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Removing 84 GL1200 engine. Is it necessary to remove the timing belts and pulleys to remove this engine? Is there enough room to move engine forward and/or disengage the drive splines by pushing back on the drive shaft without timing belts and pulleys removed?

Thanks in advance.
 

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I can think of no reason to remove the timing belts to remove the engine. I think there is a circlip under the rubber boot at the forward end of the driveshaft housing you remove to release the driveshaft. Then after the left frame section is removed the engine comes out to the left...
 

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you dont take off the belts or pulleys, although i did take off the belt covers, that c/circlip may not even be on, the motor could have been pulled beforeand the clip never been put back,
 

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It gives you more room if you remove the belts and pulleys,and you wont gouge or scratch em up. These engine removal how-to articles and videos might be useful:

GL1200 Engine Removal

 

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Thank you all for the input.

I was able to remove the engine with belts & pulleys in place. I had removed the covers previously for belt inspection. F.Y.I., there is no circlip under the rubber boot at the forward end of the drive shaft housing on the 84 GL 1200, so the engine came out very nicely.

One problem though, the long bolt that holds the ground strap in place on the left hand side and goes through the triangular brackets at the top rear of the engine will not come loose, it is "frozen" in place at the threaded end. This didn't pose a problem for removal, but any suggestions short of drilling it out would be appreciated.

As I attempt to loosen the bolt, I can see it twist along its length to where the nut fastens on. It is at this point that the bolt is seized into the block. Even 24 hours of Liquid Wrench soaking it hasn't helped. A little heat from a propane torch wasn't enough.

I'm chasing what the Honda shop thinks is a bad main bearing noise. Has anyone priced out the cost of parts for a rebuild in Canadian dollars?
 

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glad you got it out ok, what is why your taking the motor out, you may want to give a few whacks with an impact wrench, its a handy tool to have in your box
 

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Well, I tried that with an electric impact, it just twists the bolt. (It's about a foot long bolt.) I'm thinking of a long wrench on the bolt head, and an assistant with a big hammer on the other end. I don't think the head of this bolt is too pretty anymore, so I'll have to replace it. I just don't want to harm the block.
 

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I'm curious about the noise. I've got a noise when the engine is cold and I let the clutch out to take off and this loud not a squeal, but a metalic rumble. Would the tesioners for the timing belts do something like that. After reaching op temp. I don't hear it. If I let the clutch out easy, ya know, milk it along, and take off everything is fine. Kinda makes me scratch myself.
 

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Here is a link to another member's video, which I'm afraid sounds a lot like mine. I recently sent him an email, but he hasn't been able to do any more work on it.

The noise of mine occurred while riding, after a couple hours. I went directly to the shop, they thought main bearings! The bike still starts and runs great, but the noise has been there since. It's all apart now, but no signs of damage internally yet. I only have the block to split next!

another member's video,(hope this works):
http://s464.photobucket.com/albums/rr8/wingslow/?action=view&current=Wingknock.<SPAN STYLE=
 

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i watched that video a couple of times, that to me sounds like the hydraulic lifters have got air in them, and doesnt soundlike main or big ends, nor little ends or piston slap
 

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Lifters were my first thought too, shop said no. (Same mechanic there for over 30 years, sold me the bike new in 84.) I just wondered if it is in fact main bearings or connecting rods, why is this engine still running so well? Some small amounts of gray metal grit was in the oil when drained which lead me to think of something rubbing inside, like the head of a bolt spinning around hitting something.

One bolt inside the pulse generator housing was loose, but nothing else so far.

I had bled all the lifters, checked for looseness of parts, checked oil flow. I really don't want to split the cases. I do have to replace the rubber boot on the drive shaft and a few other things. The clutch slave housing has quite a bit of crud in it too, but was still operating smoothly. So engine removal isn't a total waste of time. Only 262,000 Km. on it, it's too early to quit now.
 
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