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Some have said they are having trouble with the link... (It still works for me) so I am up loading the pdf so if my link breaks, you still have it..
 

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Just bought a used high mileage 75 GL1000. May need to use welded method for clearance of heat shields. Great work thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
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Use the link in post 43..

my host lost everything... going to have to rebuild (long story.. I didn't catch it in time, so there is no backup.. they claim only 7 day backups and it was lost more than a week ago.. more like a month ago..) there are a few links internal to the document that won't work, but nothing important..
 

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Discussion Starter #47
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Got a PM that Link is not working??? works for me.. try this

LINK TO TENSIONER REBUILD


It's earlier in the thread.. but hear is a repeat of my favorite Bearing for the job:

The T42015
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The T42015 is a near exact fit to the OEM tensioner pulley. In particular the OEM bearing is 60mm outside diameter and the T42015 is 60mm.

This bearing is used in late model KIA and Hyundai applications from 1997 through 2008 for the 1.8L (and maybe others) engines. http://www.RockAuto.com lists the following:

HYUNDAI ELANTRA (1996 - 2001), HYUNDAI ELANTRA GL 2008, HYUNDAI ELANTRA GLS (1996 - 2008), HYUNDAI ELANTRA GLS SPORT 2008, HYUNDAI ELANTRA GT (2002 - 2006), HYUNDAI ELANTRA L 2008, HYUNDAI ELANTRA LIMITED (2006 - 2008), HYUNDAI ELANTRA SE (2007 - 2008), HYUNDAI TIBURON (1997 - 2004), HYUNDAI TIBURON FX (1997 - 1998), HYUNDAI TIBURON GS (2005 - 2007), HYUNDAI TUCSON GL (2005 - 2008), HYUNDAI TUCSON GLS (2007 - 2008), HYUNDAI TUCSON L 2008, HYUNDAI TUCSON LIMITED 2008, KIA SPECTRA EX (2004 - 2008), KIA SPECTRA LX (2004 - 2008), KIA SPECTRA LX CONVENIENCE 2008, KIA SPECTRA LX PREMIUM 2008, KIA SPECTRA SX (2005 - 2008), KIA SPECTRA5 (2005 - 2006, KIA SPECTRA5 LX 2008, KIA SPECTRA5 LX CONVENIENCE 2008, KIA SPECTRA5 SX (2007 - 2008), KIA SPORTAGE LX (2005 - 2008), KIA SPORTAGE LX CONVENIENCE 2008

Likewise there are the following equivalent choices for the timing belt pulley: Steel Smooth (60mm x 10.3mm x 28.5mm):

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0241282 $16.72
GATES Part # T42015 $17.88
CLOYES Part # 95471 $14.65
NAPA NTP 95471 $23.49
NAPA NBH T42015 $26.49
 

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Discussion Starter #48
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Fixed primary links in first post... all you need is there..

trying to find the other missing documents (on the various bearings and studs) to fix the other links..
 

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I know you've heard it many times but again thank you for this post. My tensioner pulleys are worn out and the whining was driving me nuts. (daily driver) I really didn't want to spend the $150 to replace them and knew there had to be a better (cheaper) way. $30 including shipping is more like it.
 

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I am going to go with the gates T42015 and the 10 mil retainer. I sourced them out of Amazon. I was able to buy 2 belts and 2 bearings for under $80.
Thanks for the info.
 

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I have a set I may do as 'back up" for either the 1200 or 1500, great idea! Thanks!
 

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I have a 1986 gl1200i. I'm using the 12mm stud method for the tensioners. Went to mount it there's a brace that comes out of the case between the mounting holes. Do I grind that off to clear the back of the stud head?
 

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If it is part of the aluminum casting of the engine, I wouldn't... I'd probably grind on the back of the stud... what stud is that.. it must be one of the very thick headed ones... and I presume you are using the 42025 bearing..
 

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I'm using the t42015 bearing and the dorman 610-276 stud. It is part of the aluminum case. I used a strait edge. It is even with the mounting holes. So the head of the stud is the thickness to be cut off the casting. Any other solutions?
 

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1-How are you getting the 12mm stud through the 10mm hole of the bearing.. as pointed out above, it is too hard to drill out the bearing with home tools as I had originally suggested in the write up ...

2- I understand you to say that the plate is flush with what you called "bracket"... Are you sure that there is no clearance? Unfortunately I don't have a 1200 so I can't see the issues....

If there is actually is no clearance, I'd completely grind off the stud head and draw it into the plate about 1mm then tack weld it like the OEM... or better yet, if you use the 10mm stud instead, it will self center in the bevel of the back of plate and grinding off the excess sticking out will not allow it to draw back in because some is in the bevel..
 

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badorderbob wrote:
Just thought I'd mention since I did mine NO problems (2009 install)!!:thumbsup:Thanks Jim,...:bow:Bob
Update, I'm doing some work on my bike where I had to take the radiator off. I went ahead and removed the T-Belt covers to see if there was any problems with the Tensioner Conversion and everything was in great shape with NO WEAR to the belts. I took some pictures to share!!:cheesygrin:Enjoy,....:weightlifter:Bob
 

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Last One,....:cheesygrin::weightlifter:Bob AS you can see everything is pretty clean and the belts showed no wear at all!!!!:applause:
 

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