[rpeters549]

So I am mid-teardown and decided to pull the rear/shaft and u-joint just because, well, I want to. It's never been done. Anyway, the u-joint almost fits out between the output shaft and swing arm. My swing arm bearings are fine so I do not want to pull it. Can I, using a 17mm hex, remove the right side swingarm bolt and pry gently on the swingarm to move it enough to get the u-joint out? I do not have the tool to remove the special locknutted side.
The u-joint feels fine from what I can tell, but with over 97k on the bike I thought it good to maybe drop it at a driveline shop for a disassemble and re-grease.
Thanks.

 

[Ken Bergen]

The cups in the yokes of your universal joint are staked on place and the assembly is considered a throwaway part.

If there's no play in the cross and it swivels without binding it'll likely last many more years.

I doubt you'll find a shop that will take it apart and re-grease it, they'll just check it as I said above and if it doesn't pass the checks recommend you get a new one.

 

[rpeters549]

With it in there I did not notice any play or noise. Maybe I will just leave it as is and not take it all the way out then. I show no symptomology of a problem.
Thanks.

 

[DriverRider]

The only true way to check a U joint is to remove it from the application and as Ken wrote check it for looseness or binding moving it throughout its range. You can also pry the dust seal of the cap back and check for water or rust particles.

A staked joint can be replaced and they usually use the circlips mounted on the inside of the cap of the cross. It takes a lot of force to remove a staked joint and you would not want to reuse it. Think air hammer here folks. I used to have to replace double cardan type joints with the center pecker bearing for Lincoln cars, they were a PIA. A total of 4 crosses in the auto driveshaft.

And if the replacement cross was an aftermarket Chinese one for the Honda, leave it alone. You will be replacing it in another 20k miles if used.

 

[rpeters549]

OK. So maybe I will pull it all the way out and be sure of it. Can I remove just the one side of the swingarm and gently pry some room (probably that side of the swingarm up and/or backwards) to get it out or will I damage something? I would think 1/4 inch is what I need as it is hanging up on an ear of the yoke on the output shaft.

 

[77Pinto]

The u-joint on my 88 came right out, WITHOUT removing or even loosening the swing arm. I did need to unbolt the lower shock mounts and let the arm droop to get the old one out. To get the new one in (larger one) I had to gently push the swing arm down so it flexes the heat sheild for the exhaust a little. If you replace a small early joint with the larger later one, be sure to get the later boot too.

Bill

 

[rpeters549]

Actually I still have the bolt in the shock on the other side of the bike (habit when removing the wheel. Pull the shock bolt only far enough to get the brake bracket out). Me thinks I should pull it all the way out. Silly, silly me.

As I do not have a spare laying around, and do not want to pay for a new one, let alone wait to get it, I hope this one is fine.

 

[rpeters549]

Well, it aint coming out without doing something to the swingarm. Even with both shocks disconnected fully there is not enough clearance. So, as it was not a problem before I will assume (yup- I know what that means) it is still fine, grease the splines, and re-assemble. Getting the shaft back in the u-joint is going to be fun.

 

[Ericson38]

I think some of the folks that know about the 97+ year model ujoint removal are out riding somewhere. I wonder about this too. I decided to lube all the splines (with moly 60) and button mine back up too, but want to replace the joint at the next tire change. If you button up as is, pull the joint back and get the splines and the transmission output shaft too.

Getting the driveshaft back into the joint went pretty easy for me. Laying down, one hand on the final drive housing, and one at the u joint boot helping with the alignment.

When you removed your lower shock mount, did your rear wheel rest on the ground ? I wonder if getting the bike higher in the air, so thes swing arm will drop more, will do it ??

Charlie

 

[rpeters549]

I already had the wheel off.
Tried putting it together today and the shaft would not engage the u-joint properly. Maybe tomorrow.

 

[Ken Bergen]

Tried putting it together today and the shaft would not engage the u-joint properly. Maybe tomorrow.

I found an easy way but if I told you I'd have to kill you.:ROFL::ROFL::ROFL:

 

[Ericson38]

So, when stabbing the drive shaft into the end of the u joint, laying on the ground, I rotated the housing and slightly raised and lowered (all at the same time) and at the same time I was supporting the free end of the joint with my right hand, until the shaft found the splines. The housing has to be rotated CW/CCW a little and also raised and lowered in elevation, all small movements. Mine took about a minute to line up.

 

[rpeters549]

I am going to tackle this after I take the mutt for his walk. My thought is rt hand wedged in as under the u-joint as possible, lt on the rear. It is not high enough in the air (on the centerstand and about 1" of wood) to lay under it. I am sure it will go, but I think it's one of those things that takes 30 seconds for one guy and 20 minutes for another. I am hoping for about the 1-2 minute range.

 

[rpeters549]

Well, so far y'all must possess some secret ninja skill I do not have. I have spent an hour this morning trying to get that .... thing ... back together. I get the studs of the rear housing to just barely cross through the ears of the swingarm and BAM! Like hitting a brick wall. No further.
I have tried turing what small piece of the u-jont I can reach around the boot, I have inserted the flange in the rear so I can turn the shaft that way and wiggle. Nothing.
What in gehenna am I missing?

 

[rpeters549]

So after I posted that ^ I looked back through the tutorial. I used a screwdriver in the u-joint end, wiggled and pushed it together.
Slipped right in. Guess the extra 1/2" length was what I needed.
Now I am happy and get get this back togethe before my trip next week to Kanita.

 

[us385south]

I yoinked the u joint in my 1500 last year... remove that pivit bolt on the right side of the swig arm and you should be able to get it out. IMMEDAITELY replace the pivot bolt and finger tighten it to keep trash out of the bearing. When you are done checking out the UJ reverse the process to re-install.

T

 

[Ericson38]

I yoinked the u joint in my 1500 last year... remove that pivit bolt on the right side of the swig arm and you should be able to get it out. IMMEDAITELY replace the pivot bolt and finger tighten it to keep trash out of the bearing. When you are done checking out the UJ reverse the process to re-install.

T

Thanks....what year do you have ? Later ones have larger diameter ujoints, I believe (97and up ?).

 

[rpeters549]

I know mine would not fit without doing any removal of the swingarm. What you mentioned, removing the right swingarm pivot bolt, was what I wondered if I could do from the get go. Now I know.
Thanky.

 

[us385south]

Mines a 96... but I think Honda retrograded the part number... just try it... it should work. You will have to roll that thing around a bit to find the exit point...

Keep trash out of that pivot joint at all costs...

The joints are (gladly) available from Honda once again... but I have a new one if you have trouble finding one.

T

 

[rpeters549]

I did not see any reason to replace it. I had no noise, no symtomology at all. I was just 3/4 the way there in the annual grease job and figured I would check it out.
Thanks though!