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I've got to the point that the off-idle stumble is bothering me. I am going to buy the Raddack rebuild kit and suggested video ( anyone have one for sale?? ) on carb rebuilding for my 1100. Is everything I need in thekit or are there additional items I should purchase. I would rather spend a few extra dollars and do this one time than try to go cheap and have to install and remove two or three times. What do you experianced carb rebuilders suggest. Thanks!!!!
 

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If your getting the Randakk kit & video, all you need is cleaning sprays & time. You will need to sinc the carbs when they go back on. You can rough sinc them before you bolt them on & that will get you close.
 

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cyclewizard wrote:
I think you have to buy the needles, i don't think his kit comes with them.
You wont get the needles in the kit. Dont buy cheap e bay ones, only Mother Honda makes ones that work. Alot of the time they are still good which is awesome because their not cheap!
 

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hatchetman wrote:
cyclewizard wrote:
I think you have to buy the needles, i don't think his kit comes with them.
You wont get the needles in the kit. Dont buy cheap e bay ones, only Mother Honda makes ones that work. Alot of the time they are still good which is awesome because their not cheap!
100.00 bucks just for the needles....ouch!
 

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Off idle stumble? I don't think a rebuild is your best route.

Does it run like crap at low rpm? Stumbling and popping?

I have this problem and 4 carb cleanings did nothing.

I read somthing about this being a common problem on the elevens. Something about the butterflies being out of sync. There is supposed to be a fix for it.

Some 1100 owners here should know more.
 

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Good info----would like to know more about the butterfly sync problem. Runs good above 2500 rpm---just not responsive below that unless I crank on throttle and drive it like I stole it. Keep info coming---I am listening!!
 

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only the #3 carb has a acc. pump . yes randakks master kit is the best.
 

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If you carbs are not synched do that first it may solve your problem if not then accelerator pump is the next thing to check.

Does it idle smoothly at 1000 RPM's???
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
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Idle is "ruff" at start up but once it is warm, it will float between 1000 and 1400. About the accelerator pump, you say this is in the #3 carb and do I remove all carbs to replace this or can it be done in place.
 

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First 1000 to 1400 is not right to high..should idle steady at 950 even 800 is the bike is tuned correctly..no fluctuations. But no more than 1000. Most novices will up the idle to get smooth idling rather than synch the carbs..

carbs have to be removed to replace accelerator pump..there are a couple of rubber things to replace..o ring..and tube like rubber shelve, and a spring..

read here http://www.randakks.com/TechTip80.htm

and

http://www.randakks.com/TechTip46.htm scroll way down to see pump info but the whole link tells all about 1100 carbs..
 

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There are three or four little holes in the venturi right at the bottom of the throttle butterfly in each carb. If one or some of them are blocked you will have the symptoms you describe.
 
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