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Can't figure out how to make them all on the same page so here is anther pic
Can't figure out how to make them all on the same page so here is anther pic
Rebuilding my GL1500 Trike
Well, many of you already know I was in an accident on the 12th of June. Not going into insurance companies here or health. I just figure I will run through the rebuild as I go. Perhaps this way some will get a good knowledge about their front ends and even more important some can give me some good pointers as I go.
So the short of it; I was hit from behind pushing me into the vehicle in front of me.
Front end damage: Front forks - tubes, history, glides - history, wheel - will be testing on a stand to see if it is still true, axle - history 0.022 runout, bearings - replacing, Triple Tree - history (broke stop tab off), right grip - history, handle bars - history, tall windshield +4" - history (broke both end tabs off), wheel covers - history, front fender (both A & B) - still excellent condition (tuperware yahoo), brake calipers - good, brake pads - soaked with front end oil, replacing.
Taking everything apart is the first step. Second step will be through inspection of all components and frame.
First off were the grips, thank you to the forum information in "Bikers Workshop Series #9". What works for an 1800 works for a 1500 when all I needed was information to get them off. I could have just cut them off, but it's good to refine your skills as you go and do everything as if it is going back together. Thanks to that, it was easy. Since I know that this process is going to take some time (perhaps a few months) I decided to take care of a few other items as well, like, sticky buttons and switches. So I took everything apart to properly clean and put back together using dielectric grease (very small amounts so as not to attract dirt) on all the contacts. OK putting the handle bars on the out pile (they were bent 3/4" out of square) I went on to the forks. Oh, lower cowling, wheel covers, all on the out pile. It's a simple fact the forks are not going to be kept, so after removing the tire and wheel, and axle setting them aside, I drained the oil from the tubes first. Nice and clean (I just rebuilt them two weeks prior). Loosening pinch bolts I slid the tubes out. Pictures will follow all this. I put the glide in the vice and proceeded to take it apart. Progressive springs will be used with my next front end. Oh, I have a line from a member here for the front end, so perhaps next week it will be in the mail:clapper:. Anyway, I will rebuild that one with my components once I get it and will post as I go.
Next, I noticed here that the triple tree was missing the turn stop. I had planned on replacing it anyway (impact and all). That item will take a while to get as I have a raked front end and going to 4.5 degree rake this time instead of the 6 degree that I had in there. They don't give those puppies away,:shock: but that is all right I have a lot of work to do. In removing the Triple Tree, you need to remove the bolts on the bottom where the cancelling switch is. then back to the top, remove the rubber cap push this cap back on the wire to give at least 4" of wire that you can push down the triple tree stem to get to the coupler. Rudy, you will be happy to hear that I'm redoing all my 15 years of 'not so good' wiring. Already started taking it out and doing it properly this time as I'm waiting for parts.
Including soldering, eliminating excessive wire, removing junk, adding an electric fuse box (when you build it for me )etc.
OK, now I can see pretty good up around the frame fork area. I took pictures, as you can see things on camera a lot easier. Wherever I had a question (a line of some sort) I then checked out really good physically. No cracks have been found. Measured to certain points and all seems to be straight. That was a relief:clapper:.
Yesterday, Saturday I received my first two packages of many I expect. A new axle, and new handlebars, oh yeah. I figured sense I had to replace them (handlebars) anyway, I wanted a set that I have been looking at from MBL, of which they don't make anymore. So calling them they gave me some of their suppliers through the US and said good luck. The very next day MBL called me back and told meof two places they found to have them, thank you MBL. I've been playing with them this morning already, the handlebars that is. They are 1 1/2" narrower than stock and 2" longer. Can't wait to give them a try.
So that is it for now, I expect another package this week (besides the forks) of wheel bearings, and a front fork seal kit (with bushings).
More to come.
IF any of you need to do this yourself,
DON'T FORGET TO TAKE LOTS OF PICTURES, ESPECIALLY OF THE ELECTRICAL ROUTING AROUND THE HANDLEBARS.
OK, so that being said I had a time figuring out the routing of the wire looms to make sure they don't get pinched. So my Triple Tree arrived and I went and picked it up today. Wasn't going to wait for them to deliver it. You need a spanner wrench for the remounting of the tree. So I went and found one to use. Laid everything out put it all in dry the first time. But it all together to find out any obstacles that I might have to work out. Pretty cut and dry. So apart it came again, and greased it up for the re-run. I also had to borrow a race remover as there was not way any of my tools were going to be able to remove the bottom race in the fork head. Top yes, bottom no.
So the short of it; I was hit from behind pushing me into the vehicle in front of me.
Front end damage: Front forks - tubes, history, glides - history, wheel - will be testing on a stand to see if it is still true, axle - history 0.022 runout, bearings - replacing, Triple Tree - history (broke stop tab off), right grip - history, handle bars - history, tall windshield +4" - history (broke both end tabs off), wheel covers - history, front fender (both A & B) - still excellent condition (tuperware yahoo), brake calipers - good, brake pads - soaked with front end oil, replacing.
Taking everything apart is the first step. Second step will be through inspection of all components and frame.
First off were the grips, thank you to the forum information in "Bikers Workshop Series #9". What works for an 1800 works for a 1500 when all I needed was information to get them off. I could have just cut them off, but it's good to refine your skills as you go and do everything as if it is going back together. Thanks to that, it was easy. Since I know that this process is going to take some time (perhaps a few months) I decided to take care of a few other items as well, like, sticky buttons and switches. So I took everything apart to properly clean and put back together using dielectric grease (very small amounts so as not to attract dirt) on all the contacts. OK putting the handle bars on the out pile (they were bent 3/4" out of square) I went on to the forks. Oh, lower cowling, wheel covers, all on the out pile. It's a simple fact the forks are not going to be kept, so after removing the tire and wheel, and axle setting them aside, I drained the oil from the tubes first. Nice and clean (I just rebuilt them two weeks prior). Loosening pinch bolts I slid the tubes out. Pictures will follow all this. I put the glide in the vice and proceeded to take it apart. Progressive springs will be used with my next front end. Oh, I have a line from a member here for the front end, so perhaps next week it will be in the mail:clapper:. Anyway, I will rebuild that one with my components once I get it and will post as I go.
Next, I noticed here that the triple tree was missing the turn stop. I had planned on replacing it anyway (impact and all). That item will take a while to get as I have a raked front end and going to 4.5 degree rake this time instead of the 6 degree that I had in there. They don't give those puppies away,:shock: but that is all right I have a lot of work to do. In removing the Triple Tree, you need to remove the bolts on the bottom where the cancelling switch is. then back to the top, remove the rubber cap push this cap back on the wire to give at least 4" of wire that you can push down the triple tree stem to get to the coupler. Rudy, you will be happy to hear that I'm redoing all my 15 years of 'not so good' wiring. Already started taking it out and doing it properly this time as I'm waiting for parts.
Including soldering, eliminating excessive wire, removing junk, adding an electric fuse box (when you build it for me )etc.OK, now I can see pretty good up around the frame fork area. I took pictures, as you can see things on camera a lot easier. Wherever I had a question (a line of some sort) I then checked out really good physically. No cracks have been found. Measured to certain points and all seems to be straight. That was a relief:clapper:.
Yesterday, Saturday I received my first two packages of many I expect. A new axle, and new handlebars, oh yeah. I figured sense I had to replace them (handlebars) anyway, I wanted a set that I have been looking at from MBL, of which they don't make anymore. So calling them they gave me some of their suppliers through the US and said good luck. The very next day MBL called me back and told meof two places they found to have them, thank you MBL. I've been playing with them this morning already, the handlebars that is. They are 1 1/2" narrower than stock and 2" longer. Can't wait to give them a try.
So that is it for now, I expect another package this week (besides the forks) of wheel bearings, and a front fork seal kit (with bushings).
More to come.
IF any of you need to do this yourself,
DON'T FORGET TO TAKE LOTS OF PICTURES, ESPECIALLY OF THE ELECTRICAL ROUTING AROUND THE HANDLEBARS.
OK, so that being said I had a time figuring out the routing of the wire looms to make sure they don't get pinched. So my Triple Tree arrived and I went and picked it up today. Wasn't going to wait for them to deliver it. You need a spanner wrench for the remounting of the tree. So I went and found one to use. Laid everything out put it all in dry the first time. But it all together to find out any obstacles that I might have to work out. Pretty cut and dry. So apart it came again, and greased it up for the re-run. I also had to borrow a race remover as there was not way any of my tools were going to be able to remove the bottom race in the fork head. Top yes, bottom no.
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one more for now
one more for now
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So this morning I did a couple of items. First the handlebars. Everything fit just as it should. However, I would suggest if whenever someone takes off either switch handles make sure the plastic cover goes back on covering the electrical terminals inside, you don't want any shorts. Also I found it easier to turn the left switch upside down to re-hook the choke cable into it's slot in the handle. Otherwise you spend quite a while fighting it before the little bell goes off in your head.
I also noted while checking all electrical over really well that near the head of the triple tree where the electrical cable makes a sharp bend I had a bare wire. I had to look really close as the rubber outer covering was coming apart here so that made me look closer. Yep, something had worn off the insulation of two wires. I don't know what they went to, but I took the time right there to solder the wires that were bare of insulation and then put a small coat of tool dip over the solder. I then taped everything back up real good inside and outside. I probably would have never found that short for some time.
I forgot to mention, I now have flashers, they have not worked in over three years. The choke works like it never has. Turn signals work with such great ease.
So this morning I did a couple of items. First the handlebars. Everything fit just as it should. However, I would suggest if whenever someone takes off either switch handles make sure the plastic cover goes back on covering the electrical terminals inside, you don't want any shorts. Also I found it easier to turn the left switch upside down to re-hook the choke cable into it's slot in the handle. Otherwise you spend quite a while fighting it before the little bell goes off in your head.
I also noted while checking all electrical over really well that near the head of the triple tree where the electrical cable makes a sharp bend I had a bare wire. I had to look really close as the rubber outer covering was coming apart here so that made me look closer. Yep, something had worn off the insulation of two wires. I don't know what they went to, but I took the time right there to solder the wires that were bare of insulation and then put a small coat of tool dip over the solder. I then taped everything back up real good inside and outside. I probably would have never found that short for some time.
I forgot to mention, I now have flashers, they have not worked in over three years. The choke works like it never has. Turn signals work with such great ease.
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Seconditem today was the wheel. Removing the bearings was much easier than I anticipated. I remember someone saying use a bolt, well didn't much feel lile taking a drive to the hardware store so while I was looking around a thought came to mind. I used to be a rigger and we would hit objects that were frozen solid with another solid object to loosen them. OK, why not. I took a right size socket ( 1-1/4") took my little plumb hammer and whacked it. Just once. Sure enough it loosened the inside spacer enough that I could then use the large drift shown in the picture to knock it out in just 4 hits. turned it over and knocked the other side out with as many. Putting the new bearings in was much easier. The socket I previously used worked just fine for that. Don't forget to put the spacer back in.
I needed the new bearings in before I check for true running just in case a bearing was compromised in the impact of the accident. Tomorrow I hope to have my stand made to check out of round measurements.
Seconditem today was the wheel. Removing the bearings was much easier than I anticipated. I remember someone saying use a bolt, well didn't much feel lile taking a drive to the hardware store so while I was looking around a thought came to mind. I used to be a rigger and we would hit objects that were frozen solid with another solid object to loosen them. OK, why not. I took a right size socket ( 1-1/4") took my little plumb hammer and whacked it. Just once. Sure enough it loosened the inside spacer enough that I could then use the large drift shown in the picture to knock it out in just 4 hits. turned it over and knocked the other side out with as many. Putting the new bearings in was much easier. The socket I previously used worked just fine for that. Don't forget to put the spacer back in.
I needed the new bearings in before I check for true running just in case a bearing was compromised in the impact of the accident. Tomorrow I hope to have my stand made to check out of round measurements.
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While we are on the subject of the wheel. Now is a good time to clean out the gear box for the speedometer cable. And while you are at it remove the cable, clean and replace after lightly greased. The gear box was caked with grease making it really hard to turn by hand. The gear box retainer was also pretty trashed. After cleaning out the gear box with lacquer thinner I added new light grease to it and wow does it turn so nice now. I also purchased a new retainer, what a difference it looked as well. This could have been why my speedometer looked like it was jumping. This could also have an effect on the cruise control. I will now that when everything is back together.
More to come.
While we are on the subject of the wheel. Now is a good time to clean out the gear box for the speedometer cable. And while you are at it remove the cable, clean and replace after lightly greased. The gear box was caked with grease making it really hard to turn by hand. The gear box retainer was also pretty trashed. After cleaning out the gear box with lacquer thinner I added new light grease to it and wow does it turn so nice now. I also purchased a new retainer, what a difference it looked as well. This could have been why my speedometer looked like it was jumping. This could also have an effect on the cruise control. I will now that when everything is back together.
More to come.
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Jim, I hadit chromed when I did my conversion.
So, I couldn't wait until tomorrow to check the runout of the wheel and rotors. Just finished and took my measurements several time to be sure. :clapper::clapper::clapper:It is near excellent. On the rotors I had 0.002 run out and on the outside of the wheel I had .003 runout. Maximum allowable is .01. I did way better. I suspect hitting the car in front of me straight on and the tubes acting as a custion worked in my favor this time.
Now I admit this is not the most solid apparatus I used and I will have it checked one more time on a tire machine but here was my set up.
Jim, I hadit chromed when I did my conversion.
So, I couldn't wait until tomorrow to check the runout of the wheel and rotors. Just finished and took my measurements several time to be sure. :clapper::clapper::clapper:It is near excellent. On the rotors I had 0.002 run out and on the outside of the wheel I had .003 runout. Maximum allowable is .01. I did way better. I suspect hitting the car in front of me straight on and the tubes acting as a custion worked in my favor this time.
Now I admit this is not the most solid apparatus I used and I will have it checked one more time on a tire machine but here was my set up.
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here are the pictures of the rear, lot of work there. That will come later.
It took a lot of counseling, but I think I got it now.:cheeky1:
Here goes:
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There is a double wall where the hinge attaches to the base and the hinge was knocked out of the base. That alone is a bit of work.
here are the pictures of the rear, lot of work there. That will come later.
It took a lot of counseling, but I think I got it now.:cheeky1:Here goes:
There is a double wall where the hinge attaches to the base and the hinge was knocked out of the base. That alone is a bit of work.
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Bob, you need to copy the link of the picture you put in the Gallery (right-click the picture, click properties and copy the URL of the picturefrom the properties pop-up), then when making your post here just click the
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tab and paste that link of into the popup box and click OK. Do this for each picture you want to put in that post, that way you can have as many pictures as you want in your post.
Bob, you need to copy the link of the picture you put in the Gallery (right-click the picture, click properties and copy the URL of the picturefrom the properties pop-up), then when making your post here just click the
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Nope, it was a hit and run. Out of pocket as they say. I really hope that it is fixable at a reasonable price as well. A new trike body is four grand. But I'm going to get the front end together before I tackle that anyway. Then I plan on taking the body off and post that as well. That way people can see exactly howa bike is altered to make a trike.
I had a lot more custom work done several years ago when I did this. I added length to the axle to bring the tires right out to he edge of the body, looks cool. I'll get into this at a latter date.
Nope, it was a hit and run. Out of pocket as they say. I really hope that it is fixable at a reasonable price as well. A new trike body is four grand. But I'm going to get the front end together before I tackle that anyway. Then I plan on taking the body off and post that as well. That way people can see exactly howa bike is altered to make a trike.
I had a lot more custom work done several years ago when I did this. I added length to the axle to bring the tires right out to he edge of the body, looks cool. I'll get into this at a latter date.
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While waiting for parts, which should arrive sometime next week, I thought I would show what happened to the Triple Tree. This is not a stock tree, as it is custom made with 6 degrees of rake. The additional rake makes the steering very soft, or more like power steering. But I actually feel it also made it a bit more difficult at slower speeds. So I'm changing the rake to 4.5 sense the opportunity has been given to me. This will make it feel like power steering throughout the steering range. The one your looking at was broke in the accident. At the very bottom just in front of the bearing you can see a square impression where a piece that was once a 1/2" height broke off. It is the extreme right and left stop. The whole tree was machined from a block of aluminum alloy. To weld on it is out of the question, it has to be replaced.
While waiting for parts, which should arrive sometime next week, I thought I would show what happened to the Triple Tree. This is not a stock tree, as it is custom made with 6 degrees of rake. The additional rake makes the steering very soft, or more like power steering. But I actually feel it also made it a bit more difficult at slower speeds. So I'm changing the rake to 4.5 sense the opportunity has been given to me. This will make it feel like power steering throughout the steering range. The one your looking at was broke in the accident. At the very bottom just in front of the bearing you can see a square impression where a piece that was once a 1/2" height broke off. It is the extreme right and left stop. The whole tree was machined from a block of aluminum alloy. To weld on it is out of the question, it has to be replaced.
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