I'm missing? I even closed one eye and cocked my head to the left ;-) Still no luck. Any ideas? Thanks.
 

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Hi,

If it's anything like the GL1100, you actually remove the three bolts holding the final drive to the output shaft and remove the rear wheel and final drive as one unit.

Also, if your bike is anything like mine, I would replace the final drive oil while you're at it. Mine was actually almost dry, having flung it out the top vent-hole. It was also so plugged with old sludge that I had to clean it out before I could even get it to fill up properly.

Jack
 

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It will come out, but you need assistance. Get some one to tip th ebike to the side a bit while you juggle the wheel out.
 

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You may also have to elevate the rear of the bike. I usually place a board under the centerstand if a lift isn't available. It also helps to deflate the tire...
 

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The stock tires may clear but if you have aftermarket Dunlop 491's you WILL have to deflate the tire. Then move it to the left side being carefull that the spider stays in the wheel.
 

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Thanks to all for the help. Deflated the tire and jacked the bike up a little more and the wheel came right out with only a little effort. What a great forum!!

Good day to everyone.
 

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they are a pain to get off for sure but good to see you were succesful IF you pull the drive-shaft you will have to replace the seal where it enters the rear end and reattaching the shaft is a REAL pain
 

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Well done Robert. Don't forget to grease up the drive splines where they go into the wheel, it makes them last a lot longer.
 

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The manual also calles for lubrication of the driven flange (pins) before installing into the wheel hub. If the rubber parts dry out or wear, you looking for a new wheel
Using MOLY 45
 

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Hey Wing-It I'am in the process of doing the same to My 85 Aspy .When you go to put the rear wheel back on it will go a lot easier if you have a helper make sure you torque the axle nut before you put the shocks back you can't get at it after. The bolts that hold the shocks in place should have a light coat of grease so they spin in the shock bracket.If you change the coolant make sure you flush lots with distiled water letting the engine cool off some each time did mine three times .Use only silcate and phospate free antifreeze I used Dexcool and mixed it 50/50 with distiled water Good Luck.
 

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Wingin-It sorry about the spelling in my reply.
 

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Hey TJ859,

Thanks for the additional info. Didn't know about the grease on the shock mount bolts... had them nice and clean too. Also, local honda dealerdidn't have MOLY 45 as the manual calls for but they do have MOLY 60. Anyone know if the 60 is suitable for the 45 applications?
 

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I use the moly 60 high heat grease. If it's good for using in a steel mill its gotta be ok in my splines :)
 

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I have had the rear wheel off my 86 Aspencade on 2 separate occasions. The first time, I removed the exhausts to enable removal. This was a real pain. The second time, I followed the instructions in the Haynes manual and removed the shocks. Everything semed fine with this method until I tried aligning and inserting the bottom bolt of the right-hand shock. It was extremely difficult geting it to "catch" onto it's threads for screwing in and took me a total of 3 hours to do so. Next time it will be back to removing the exhausts, unless someone can offer me advice ?



cheers, Craig
 

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Hi Craig, I think the bike they used in Haynes had the short exhausts fitted similar to the Motads this gives you plenty of room to remove/replace the bolts.

I'm sure the last time I changed my tyre all I did was remove the left pannier, remove brake caliper remove rear mudguard section and then pull the axleandspacer. I used a small bottle jack to raise the rear of the bike slightly and the wheel came straight out.
 

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Just took the rear wheel off my 1500 this morning, on that bike with OEM exhaust, just removing the muffler hanger bolts, loosening the clamps and rotating the muffler a bit they will swing down enough to clear.

I can't say enough about having a bike lift to raise the bike up for this kind of work, saves a lot of effort on my poor old back, and makes it easy to remove the wheel. I don't have one of the expensive ones, the thing cost less than $100 and works great. I have an older one from Harbor Freight that cost around $50 that worked well too but my new bike came with a slightly beefier one that I use now.

Just miked my rear disk and found it to be an RCH thinner than 6mm so I will have to wait 'til Tuesday to get the one I bought from a guy in Texas. Kinda hoped I could reuse this one, I'm getting really impatient to get this bike back together and on the road!

:crying::15red::waving:
 

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My experience has been o.k. I've removed many of the GL1200 rear wheels and after the first two or three, it's become an easy job...

Bike up on center stand.

Remove the left luggage compartment, rear fender & brace..

Remove both Lt & Rt lower shock bolts, and the brake caliper.

Pull the rear axle bolt (remember how the spacers came out)..

Let the wheel drop to the floor, pull the bottom towards you on the left side and roll it out.

Granted, it takes a little wiggling, rocking & rolling at the same time, but it does roll out the rear..

Here's my little secret... When re-assembling it all,, have a small scissors jack or 5" hydraulic piston jack handy to raise the swing arm up on either side so you can catch the axle bolt AND the shock bolts...

I can usually do the job in an hour... It's a good time to inspect the rear disc pads.:12beige:
 

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Damn wheel. Cleaned up the driven flange and rear hub today and decided the rubber dampers and the aluminum (aluminium to you far Easterners) inserts wouldn't cut it. They are probably usable for awhile, but I'm hoping not to have to pull the rear wheel again for a good long while so ordered new rubber and aluminum. I will say they don't give those things away, cost me $140 for a new set. Should have the bike back together this Thursday, come hell or high water I will if I have to steal parts off a parked bike. It's been almost two weeks, I've got the shakes and the cat and the woman who hangs around here have been hiding from me.

:whip::whip::whip::15red::whip::whip::whip:
 

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Paul. Did I read right? Did you say you ordered the rubber isolators, or am I missing something? If so, where? Thanx, Bob
 

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Sounds like he rodered the large round rubber dust seal that covers the final drive housing.. The small rubber inserts for the wheel are not available from what I understand,,, You must replace the wheel... :)
 
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