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Nice pics.. Thanks..
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Anybody use the FAQ anymore?
 

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I realize this is an older thread - but a very helpful one. After having a bearing begin to fail (clicking noise and whining) I used the mentioned method to replace the tensioners. I used the 12mm wheel stud method which required some creative grinding with the Dremel due to the hard bearing material. In my gl1200A there is a brace as referred to by dazey333. (see photos) After reading the responses I decided not to grind the engine case and chose to grind the stud instead. In my trial fitment I noticed the tensioner would fit but had very limited adjustability. So as the pictures show I ground the portion of the stud that was limiting the adjustment - it only took about a third of the stud back. With only a quick test start it sounds much better.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Glad you got it working...
 

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Old threads never really loose their relevance....
there is always another bike out there needing the same attention,
and the efforts of a good poster like Jim here is, makes it easier for the followers.
 

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i want to tell ya'll about how i removed the stock idler from the bracket on my 1100.since my drill bit wasnt making much headway with the stud,i decided to try my air body saw,worked like a champ.cut thru the stud and all i had to do was knock the leftover stud out of the bracket.now to have the hole(s) in the idlers drilled out
 

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Here's my tensioner rebuild

Hi folks,

I recently renewed the belts and the tensioners at my 92 SE.
Because I couldn't get the suggested T42025 here in Germany I used INA 532030710 instead, usually used in Hyundais.

I drilled out the stud with a 14mm drill, used a 14x10mm spacer and high quality 10mm nuts and bolts.
Absolutely no problem to mount the bearings to the holders.

Also see a little video showing the very first engine start after replacement.
E
 

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Ok guys, I just replaced the tensioners on my GL1000. I just wanted a couple second opinions before I cover everything back up. I used grade 8, 3/8" hardware torqued to 30lbs. I did my best to center the bolt in the larger opening on the tensioner plate before I torqued them. I assume that once they are tightened it won't really matter if the idler is perfectly centered because the spring will compensate. The only thing that concerns me is the washer sunk into the opening on the plate.

I ground down the spacer plate that goes behind the tensioner to allow it to move as usual with the added material from the hex head. Everything seems to work as intended.

Any reasons I should alter what I've done here?
 

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Great pictures and glad to see the conversion is working.Just had to share that since I did mine back in 2009, I haven't had a problem. 7yrs.and working great.:laugh: Thanks again Jim:wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Just a quick note that the PDFs instructions are back at post 42 or 43 or so..
 

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Thanks, John. I don't get by here as often as I should but glad to see some of my solutions helping.
 

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Trying this on mine shortly. ACDelco 42015's are about $14 shipping on Amazon. Doing the 3/8" Carriage bolt method.

Replaced the timing belts this spring, but I get a whine at idle once hot on my '86 Medicaide.
 

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Trying this on mine shortly. ACDelco 42015's are about $14 shipping on Amazon. Doing the 3/8" Carriage bolt method.

Replaced the timing belts this spring, but I get a whine at idle once hot on my '86 Medicaide.
A whine would indicate that the belt is to tigth , check the tension .
 

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Sorry, wrong word. "chirp" or "high pitched squeal" would be more accurate. Only when hot at idle.

I took the bike apart twice to check belt tension. Both times, it was right.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Glad to see the comments...
 
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