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1981 goldie gl1100
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's up guys? Missed ya while I was away lol. Anyways, I drove up to the school yesterday to pick up my daughter and my back brake got stuck in place. I bled them the right way I think I stomped the pedal until it was all the wAy down and then tightened the bleeder and it'll go in and out like it supposed to but once it gets hot and stuff it'll stick and start smoking idk why
 

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Two things come to mind.
Pedal out of adjustment not letting the master cylinder piston return all the way.
Return hole in the master cylinder plugged with gunk.
Either of these conditions do not allow excess fluid to return to the reservoir.
 

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I vote for the return hole plugged. On an 1100 it's almost impossible for the pedal to be out of adjustment far enough to cause that but they are notorious for the pivot being rusty so the pedal doesn't return.
 

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1985 GL1200 A
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Both of the above deserve checking out, for sure. In the not-as-common category are the pad pins. When was the last time you checked your brake pad pins for cleanliness, smoothness and proper lubrication? I mention this because I had similar symptoms on a GL1500 about 10 years ago and it turned out to be: (1) The pins needed to be cleaned well; (2) then they needed to be sanded with oil and 400+ grit sandpaper and cleaned again, basically polished; and, then lubed with the Honda (what I happened to have) grey thick grease, the type you put on the final drive gears. I also used a fine rat tail file to chamfer the edges of the pad holes and they never hung up on edges in the pins again.
 

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1981 goldie gl1100
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44 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
On this gl 1100 there are no pins.. it's a single piston caliper. When I rebuilt it, I cleaned everything inside and out with parts cleaner and put all new o rings on everything new boots, new bleeder rubber tip thing. I bled it right and it'll work perfectly fine for a lil bit and when I got it out Inthe driveway walking it back and forth it works just fine doesn't get stuck at all. Seems like only when I use it more than few times while I'm out driving that it gets stuck
 

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1981 goldie gl1100
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'll start smelling the hot metal smell where the back brake is engaged slightly while riding and when I pull over it'll be smoking a bit. I thought it was just tight from the new pads but when the mf started screeching and then when I pulled over my back wheel ain't wanna move until I unscrewed the bleeder and released the pressure. I been using just front brakes but I'd rather have all of them. It stops so much cleaner and quicker. I almost ate a curb yesterday with my daughter on the back because I was trying to turn and that back brake wouldn't slow.me down at all so I was relying on just front brakes and that won't good enough apparently. Scared the **** out of me. I'd hate to hurt my daughter just out trying to go for a.ride.
 

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1981 goldie gl1100
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44 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I can provide pics if you guys need them. I'll take the caliper off and snap some nudies of her lol just gimme the word
 

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It's not the caliper..... It is the return hole in the master cylinder plugged.
 

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1981 goldie gl1100
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It's not the caliper..... It is the return hole in the master cylinder plugged.
Oh okay so just pop that off and clean it out? When I bought the bike he hadn't used the back caliper at all. He had the brake line ziptied up and the caliper in the back saddlebag . I rebuilt it and put all new rubber everywhere on it.. never thought to mess with the master cylinder itself.
 

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Oh okay so just pop that off and clean it out? When I bought the bike he hadn't used the back caliper at all. He had the brake line ziptied up and the caliper in the back saddlebag . I rebuilt it and put all new rubber everywhere on it.. never thought to mess with the master cylinder itself.
You have to pull the reservoir line off and pull the rubber grommet out and clean out the holes underneath. There is a tiny hole in the bottom of a larger hole that is the return hole, it is the problem. A single strand from a wire brush is about the only thing that will go through the hole.
 

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You might have a collapsed brake hose that may be why the PO had taken the caliper off, if the hose deteriorated internally the fluid will not be able to return to the master giving you the symptoms you descibe. If you clean out the return hole in the MC and the problems persist I would replace the hose.
 

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Both of the above deserve checking out, for sure. In the not-as-common category are the pad pins. When was the last time you checked your brake pad pins for cleanliness, smoothness and proper lubrication? I mention this because I had similar symptoms on a GL1500 about 10 years ago and it turned out to be: (1) The pins needed to be cleaned well; (2) then they needed to be sanded with oil and 400+ grit sandpaper and cleaned again, basically polished; and, then lubed with the Honda (what I happened to have) grey thick grease, the type you put on the final drive gears. I also used a fine rat tail file to chamfer the edges of the pad holes and they never hung up on edges in the pins again.
Thats been a standard procedure for me for a long time. The pin bores to, give them a thorough cleaning, have gone so far as to use a bronze brush (gun cleaning tool/Walmart) to polish the bores and finish with Never Seize.
 
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