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When a rectifier starts to die... it becomes less able to hold back some of the inverted (AC ) signal... and starts to overheat... The Clymer manual has a 4 part test ... (y G two way, and red , yellow two way ) which requires a ohmmeter to sense if the internal diodes are "blocking" the second half of the signal../forums/images/emoticons/mad.gif. I have only actually done this elaborate test once... As you have NOT installed an EC harness... a simpler test is find someone with a similar rect / reg, and switch it into yours for a half hour or so.../forums/images/emoticons/big_grin.gif That being said... I agree with Sailor... the EC harness takes both greens back to the battery , and establishes a clean ground there ... and that is probably better for the poor old Reg ... BUT your PO fiddled around , because your two greens go to ground, NOT ,/forums/images/emoticons/shock.gif as shown in my wiring Diag of your bike , in a sorta loop around to the lights, relays, switches, etc... So If it was my bike ... I would find out where the PO cut the green grounds to ALL those other circuits... lead a large (10/12 Ga )green ground to the Reg Rect from the battery, and tap into that , as many of the green grounding circuits shown on your original ground wiring, as I could find.../forums/images/emoticons/confused.gif Lead them into the false tank area, and solder them into the new ground wire ................. Chassis ground on a Bike is very poor ,in the long run... they tend to corrode from mixed metals... and eventually... resistance, and heat .....................................one to check is the big ground strap under and behind the left side engine triangle frame mount- it is often corroded ..... a simpler temporary test ... would be to just lead a jumper cable to your battery and to the (stripped) green wires coming off the Rect / reg... and see if that cuts down on the heat ............. SilverDave /forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gif
When a rectifier starts to die... it becomes less able to hold back some of the inverted (AC ) signal... and starts to overheat... The Clymer manual has a 4 part test ... (y G two way, and red , yellow two way ) which requires a ohmmeter to sense if the internal diodes are "blocking" the second half of the signal../forums/images/emoticons/mad.gif. I have only actually done this elaborate test once... As you have NOT installed an EC harness... a simpler test is find someone with a similar rect / reg, and switch it into yours for a half hour or so.../forums/images/emoticons/big_grin.gif That being said... I agree with Sailor... the EC harness takes both greens back to the battery , and establishes a clean ground there ... and that is probably better for the poor old Reg ... BUT your PO fiddled around , because your two greens go to ground, NOT ,/forums/images/emoticons/shock.gif as shown in my wiring Diag of your bike , in a sorta loop around to the lights, relays, switches, etc... So If it was my bike ... I would find out where the PO cut the green grounds to ALL those other circuits... lead a large (10/12 Ga )green ground to the Reg Rect from the battery, and tap into that , as many of the green grounding circuits shown on your original ground wiring, as I could find.../forums/images/emoticons/confused.gif Lead them into the false tank area, and solder them into the new ground wire ................. Chassis ground on a Bike is very poor ,in the long run... they tend to corrode from mixed metals... and eventually... resistance, and heat .....................................one to check is the big ground strap under and behind the left side engine triangle frame mount- it is often corroded ..... a simpler temporary test ... would be to just lead a jumper cable to your battery and to the (stripped) green wires coming off the Rect / reg... and see if that cuts down on the heat ............. SilverDave /forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gif