[janhsmn]

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To all those that have helped me over the past few weeks with my rectifier and wiring problems on my 1200 1984 aspencade I give my thanks, especially to Twisty who has been a lifeline at times offering great advice. :clapper::clapper:



I have installed a new rectifier and the battery is now showing just under 12 volts instead of 17.5. the bike voltmeter is showing 12 at idling speed and 13.5 at 3000 revs. So the problems seem to have been solved.

Thanks to you all again. :jumper::jumper:



Janet

 

[englishted]

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Sounds perfect Janet, the good people here always do their best to help, Twisty is one of the best. Hope we see you post here again.

 

[twisty]

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janhsmn wrote:

To all those that have helped me over the past few weeks with my rectifier and wiring problems on my 1200 1984 aspencade I give my thanks, especially to Twisty who has been a lifeline at times offering great advice. :clapper::clapper:



I have installed a new rectifier and the battery is now showing just under 12 volts instead of 17.5. the bike voltmeter is showing 12 at idling speed and 13.5 at 3000 revs. So the problems seem to have been solved.

Thanks to you all again. :jumper::jumper:

Janet, you're welcome... Keep us posted on the long term operation or that charging system.. Those 1200 charging systems seem to be about the only real serious problem the 1200 Wing has so the more we can document over time the better it will be for the future of the 1200 Wing owners..

Twisty

 

[gaswing]

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Well done Janet, I hope you get many miles of trouble-free motoring. Twisty is right in what he says. :clapper:

 

[oldbiker]

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Hi every body i am new to the web site and i just want to say i think its GREAT!I have a 1984 aspencade and its not charging the batery .I have cut the stater wires and checked the voltage comming out @3000 rpm and i get 70 to 80 voltes on all three lags.I have replaced the rectafire and when i put the volt metter on the battery and start the bike i am not charging the volts go to 11.05 and then yhe battery goes to 10.89 volts and the bike shut down i need HEIP!Sturges is comming up in augest and the riding season is starting and iam down.can someone please Help me.
Rick

 

[retiredintime]

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Hi oldbiker and welcome to the forum. You will find a lot of good people here more that willing to help you with your problem. You might want to go to the top of the page here and click on "new topic" and creat your own post about your problem so it can easily be seen...

 

[exavid]

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Hi oldbiker, check the red wire and white wire coming out of your rectifier/regulator, these wires are connected together at one end of the main fuse. If you have 13-14V on the red and white wire at that end of the master fuse (it's a fusible link or dogbone fuse in the plastic holder on the starting relay) with the engine running at 2500rpm the charging system is okay. If you don't check the same colored wires at the regulator. If you don't have sharp probes on your meter stick a pin into the wire at the regulator to make contact with the wire and use that to connect to. If there's isn't a charging voltage, ie a voltage a volt or two higher than the battery, your new regulator is kaput. That is based on your measurements of your stator being good.

One thing I do wonder about is that you seem to be getting a bit higher AC voltage from the stator than most do. When you measured the three legs did you measure across two of the stator wire and do it three times across all combinations of the three wires? Also with the engine shut off did you check for resistance of any of the three wires to ground while the stator was disconnected from the bike's electrical system? There are several good descriptions of stator testing if you do a search in the box at the top of the page.

 

[GSMacLean]

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exavid wrote:

One thing I do wonder about is that you seem to be getting a bit higher AC voltage from the stator than most do. When you measured the three legs did you measure across two of the stator wire and do it three times across all combinations of the three wires? Also with the engine shut off did you check for resistance of any of the three wires to ground while the stator was disconnected from the bike's electrical system? There are several good descriptions of stator testing if you do a search in the box at the top of the page.

That's the first thing I thought as well - it should be around 48VAC on each leg, if I remember correctly. Just in case you missed it, your meter should be set to read AC, not DC, and I am pretty sure the 48 VAC is not true RMS (although if you have a meter capable of reading true RMS, I'm sure you know it already).

 

[oldbiker]

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yes i have tryed all that and the stater does not go to ground.i found when i took my battery out and put the v.o.m on it it read 12.48 vdc and it droped to 11.05 vdc as i watched the metter.and the bike had a lot of lights on it when i bought it i have removed alot of them.can you get a stater thats put out a higher reading.i also noticed when i ran the bike the regulator was real hot.do you think that the battery has a short in it .

 

[exavid]

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If the regulator was hot that's a normal operating condition, the regulator is a shunt system. The alternator just puts out maximum power at all times and the regulator dumps part of the current to ground to drop the voltage to the desired 14 volts or so. If the load on the electrical system increases, the shunt or bypass current decreases to keep the voltage up and vice versa. The heat is generated by the current flowing through the regulator, that's why it has fins on it.Of course a failure in the regulator could also cause it to heat up.

Your problem could indeed be caused by a battery with an internal short. Replacing or having the battery tested would be the way I'd go for starters.